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we got somewhere between 8-12" of light, powdery snow last night, so I took the XR out for some slippery fun
the rear tire was worn and barely had traction in gravel and pavement, so it was spinning 95% of the time. I had to lean back to get some sort of momentum, then weighted the front wheel as the rear slid side to side
if I do an actual trail ride, I'll need either some sort of track system or serious studs because any slight obstruction from flat ground = stuck
anyone else get out?
My new to me cr125r is sitting in the garage all studded up just waiting for the femur to heal and for the knee to follow. I am very jealous. Looks like a damn good time.
Fitz
Last edited by Fitz; 12-20-09 at 06:09 PM.
It is hard to beat a little XR for semi-serious snow riding. I remember taking my '86 XR600 out on the lake and going sideways for a mile or so at a time. Eventually, the airbox would pack full of snow and the bike would barely run. So, yea, watch for that...
Going sideways for long periods of time in 8-10" of fresh powder will do it. In those conditions, even the mighty 600 did not have enough power to pull 5th gear very well.
My snow bike for this year:
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I can't wait to get screws on mine... so pumped.
nice!
just rear?
and I take it this is only good for deep snow?
I'm trying to figure out how I want to handle winter riding from here on out. Studs like that look like they'll break down at rocky Oxford if there's only an inch of snow out there, but rally studs don't really look like they'd do much of anything on deeper snow or ice, and I'm not going to stud 3 different kinds of tires
PS - nice snorkel
Snow covered, rocky trails, mostly. I had a tire with 10-32 grade 8 button heads that I used on my old KLX250 that worked just fine. Throttle control, and eyeballing the trail conditions is key to longevity with any spiked/studded tire.
If a guy is brutal on the throttle in bare rocks, no spikes/studs will hold up well.
I will run plain old Cold Cutters up front.
This was my KLX tire made with 10-32 x 1" grade 8 button head cap screws and lock nuts:
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I know what you mean, Paul. I had a '96 that was in pristine shape, and all decked out with all of the performance parts. I sold it when I fell for the "4 stroke revolution" and picked up a TE410. Since then I have gone through a lot of bikes, but I always missed my KDX. So, when the opportuity arose to pick up this 2004 for $1200, with a street title, and most of a dual sport kit already in place, I had to jump on it. One ride, and I remembered why I missed the KDX so much! What a great little bike, as long as you are not trying to do 60' doubles.
That's a good deal on a great bike! For me, the street title and DS kit on the KDX I found were important.
BTW - A pipe will net you some good power gains on a KDX, a muffler - not so much. The stock silencer works quite good.
Last edited by gregp; 01-20-10 at 01:36 PM.
Wow. Paul, you *really* should have kept that bike for that price...but you already know that.
You don't happen to have a pipe or a reed cage laying around do you??