2006 Daytona Track-day Build

[JettaJayGLS]

Hmm, I hadn't thought of that aspect too much. I'm coming from a motard, where I would just crack it open and embrace the 50hp squirm.

I can always run the conti on there now for my first track day and then swap to a 180 take-off for the second and see how it is. I'll be going pirelli regardless, so I'm sure Kurtz will give me a free tire change to try out both the 190 and a 180 since I'll be buying a new set at the end of the day. Right....right?!

[scottieducati]

He should give you some tires to try too....

[Paul_E_D]

Put a 180 on and forget about that. LOL It's a trackday bike!

[island boyeee]

I should have mentioned I only went 190 because Jim is giving me his takeoffs

The Eibach spring would be too light for you. However, I have two Ohlins springs. The one I'm currently using (115Nm) is a little to stiff; it was put on since I wasn't running a fully linear rear setup. Now that I am, I want to swap back to original 110Nm spring. Not sure about fitting it to a stock shock, but it's certainly the right range spring for your weight.

I switched away from the flux plates because they're only a "good enough, better than nothing" mod until you can afford true linear linkage. They absolutely have their place, and for street riding and mild track riding are probably good enough. Just have to make sure you add a spacer to account for the slight drop. If you haven't read about them, check out the many threads on Triumph675 about them. Quite the rave.

You can use TuneECU for free on the Triumphs, shutting off the valve is as easy as just unchecking the box and reloading the map on the bike.

[RacerXnh10]

Although I think everyone would agree the front is more important, I think you can get the back significantly better than it comes for pennies on the dollar compared to the front. I don't race, and I'm not fast at trackdays, but I've been on the 675 forum for 8 years now and they guys who get the best bang for their buck respring the stock shock, put the flux plate on, and shim the ass up a bit. Like we said, the whole shibang is well under $200.

[Paul_E_D]

I'm just curious, what do you guys feel that does for you/the bike specifically?

[CEO]

Most all 600 guys seem to be on 190's these days at Loudon though

This is not true... you have seen 190 on the tires because they are dunlops which are known for their odd designations.

Roughly...
190 dunlop is equivalent to a 180 other brand
200 dunlop is equivalent to a 190 other brand

[island boyeee]

^ that is what I was eluding to in my earlier post. it's not REALLY a 190

[RacerXnh10]

I'm just curious, what do you guys feel that does for you/the bike specifically?

I was under the impression that the rear end was so progressive to accommodate 2up riding without bottoming out that it was very difficult to get the power on hard while leaned over on any type of bumps.

Unfortunately (strictly in terms of the experiment) I found a hell of a deal on a new Ohlins so I did the shock, correct spring rate, and flux plates all in one shot. The whole package made the back end feel a hell of a lot more stable, even at my intermediate pace. I also don't have the refined feel most of you guys do, so I can't imagine the difference it would've made for a rider capable of 10 seconds a lap faster than me. The downside is I can't point to one specific thing and say that was it.

Another way to look at it is if you decide the Flux plates and resprung shock wasn't the tits and glitter you hoped for you could sell them back to the Triumph forum and be out $50 and a few hours in the garage. Pretty cheap experiment comparatively.

[scottieducati]

Wasn't talking about Dunlops, in fact, I'm pretty sure that brand hasn't been mentioned in this thread.

[CEO]

Wasn't talking about Dunlops, in fact, I'm pretty sure that brand hasn't been mentioned in this thread.

In that case your statement makes even less sense to me. AFAIK, most MW riders are on 180 (other brand) or 180-type (dunlop labeled 190) tires.

[scottieducati]

In that case your statement makes even less sense to me. AFAIK, most MW riders are on 180 or 180-type (dunlop) tires.

Glad to know you're up to speed on what the Bridgestone and Pirelli guys are running. Does Dunlop even have T-shirts in midget sizing?

Brand doesn't matter anyway, neither does what other MW bikes run, the larger tire will add ride height in the rear and slow down steering, both of which the 675 in stock form desperately needs.

[CEO]

Glad to know you're up to speed on what the Bridgestone and Pirelli guys are running.

Are they not on 180s? That's my point... that most riders are on 180 or 180 equivalent on a MW.

My understanding is that while the 190 might add some ride right, squeezing a literbike (190) tire onto a mw rim provides an undesirable profile.

[JettaJayGLS]

My understanding is that while the 190 might add some ride right, squeezing a literbike (190) tire onto a mw rim provides an undesirable profile.

Agreed, but I understand Scotties point on running the 190 with the stock triples.

[loudbeard]

I think we can all agree Jay gives terrible hugs

[JettaJayGLS]

So, if I get the triples, am I no longer supersport legal?

I think we can all agree Jay gives terrible hugs

I've been practicing. Just you wait.

[JettaJayGLS]

So I've done some more research.

It seems the rear linkage plates are a good fix if you LEAVE the stock spring. The better fix is to just get the right spring.

My course of action:
-Attack triples
-Correct rear spring
-Set sag
-Fine tune on track

End of the day, that is ~$800 well spent.

[snwbrdr435]

Can't wait to see this new steed

[JettaJayGLS]

Can't wait to see this new steed

Eh, its pretty ugly as it sits, haha.

[Schramm]

Are they not on 180s? That's my point... that most riders are on 180 or 180 equivalent on a MW.

My understanding is that while the 190 might add some ride right, squeezing a literbike (190) tire onto a mw rim provides an undesirable profile.

I'm running a Bridgestone 190.

It adds more than ride height. It also gives you ungodly amounts of grip at full lean. Back home on our tight tracks we ran 200s on our 5.5" rims, the difference in where and how hard you can power on is unbelievable.

Sorry for de-rail. Was a good read, I didn't know the 675s were so plagued with suspension issues. I always wanted one, they felt so skinny...

[JettaJayGLS]

It adds more than ride height. It also gives you ungodly amounts of grip at full lean.

But, I would argue that full lean angle is reduced with 190s vs 180s.

[Schramm]

But, I would argue that full lean angle is reduced with 190s vs 180s.

How come? Your ride height is higher, so you have more clearance, and with the 200s we found that the side of the tire bulged out more, also adding more lean angle clearange. On a 180 the first hard part I would scrape on my old 600RR was my peg, when on a 200, I was scraping my engine covers first.

[JettaJayGLS]

How come?

The steeper profile of the 180 will lend itself to lean over further while still maintaining traction. As you reach the same lean angle on the less steep 190, your contact patch will start to diminish.

I could be completely wrong. Going off of research and logic.

[Schramm]

The steeper profile of the 180 will lend itself to lean over further while still maintaining traction. As you reach the same lean angle on the less steep 190, your contact patch will start to diminish.

I could be completely wrong. Going off of research and logic.

But because you're squeezing the fatter tire on to a skinny rim, it bulges and creates a larger area for contact on the side of the tire, which is what gives it the ability to drive more. Anyways, I ran a 200 at for Rd 7 last year (leftover tires) and had a real hard time in 12, bumped to a 190 this year, found it easier. Whether that is increase in skill and experience with the track or the tire choice, who knows. Probably a bit of both.

If I still had my Michelin 200s on a spare wheel I could show the difference in tire profile, its noticeable (for only being a 10mm difference, 5mm per side isn't much). The squeeze does make turning less smooth as well, as your profile is a smooth curve.

Most of my knowledge on this subject was from back to back sessions back in 2013, one on Pirelli 180 slicks, and the next on Pirelli 200 slicks. This is just what I noticed. Someone much more experienced could chime in and set us both straight.

[JettaJayGLS]

But because you're squeezing the fatter tire on to a skinny rim, it bulges and creates a larger area for contact on the side of the tire, which is what gives it the ability to drive more. Anyways, I ran a 200 at for Rd 7 last year (leftover tires) and had a real hard time in 12, bumped to a 190 this year, found it easier. Whether that is increase in skill and experience with the track or the tire choice, who knows. Probably a bit of both.

If I still had my Michelin 200s on a spare wheel I could show the difference in tire profile, its noticeable (for only being a 10mm difference, 5mm per side isn't much). The squeeze does make turning less smooth as well, as your profile is a smooth curve.

Most of my knowledge on this subject was from back to back sessions back in 2013, one on Pirelli 180 slicks, and the next on Pirelli 200 slicks. This is just what I noticed. Someone much more experienced could chime in and set us both straight.

So you're saying you like the the 190 more than the 200? If so, I think we are saying the same thing.