brake fluid

[OreoGaborio]

I drop from 4th to 3rd, and in pics of most guys, their front ends are always slammed coming into the bowl.

I think Loudon is as good as any for evaluating brakes (but I think it's being wayyy overthought), as there's lots of trail braking and not many long periods with no brakes at all.

Yeah I was gonna say... I dunno about the others, but I brake pretty damn hard coming into 1, into 3, into 6, into 9 (yes, 9) and into 11. Granted it's not a very long time period of braking, but I'm near-max braking in each of those sections for at least a short while.

But maybe I'm not as fast as I thought.

[Doc]

Explain the 9 thing. Do you not let off until after the tree house? (Serious question).

[Stromper]

If you had brake fade then caliper rebuild is in order making sure nothing but the highest temp fluid is totally filling the the caliper. The part that gets hot.

You also after a fade session try spinning the front wheel and see if ther is significant brake drag.

I dont know but I assume that long life is not on the race fluid radar

Primer for the rest of us

http://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/brakefluids.html

[Paul_E_D]

Explain the 9 thing. Do you not let off until after the tree house? (Serious question).

You should be passing the tree house and hitting the ripple bumps at full throttle...

[OreoGaborio]

WFO from 6 to past the tree hizzy, especially on a lw or ulw bike.

[Marc R]

I'm thinking about installing a stainless steel cable for the front, my first time. Not sure I understand this part (abbreviated quote)...

Don't switch out to speed bleeders with a disconnected or empty line.
...
Then drain fluid from lines and install your new lines.
...
Once you're fully bled system then button up the reservoir cap and switch out to the speed bleeders ...

"Fully bled" I'm guessing means the brake line is filled with new brake fluid (it is not empty when installing the speed bleeder), right?

Couple more questions, once we clear up this first question.

Thanks.

[scubasteveRR]

Marc, that is correct. You need to have the system full of brake fluid before putting the speed bleeders on. regular air doesn't create enough pressure to activate the valve on the speedbleeders.

if you're not changing the brake lines or totally draining your system you can just put the speedbleeders on and pump away while adding fluid in the resiviour so you don't suck in air

[Marc R]

Thanks Steve!

Lets say I replaced the cable. The new cable is dry (full of air) and using the conventional bleeder. I imagine the sequence [open bleeder][pull brake][close bleeder][release brake] would be repeated 1000+ times (fool's errand). This is where the mityvac keeps you sane: [build up 20+ lbs pressure][open bleeder][add brake fluid, preventing air entering the master].

Just looking to confirm if I understand the hows/whys.

--Marc

[DuncanMoto]

More to the point... Your master is now full of air too.

[CBR929RE]

pull brake lever before opening the bleeder. you're only gonna have the bleeder open for a second cause the lever will go back to the bar. quickly close the bleeder so you don't suck air back in. ideally close the bleeder before the lever hits the bar so that you're keeping pressure.

[nhbubba]

Can't you just start with a gravity bleed?