street legal 2-strokes

[number9]

Yours is probably like mine; an AC system with battery and no rectifier, only a regulator. DC items like electric horns and LED lights will not work, I tried very hard to make them work, but they do not. I installed KTM parts for tail, brake, and headlights. I bought a 3rd party pressure switch kit for the rear brake light. And one of those flip up trail mirrors. I bought a baja designs electric horn kit. It has a small nicad battery pack that goes in the airbox to power the electric horn.

Going through the charging issues on my VFR gave me a pretty good idea of what's involved in motorcycle electrics. Do they make lights that run on AC? I know they do in the real world, but I don't know if they make them for bikes. If I wanted to get a R/R (so I could use a DC kit) where would I get one?

Actually I just googled and found this, which is a KTM R/R for $51.24. They also have turn signals on this page, yet mysteriously there are no prices listed. That same page has tail light components too, but some don't have prices listed so maybe they're NLA?

Legally, I am a set of DOT approved tires away from being able to pass inspection here in NH, I think. We do not require blinkers if the bike was not equipped with them from the factory, or some such. And we are not required to have a front brake light switch, only rear.

Your situation is probably much more strict. Therefore you'd need a full kit. You probably do not need a battery though, except for the horn. Everything else can run off the AC bike circuit.

Is it worth it? I say positively yes! Downright required for some of the turkey run type events I wanted to do.

Regarding the key; I almost never let the machine out of my sight. I will probably never use it for commuting or errands. If I did, I'd add a key.

Stupid question, but is it easy to add a key? I didn't think about the tires -- good call.

@#9 - sounds like you have an itch to do it, and half the battle is a street title, so I'd go for it!

not great on freeway, and if you are around Boston I'd recommend as many street parts for those cops as you can...as essentially you are a flying cop magnet...I got pulled over in LBC and the moto cop told me to get the bike off the road for not having turn signals

Well I'm in Somerville so riding to almost any trail would require a freeway stint. Interestingly enough, I was looking at the Crow Hill MX rules and bikes must be trailered in and out.

[nhbubba]

Incandescent bulbs work fine with AC. Your house is full of them. It's the horn that is the only real problem.

I would not bother with a rectifier. The regulator is probably good to go for driving everything you really need (basic lights). Use a battery powered bicycle horn. Or go big and buy the sicass kit like I did. (It's worth noting that I was wrong earlier; the kit I bought is from sicass racing, not baja. It works very well. I dig their stuff. I think most of it is OE KTM stuff just packaged for dopes like me.) My 200 has no problems with the lights I have. The horn kit is simple, light, and enough to fulfil the letter of the law.

Never done the key. My read on the dualsport key kits is that they are little more than an extra inline kill switch. Effectively the same as wiring a 2nd kill switch in line with the one you have already. It would take anyone that knows any better and has a pocket knife 0.0003 seconds to bypass. But honest people honest, all that.

The KTM XC/XC-Ws were never intended to be dualsports. That's why they make the EXC.

That said, I am sure most of the EXC stuff would "bolt right up" to the XC/XC-W. Does the key on the EXC offer any additional security by interlocking with the ignition computer or something?! Damned if I know.

[TripleTaco]

number9, Ive gone through the whole street legal thing with my 200exc. Its now 99% legal, by the book in MA. Ive gotten it inspected the last two seasons as well. It takes some work and money but it can be done, even in MA. Im running running a full DC system off a modified stock 40w stator with a floating ground, LED lights, horn ect...

That all being said, as far as riding on the street I dont think its much fun. A few miles during a turkey run is the most I do. The 200 starts to come on the pipe above 45mph so I try and keep it below that while cruising. The 300 motor might be a little better in that respect. It really depends on where you intend to ride to, how far and the required speed limits.

[nhbubba]

I was cruising at 50-55+ on my 200 @ the Classic last year. Wasn't awesome, but then it was.
Letting a guy with a 500 EXC lead does odd things to the pace. Who knew?!

I agree streeting a 2-stroke "dirt" bike isn't that much fun. There's a novelty factor that is cool for a moment. But wears quick.

[breakdirt916]

ya, when you're that far, then really it's just for around town or to trailer to plated areas (ie. Pachaug)

+1 to nhbubba on the novelty factor for a moment for most...I use it to ride to the gym 3-4x/week, grocery runs, and plated areas near work so it gets used

longer stints are doable...I rode on the pipe 40 miles round trip chasing sport bikes from Rosarito Beach to Puerto Nuevo, and this was well after over a dozen rides on dirt and heading to bike nights on the street...heck I was on the freeway and did a wheelie over 70mph once

just feels like the bike is on the verge of mechanical failure the whole time

[nhbubba]

I think some of us just aren't used to having a 2-stroke. That "it's going to fly apart" sensation is mostly in our heads, I suspect.
My problem is the seat is narrow and hard. The steering is twitchy at speed. The brakes are monster grabby in the woods and underwhelming on the street. And worst of all, the non DOT rated, unbalanced knobbies hop at speed, offer very little traction, and I can almost hear them wearing.

[TripleTaco]

Yeah, my 45mph comment is def conservative. I can do 50-55 "relatively" comfortably, its just right at that point where the noise and vibs start to increase. I could prob help myself out by adding a 2nd rim lock 180deg from the current one on the front tire because right around 50mph the front tire starts to get a nice hop going.

[breakdirt916]

to be honest, my tires are ok...they don't shake and I ride 'em at freeway speeds...not as stable as the FZR, but no hop and no wobble

I am running the moto Z tractionator that typeone suggested, but it was the same w' straight MX knobbies before too

[Kurlon]

It's not hard to balance dirt wheels... roll of large OD solder, wrap it around spokes...

[breakdirt916]

so I went through my automatic ebay searches and re-lit the "DB Snorkel" search for kicks...and one came up this morning!

DB Snorkel 2 Stroke Silencer Muffler | eBay

sold for $100.95

funny...I hadn't seen any of these for sale, ever!

I don't really have a need for it...but if I lived in an area where I was trying to be quiet and sneak around, that would be a good option w' a stock mid pipe (possibly wrapped)

[number9]

Is something like a G2 dirt tamer useful for someone like me, or should I just learn how to fucking ride?

[typeone]

is the bike uncontrollable at light throttle input off idle? if it isn't rocketing away from you, i'd spend more time with the bike first.

the G2 is a great product though.

[Kurlon]

Is your throttle like this? (Shameless stolen from SMJ)

[number9]

is the bike uncontrollable at light throttle input off idle? if it isn't rocketing away from you, i'd spend more time with the bike first.

the G2 is a great product though.

Is your throttle like this? (Shameless stolen from SMJ)

It's not rocketing away, but it's sometimes hard to feather enough throttle to overcome the inertia of the centrifugal clutch without getting the thing near the powerband.

I think that part of the issue is that the clutch (Rekluse EXP 3.0) either needs to be bled or the clutch plates are dragging. With the clutch in and the bike in gear, it's quite a bit harder to push the bike than it is if the bike is in neutral. Also, with the clutch in and the bike in gear, it's quite a bit harder to kick start & when it fires the bike leaps forward a little bit.

So, that might be contributing to my difficulties. Or I might just be a n00b... (also that SMJ picture is awesome)

[nhbubba]

Pull the rekluse, learn the bike without it, then sell it once you realize you aren't racing for fame, fortune and hunnies.

[number9]

Pull the rekluse, learn the bike without it, then sell it once you realize you aren't racing for fame, fortune and hunnies.

Yeah but I kind of like the idea of one to be honest...

[typeone]

i agree with bubba, pull the Rekluse and learn without it.

the situations and terrain you will encounter while learning to ride dirt won't require that technology. it's only adding complexity to your setup right now.

all opinion, of course.

[number9]

i agree with bubba, pull the Rekluse and learn without it.

the situations and terrain you will encounter while learning to ride dirt won't require that technology. it's only adding complexity to your setup right now.

all opinion, of course.

Hmm. I guess I'll price up what it would cost to remove it, unfortunately I didn't get the original setup with it.

[Imbeek]

I've had a bunch of dirt bikes with regular clutches and had a normal amount of skill riding that way. Bought a used bike with a rekluse clutch late last year. I can promise you I won't be removing mine!

No way Jose

[number9]

I've had a bunch of dirt bikes with regular clutches and had a normal amount of skill riding that way. Bought a used bike with a rekluse clutch late last year. I can promise you I won't be removing mine!

No way Jose

Thanks Jose Actually, I should start with the easy stuff. First, bleed the clutch to make sure the line is good. Second, see if the plates are dragging. And third, pull the clutch cover to see what springs are installed. According to Rekluse, there are two types of springs (red and blue) and they can be used in combinations to get the clutch to engage and low, medium and high RPMs. If it's setup right now for anything other than low RPM, I should change it to low RPM and see if I prefer that.

If anything - and I can't fucking believe I'm going to say this - I would buy a cheap 125 instead of trying to mess with the 300.

[breakdirt916]

^^ that sounds good!

definitely sounds like it's not setup properly...almost feels like it's doing more harm than good!

but I am all about adjustments *first* because it's cheap/free...plus good learning opportunity

I always near-stall the YZ when I am in rocky uphill climbs and rpm's so low it's barely running, but it'll chug along, then scream when I hit that happy button/clutch!

since when has street legal 2-strokes not been about the hunnies?

[breakdirt916]

ya hooooooo!!!

my auto-search notified me that this posted this morning:

1992 KDX 2 KDX2 Kick Stand Kawasaki | eBay

$35 shipped for a KDX kick stand!

just need to add a WR swinger and I'll have a more stable way of keeping the bike up!

[number9]

Can anyone recommend an online KTM dealer? I need a fuel hose with a really strange bend in it; I've tried making it out of 1/4" rubber fuel hose but I'm afraid the bend is tight enough to restrict flow.

I know of the big ones like Rocky Mountain but just thought I'd see with whom you guys have experience.

[Kurlon]

I've had damn good luck with RMATV and KTM OEM bits.

Munn Racing is a site sponsor at KTM Talk?

[nhbubba]

AOMC.mx has worked well.

Although as much as I complain about dealer parts counters, my local guy (motorbikes plus) has been pretty good. They seem to stock a lot of the common everyday things like seals, crush washers etc. Entirely unlike the asian brand dealers that seem to stock nothing.