'01 f-150 2wd suspension

[breakdirt916]

truck needs shocks/ball joints/upper control arms anyways...can those be upgraded over stock?

waste of money?

what are the price points of each improvement?

Want: more "fun" driving exit ramps, weaving around freeways, etc. I've enjoyed driving stock height 2wd '01 F150 vs. the 7.5" lifted F-150 I had before...but it is a truck. And it's an '01.

So maybe "stock is best"...but it's a Ford, so stock can suck

[Tekime]

Can't answer this yet but thinking the exact same thing with my '99 F150 XLT. Before I dump money into that I'm getting the frame checked over, but I don't see a slight upgrade as a waste of money if I'll be driving it for a few years.

Right now feels like I'm driving a bouncy house down the road. Sounds like Bilstein and KYB have some solid parts. f150forum.com and fordf150.net have a lot of info

[loudbeard]

Would you consider lowering it? Bonus is bikes are easier to load in the back.

[Tekime]

$50 for a decent stabilizer, here's the 2WD version:

Steering Stabilizer [87348.20] | Rough Country Suspension Systems(R)

Sounds like Fox has some good rebuildable shocks too.

[breakdirt916]

yup been reading on the holy forums

seems like Fox is definitely well reviewed

Does Anyone Run Fox Racing Shocks? - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans

shocks - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans

amazon has the matching shock for $129

just trying to figure out how much it's worth it over a $60 monroe/kyb for a 95% street truck that hauls dirt bikes into the desert

@pinned - after owning a 2wd truck lifted 7.5", I'm weary on height adjustments - it seems to introduce $2,000 services due to premature wear on parts (upper control arms, bushings, tie rods, & especially tires!).

also some of desert can not be traversed without ground clearance...yeah yeah, I know it's like 4wd in new england (do it 3-4x/year...oh I *need 4wd!!)

[loudbeard]

I mentioned lowering because you said you want to rail on ramps. Only way to really do that is to drop it a bit, larger wheels, smaller and stiffer sidewall, and that's just the basics. I can understand being a weary of height adjustments given that you came from a 7.5" lift, just understand, that is *a lot* of lift and it takes *a lot* of parts and money to make that work right. If you want a full break down of why that was shit, and why lowering it a couple of inches is really no big deal, I'll be happy to give you a detailed explanation; I've built a number of Jeeps and have designed 2 suspensions completely from the ground up. When you get to the extreme side of suspension work, you go right down the rabbit hole with parts in a hurry. Just a basic drop, not too bad.

[breakdirt916]

hmm...I did greatly enjoy how much stock height vs. lift was to drive...maybe go a couple inches more to keep the fun going

googling now...shackles seem the way in the rear...but I'm guessing different shocks/springs in the front

easy bike loading is a huge plus...especially if I can walk alongside the truck as it's going in

[cdovego]

especially if I can walk alongside the truck as it's going in

It's the best.

[loudbeard]

The most bang for your buck on that truck is going to be a 2/4" drop kit and a set of 18" wheels. There isn't a lot to be concerned with on lower the rear (at that amount of drop) other than clearance and a good shock. The biggest thing to be concerned with is doing the front properly or it will ride like shit. Need to do the drop spindles and a proper shock.

Edit: Obviously do the ball joints, rod ends, and leaf spring bushings. This is step 1. I haven't looked to see if any HD ends are available for your truck, just go on MOOG's website and order everything they have for your truck.

Also, if you're going to do the lowering kit...and I can't stress this enough...do everything all at once. I'm assuming you're having a shop install. The labor will be much cheaper if you have them install the lift while they're doing the BJ's, ends, and bushings. Much cheaper.

[breakdirt916]

so my guess is the "proper shock" also has its optimal usable range at the lowered height?

I was thinking fox

and 18" wheels just allow me to run a lower profile/stiffer sidewall tire - correct? if so - this will wait...the tires that came with the truck were under recall...so I got two free ($360 worth of tires!)...then bought 2 to match, so now I have 4 BF Goodrich Commercial T/A (= long life!!) brand new tires

[typeone]

+1 for lowering it 2/4. correct on proper shock for drop. Fox is overkill for this application (to me). any other quality shock should do. steer clear of anything Pro Comp. Rancho can be OK sometimes but rust fast. i've had great luck with Bilstein in the past.

EDIT: think i was running shorty Monroe's up front on my dropped Canyon, reg run of the mill shock but worked fine.

[loudbeard]

Most of the drip spindles require an 18" wheel for clearance. This is one of the things that will try and steer you to cheaping out.

[jhawley]

How much do you love this 16 year old truck to start throwing crazy money at it?

[breakdirt916]

^^a lot!

it's a CNG (compressed natural gas) truck which consistently fuels ~$1.99/gallon irrespective of gasoline prices...it also gains me carpool access solo, which is huge in traffic-crazy socal...it's also an extended cab XLT w' power windows/locks (most CNG trucks are reg cab/manual everything)

Plus ignorance is bliss...the less I know how awesome a 2017 F150 feels like/drives, the less likely I'll take a house loan to buy it. Bought this cash, can likely re-sell for buying price because it's depreciated to it's (near) bottom price. Don't care about 14mpg. The new ones aren't carpool lane eligible anyways.

[R7]

Having just been given a 2017 f150 2wd for work, I can tell you it's typical ford and handles like ass. No need to take out that house loan.

[Tekime]

For the price of a new F150 that'll be one beefy loan.

[RandyO]

house loan to buy it.

I hear ya, a new truck today costs more than double what I paid for my house

[number9]

^^a lot!

it's a CNG (compressed natural gas) truck which consistently fuels ~$1.99/gallon irrespective of gasoline prices...it also gains me carpool access solo, which is huge in traffic-crazy socal...it's also an extended cab XLT w' power windows/locks (most CNG trucks are reg cab/manual everything)

LPG, which is Liquified Petroleum Gas aka Autogas, is widely available in Australia for a huge variety of cars. It's a shame it hasn't caught on here...

The only time I see CNG vehicles around here are buses and the like.

[jhawley]

^^a lot!

it's a CNG (compressed natural gas) truck which consistently fuels ~$1.99/gallon irrespective of gasoline prices...it also gains me carpool access solo, which is huge in traffic-crazy socal...it's also an extended cab XLT w' power windows/locks (most CNG trucks are reg cab/manual everything)

Plus ignorance is bliss...the less I know how awesome a 2017 F150 feels like/drives, the less likely I'll take a house loan to buy it. Bought this cash, can likely re-sell for buying price because it's depreciated to it's (near) bottom price. Don't care about 14mpg. The new ones aren't carpool lane eligible anyways.

didn't realize the socal thing. that must be an awesome middle finger to drive that in the car pool lanes with the hybirds and evs. I'm also assuming its pretty not rusty

[breakdirt916]

fo sho! I also added a magnaflow exhaust to remind them as I pass

Most of the drip spindles require an 18" wheel for clearance. This is one of the things that will try and steer you to cheaping out.

ahh, that may be a deal breaker for me...it's an oddball 7 lug rim (7700/heavy duty F-150)...even if I find some rims it's going to be at least a $1,300 rim + tire package

I will be spending $1,700 for shocks/control arms/ball joints regardless...adding $240 for upgraded shocks seems worth it for an improvement in handling...adding another $1,500ish for rims/tires/drop spindles may not...

decisions decisions...