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Ok, breakdirt916 has a non-running MX bike, and is using it as an excuse for not attending Stimilon. This thread will cover goading him into doing something about it, and maybe offers of help if we're feeling generous.
To start, we need to know what's wrong with said excuse, er MX bike.
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much thanks for the thread! The crank is binding in the second crankcase I have, so I'm hoping that getting it trued, then re-sealing the cases will fix that (unless they are, in fact, mismatched case halves). And to make sure I don't tweak the crank putting it in, I am waiting on a Tusk crank splitter (to push out the crank) and crank puller (to pull it into the bearing) to seat it properly.
I also have all the transmission bearings on order...and some miscellaneous fasteners. The top end is new, hinson clutch basket is new, and last year I had the suspension serviced and mostly all the frame/suspension/swingarm/wheel/steering head bearings replaced by GMD. If the crank needs to get re-built, I do have a spare (new) connecting rod and bearings (got them for $25 shipped!)
Last edited by breakdirt916; 02-20-11 at 11:40 PM.
I think crank trueing will clear you up. From all my research you don't need 'matched' cases on these motors. (Yams at least don't.)
Do you have someone local you trust truing your crank?
BUY A RUNNING WORKING BIKE!
just sayin
KB
first response ninja edited...too long...
and yep, I got a local machine shop that has been working on bikes for many years...he is even recommended by people from half a state away!
and KB, much thanks...I should have taken your advice when I decided on this bike in the first place
and thx to ebay's occasional vintage bike auction, I did pretty her up for $12 + s&h w' a PC graphics kit
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Last edited by breakdirt916; 02-20-11 at 11:45 PM.
I bet if you list the parts he and Kurlon have bought for their respective bikes, you could fill a factory teams semi truck![]()
LRRS #399
MX #505
Is that a street plate hanging off of that thing? I doubt it, with no lights whatsoever...
I like RM 125's of that era ('98-'99?), with the dual chamber conventional forks, but some critical engine parts seem to break easily (clutch basket, power valve, etc.), and I would probably opt for a YZ if held to the same price/generation.
I do not like the 125's with 5 speed transmissions (later CR's, and YZ's?) for woods riding.
Ha I forgot I told you to get a KX500. LOL funny shit.
I have been where you are at. Dumping cash into something you have good intentions for, and then realizing once in that it was a bad idea. Live and learn.
Part it out and re coup some of your cash and buy a running working bike.
Good luck.
KB
The writing has been on the wall for a long, long time. How many more times is this bike going to tell you "Stop bothering with me, it's a waste of time/money" before you listen?
Seriously, $1500 and you can ride THAT DAY. Then part out that thing for $500 and you are into a good quality sorted reliable dirtbike that actually has some resale value for about a grand.
Penny wise, pound foolish.
2021 KTM Duke 890 R
2020 BMW R1250GS Adventure Exclusive
1982 Honda CB750F Super Sport
no street plate..that's the yellow MA ATV plate
and Kurlon is right about one thing: the sole benefit of an old bike, is you often win used parts on ebay for the original listing price...there's hardly any competition for bidding and I bought a new Hinson clutch basket for less than half of the original price. Replacement connecting rods/bearing kits to rebuild a crank are $25 shipped! That seller will even install it on the crank for $30. $55 for a bottom end rebuild? That's cheaper than the crank bearings & seals! Furthermore, complete engine rebuild gasket kits on ebay for this year bike are $30 shipped or less. It's cheap!
normally, I'd agree with you here Clayton...and yeah, I did learn my lesson...old dirt bikes do indeed suck...
but as for initial bike selection, if you look at my original "what bike should I buy?" thread, 5/7 people told me that bike was this one was the one to get...so I went with the majority ruling.
and as for parting it out, a part-out just isn't what it used to be. Having just parted out my "donor bike", I found that it was grossly inefficient. With the recession keeping the limited play money in people's pockets and the fact that people hardly ride 13 year old bikes anymore, the ebay/craigstlist/forums became a poor place to make your money back. For example, I sold a full FMF Gold midpipe + silencer for $0.99 + s&h. All the plastics sold for $2.00 + s&h, and a factory effex gripper seat for $5 + s&h. If I set a fair bid price (ie. $25 for the seat), they just don't sell unless you keep it listed for several months. And it takes a LONG f'in time to separate out all the parts, take pics, and setup auctions for each item (or collection of items that might sell better as a group). Having done it once before, I'm not sure I have the patience to do it again.
And no offense to the community, but dirt bike buyers are the laziest motherfuckin ebayers in the world! They take forever to pay! One guy even went so far as inactivating his account, just to get out of paying for it, never responded to my emails for 3 weeks, then made a new account and begged me to sell him the item. I told him to go screw and told him he's NOT allowed to bid on any of my auctions ever again. After saying "fine, ok", he sniped my auction and told me he would pay "after he could go to the bank and make a deposit on Tuesday". F THAT! I wasn't sending him shit after he wasted nearly a month of my time, so I made a 2nd chance offer to someone else, got paid immediately, and blocked the first guy from bidding on any more of my auctions. P I T A
And lastly, in favor of fixing instead of parting, a parts bike makes $400 in cash (if you're lucky), but if it runs, it's instantaneously worth $1,000. So if paying $30 to get the crank trued fixes the binding on the crank case (and I already have the crank bearings, new transmission bearings, gaskets, yamabond and crank puller to complete the re-assembly), then BAM! I can enjoy a decked out bike, and can always sell it for $1,000 if I want down the road (which I prob won't, since I know this specific engine inside and out, and ~$250 rebuilds the top end/bottom end/fresh gaskets).
Last edited by breakdirt916; 02-21-11 at 09:22 PM.
well you clearly have done your home work and learned a valueable lesson in the process and seeing you are as far as you are you might as well just spend the coing and get the crank trued.
Now you know! I hope you really do get it running and get to enjoy that thing you certainly have earned it.
KB
ya, I've been inside and out of this motor...I know this ish inside out
I also finally got the crank puller and case splitter, and my buddy is coming this weekend with the tools and lumber to rebuild the mess that I call a workbench in the garage
fresh bench, and carefully sorted disassembly...that's what weekends are made of!
Last edited by breakdirt916; 02-24-11 at 12:11 AM.
is harry's doing the crank truing?
yes sir!
so far he's been pretty friendly and seems to understand what I'm asking to have done...we'll have to see if the quality of his work equally represents his reputation
i think you'll be very happy. rick does good work.