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I feel a little embarassed for not being able to find the answer to this myself - seems like a fairly basic challenge that should have been solved enough times for google to help. But I can't find anything (surprisingly) so I am asking NESR.
Challenge: Like many of you, I have to move my rain wheels back and forth each time I go to the track. The front wheel has expensive rotors on it, so I can't just strap them to the trailer floor by the side of the bike. I don't want to scuff up the wheels needlessly anyway, so strapping them naked to something doesn't work.
Idea in my head (what I googled for unsuccessfully): A foam lined, hard shell case - either for both wheels together, or for one for each wheel. Pretty well insulated so that I can put my wheels in the cases and then not worry about where I put the cases themselves (roof basket, floor of open trailer etc.). Only option I came up with was Pelican cases and custom foam pads I have to cut to size. That just sounds like a thousand dollar project I don't want to take on.
Anyone got any solutions to this very vexing first world problem? Solutions other than "leave them on the front seat, or stash them in the cabin, etc."
Probably a good idea to figure out how to do this. I have read that you can warp rotors by storing them rotors down. I put mine on the carpet in the back of the GTI, rear sprocket carrier side down first, then a bunch of packing paper over/around the rotor, then front wheel down on top of that. After finally getting to use them, I can confirm that a season of transporting them this way has not warped the front rotors.
Glad someone else also thinks this is worth solvingI currently have them going in the cabin (on the seat, carpet, standing up etc. etc.) but interior space is precious and used up very quickly by tools, large dog, sleeping gear, laptop etc.
So I need an outdoor solution!
Blankets. No joke.
Isn't a common method to install extra tire chalks and strap spares in? Spindle-type mount hung like a cloths line, or building a small rack to keep them in.
nedirtriders.com
I have take offs I put down, then I put the spare wheel on the take off. That keeps the rotors/sprockets/etc off the deck. If I need to save space, stack another take off on the spare, put another spare on top of the stack.
Cut some sonotube rings that fit over the rotors. Thinking 12" would fit the front really nicely, maybe 10" for the rear. You could even cut bayonet-mount-style slots in the rings that allow you to twist and lock the tubes into place over the spokes so that one tube can protect both front rotors.
I feel like a spode... I just put them in the back of the truck.......
The older I get the Faster I wuz
Thanks for the ideas guys. Maybe I wasn't clear in my request, looking for outdoor transport ideas - I have an open trailer and a roof basket on the truck.
I need to look up what sonotube is, and the spare take offs sound like a nifty idea.
Last edited by xxaarraa; 07-29-14 at 06:57 PM.
Does the open trailer have any sides at all?
Do you have the floor space to put them down flat?
The rear tire is generally easy as the rotor side can lay flat on the floor or wall. The simple way to protect the rotors of the front is two, 2x4's laid across the tire - building up an area for the rotors to sit safely.
Jim needs to post a pic of his trailer. thats the way I'd go with an open trailer.
in my truck bed the rear wheel goes against the wheel well with the rotor facing in then the front wheels behind it at angle angle so its only touching the rear wheel and side of the bed with the tire keeping the rotors from touching anything. then I gotta get creative with the strap to keep them in place..
LRRS Am #331
Graphic Tailor / Woodcraft / Armour Bodies / Suomy / Cycle Performance Autobody / Shorai / ChickenHawk Racing
No sides Tony, but open floor space, yes - on either side of the front wheel of the bike. I like the idea of the 2x4s - maybe I just have to find a big enough box/case at home depot, put some blankets down in the bottom for the rear wheel, 2x4s, and load the front wheel on top of it and strap them to each other?
I forgot to mention - One unintended advantage of a single sided swingarm is that the front wheel fits perfectly inside the large cavity of the rear wheel without that rotor making contact with anything - rear wheel has no rotor or sprocket on it. Its the top side of the front wheel I have to insulate and between 2x4s and sonotubes, there might be a few solutions! Thanks guys!
I carry mine stacked in the back of the wagon. Bit of cardboard between the wheels to protect the disks.
Oxx has a pretty fly setup. He built a lockable utility box on the front of his open trailer that is sized to fit wheels and tires upright. I think he had dividers to keep the wheels from clanking around. I've been meaning to build something similar. He had tie down hooks on the backside of the box. Way mo' easier to load than my setup.
On an open trailer, you could use Tricky's setup but horizontal, use PVC tubing as spacers to make sure the rotors don't touch anything else...
in my mind, a bolted vertical beam (of your choosing) with a horizontal "axle" onto which you place the wheels a la Tricky, for transport and storage may be the best solution...
Cheers
Q
"Ami blaireau, comme t'es nul au cronos..."
"If your mom's got a schlong, run away, she's not your mom...."
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1994 Yamaha YZ250 CA Street Legal 2-smoke :smoke:
Took me a second to identify the green thing. Nice
This is freaking brilliant!!
I have two of those pingel chocks laying around and can easily set them up on the front of my open trailer on either side of my bike, and then just tie the wheels down. In fact, if I wanted to make it more buttoned up, I could pickup two of those $40 a piece locking front chocks from harbor freight and that way, both wheels will ride along locked on (I'd still tie them down)
Thanks for sharing this!! Pics to follow soon![]()
Last edited by xxaarraa; 07-30-14 at 03:08 PM.
it was completely unnecessary, but it kept the rotors off the ground and allowed me to absolutely bomb around exit ramps without them being thrown around...but the bike was at home, so I thought - why not?
the only issue is cranking down ratchet straps on your rims - may scratch paint...but hopefully you're not tying them down to withstand a tornado
Last edited by breakdirt916; 08-04-14 at 01:45 PM.
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1994 Yamaha YZ250 CA Street Legal 2-smoke :smoke:
like bubba said, i built a storage box on the front of my (5x10) trailer. i stand mine up inside with a take off front in between them. after i pile in chairs, stands, and tool box everything pretty much stays in place.
you could try making a mount similar to turkey mikes but just on the side of the trailer.
personally id need to see your trailer set up to form a more logical opinion
When I start my KTM in the morning, rules are broken. Its inevitable...
01 SV650S (RC51 eater)/07 690SM /03 300EXC/14 XTZ1200
TRACKS:Firebird/NHMS/VIR/Calabogie/California Speedway/NJMP/MMC/NYST/Palmer/Thompson/Club Motorsports
Due to living conditions in the city, I can only afford to store a "minimalist" trailer, that still needs to fold down and stand upright in a tight garage. Otherwise, I wouldn't have sold the nice two bike trailer that Degsy then resold. Anyway, you can see in the photo below that the left side of my current trailer has been modified to transport my bursig stand, right side to hold my Kolpin fuel pack. I did get "floors" welded on to the front, which is where I plan on doing what breakdirt posted a photo of. Only, I'll be mounting two harborfreight locking chocks and "chocking" my spare wheels to them with some soft loops/ratchet straps to secure. Although that would necessitate relocating/adding/welding new tie down points on the side of the trailer, which I can do.
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Last edited by xxaarraa; 08-04-14 at 03:26 PM.
When I start my KTM in the morning, rules are broken. Its inevitable...
01 SV650S (RC51 eater)/07 690SM /03 300EXC/14 XTZ1200
TRACKS:Firebird/NHMS/VIR/Calabogie/California Speedway/NJMP/MMC/NYST/Palmer/Thompson/Club Motorsports
if you do the chocks, remember there a few different kinds:
1.) permanent:
2.) removable:
3.) 3.5" for small street bikes, or dirt bikes:
4.) 6-1/2" for bigger street bikes and cruisers:
since you have a collapsing trailer, I recommend the 6-1/2" removable chocks. When I'm moving someone around, it's nice to be able to pull the chocks out in pinch, so I'd imagine the same convenience is applicable to help you with your storage situation
Last edited by breakdirt916; 08-04-14 at 09:15 PM.
FREE $10 UBER CREDIT W' PROMO CODE --> PON41
1994 Yamaha YZ250 CA Street Legal 2-smoke :smoke: