Ok, that meets my criteria then, half of new.
Chatted with the guy for a bit, pulled the trigger.
A man of many names...Jay, Gennaro, Gerry, etc.
2 part question for you guys...
Part 1: How do I go about installing this shock? I've done this on dirt bikes in the past using a center stand or hoisting it from above. I don't have anything strong enough to hold a motorcycle from the ceiling and I can't exactly put it on a center stand. I'm thinking I'll need to put jack stands under the rear sets?
Part 2: How do I put the new shock in and keep all my expensive geometry settings? My proposed plan:
-Step 1: measure current height of bike and sag
-Step 2: remove shock
-Step 3: match up the length of the new shock to the old shock
-Step 4: lengthen the shock an equal amount to the ride height spacers currently on the bike, and then remove the height spacers
-Step 5: install new shock
-Step 6: reset sag settings
-Step 7: check height and adjust length of shock as necessary
-Step 8: fail miserably and bring bike back to Kates
This all seems logical to me, but let me know if I'm over looking something. Hopefully I can cross out step 8.
A man of many names...Jay, Gennaro, Gerry, etc.
You're on the right track. Jack stands and measuring for length...
Paul_E_D
I wonder if jimmy's centerstand would work on your bike? That would make rear shock swap easy.
I spoke with Kates. Gonna send him my forks and the shock. Penske drop in kit for the forks, and at least a refresh of the rear, will find out if I need more than that when he gets in.
I was able to mock up the new shock over the weekend. Real simple. I noticed that the shock has "PRS 8760 D09" stamped on it. I did a Google search and it came up as a drag shock...I'm hoping it's just that they use the shock body for multiple applications. I tried calling Penske over the weekend but no answer. Gonna try tomorrow too. It definitely is designed to fit the Daytona, so I think I'm fine.
I also tore into the z1000. Mice everywhere. Still wouldn't start when I cleaned it out, I'm guessing it's bad gas. Sadly the gas cap won't open up. I have some wd40 in there so hopefully that will free the tumblers.
A man of many names...Jay, Gennaro, Gerry, etc.
Mice = nemesis
The amount of mice living in a parts van I stripped was mind blowing. Full masks and gloves for the interior on that one..
Got parts back from PK and put them on. This is actually going to be my first bike ever with proper suspension. Even my old motard was just stock stuff.
I checked a few more things off the list. The front calipers dragged really bad. I could only get like half a rotation. I cleaned all the pistons and flushed the fluid and now I get like 1.5 rotations!
I was spitting out 4 codes:
P0108: Map Sensor Circuit
P0505: Idle Speed Control stepper motor/wiring fault
P1108: Ambient pressure sensor circuit, short circuit to supply or open circuit
P1685: EMS Main Relay Circuit fault
I was able to get EMS main relay circuit fault to go away just by clearing it. I had a spare map sensor so I was able to get that to go away. The MAP and ambient temp sensor looked identical. I tried swapping out the ones I knew worked, but couldn't get it to go away. Guess I'll try ordering a new one
The Idle code is bugging me though. The idle is super rough until it warms up. I played around with the map, and it noticeable is not "following directions" in relation to the idle and the temperature. I did some googling and every one says just to get rid of it and put a manual idle screw. Not sure how I feel about that. I'd prefer to have this work, and then be able to program the idle into the map. Thoughts?
And thoughts on blocking of the secondary air injection? Triumph 675 forum seems to like doing that as well.
And on the z1000...I finally got the gas cap to come off. I also pulled the plugs...which was a god damn nightmare. WHY ARE SPARK PLUGS SO DAMN INACCESSIBLE?! As I suspected, they were a disaster from the bad gas. I only had the 3 take offs from my Daytona to toss in there, so it will be another couple weekends until I try to fire it.
Last edited by JettaJayGLS; 04-03-16 at 03:39 PM.
A man of many names...Jay, Gennaro, Gerry, etc.
not sure if it will help with the idle, but if you've put a new map on, have you done the TPS reset after? I never notice a difference, but I usually see people recommending it.
I did not try it, but it was giving me issues before loading any new maps.Originally Posted by island boyeee
Honestly, I could not figure out how to run any of the tests in tuneecu. I kept on trying to run the idle one, but nothing happens when I clicked it, running or not running.
A man of many names...Jay, Gennaro, Gerry, etc.
Stupid thing was unplugged. I'm an idiot. I am currently CEL free. Reset the TPS and the bike is idling like butter...ya know, if butter were to idle.
I also installed the SAI block-off plates cause why not.
I also got an Arrow muffler off of Ebay, but it doesn't match up with the stock mid-pipe. I think it came off of the full system or something. Gonna have to go to a custom exhaust shop to get it matched up or return it. I should probably avoid a custom exhaust in case I ever need to replace it. Le bummer.
Last edited by JettaJayGLS; 04-16-16 at 03:56 PM.
A man of many names...Jay, Gennaro, Gerry, etc.
This is a sweet bike. Always liked the Daytona 675
your arrow is prob from an 09+. They used a different mid pipe connection. You could just cop one or both ends of the pipes off and get a generic exhaust connector.
I'm likely to have an exhaust shop modify the slip-op to match up with the stock mid-pipe, that way the existing can I have can still be used as a spare.
I wired up my new car for trailer lights, added 2 chocks and a storage box to my trailer, and mounted up my new gopro session to the tail of the bike this weekend as well. You can't tell, but I actually have drilled a hole through the front and rear of the sticky mount, carved out a small channel between the two holes to fit a piece of safety wire, and have ran a piece of safety wire in the channel and through the two hole securing the mount itself to the tail fairing. That all links into the piece of wire running to the quick release clip to the camera and voila.
See you all at Thompson in a few very short days
Last edited by JettaJayGLS; 04-19-16 at 07:48 AM.
A man of many names...Jay, Gennaro, Gerry, etc.
see ya there! I'm doing both days. Come over and say hi, I'll be at the Lo-Riderz section, straight ahead when you come off the bridge.
What group will you be running?
I think I'll play in the black group. Dust off the cobwebs with the racing folk.
A man of many names...Jay, Gennaro, Gerry, etc.
Ballsy. I'll be moping about in blue.
It's all good, I started the beginning of last season in red.
A man of many names...Jay, Gennaro, Gerry, etc.
See you fuckers and your sexy bikes tomorrow.
Jay swap a few laps with the R6?
Yep. I'm down, I've never actually ridden an r6 before...my only fear is that I'll probably want to get rid of my Daytona after riding one.
A man of many names...Jay, Gennaro, Gerry, etc.
Don't do it! lol Actually, I find the R6 motor underwhelming after the 675, but the chassis, that is like cheating.
Paul_E_D
675 motor is crack...
Do either of you have the Attack triples? Pete installed the 31 offsets in mine with forks set in 5mm. I'm hoping to swap back to the Riders Discount recommendation of 29 offset and +5mm before the weekend, felt much better.
Need to get one of those damn castle nut sockets already....
Both Paul and I have the triples. PK put mine in with the #3 insert, and the fork tubes are nearly flush. No idea what Paul is running. But you need to keep in mind the geometry of the rest of the bike, including tire brand and sizes. I run 180 Q3s. If you were to run a 190, I'd expect you would need to raise the front to match. If you had PK perform the full geometry measurement, I'd expect the correct insert to be in there.
I didn't know you needed any tools to remove the triples, but then again I did not install them myself.
Last edited by JettaJayGLS; 04-21-16 at 11:17 AM.
A man of many names...Jay, Gennaro, Gerry, etc.
I initially set it up with recommendations from RD based on their race bike, and rider is same size as myself. Running same tire as them (GPA 190), even have their old shock.
PK set it up (geometry et al) and only changed the inserts and fork height.. so someone's numbers don't completely add up. Granted it's all feel, but still. Talking to TJ at RD, he said what PK put in basically gave the same trail setup, but with a higher front end.
I dunno, something just feels off now. Harder to turn, but doesn't feel any more stable.
The tool is needed to remove the castle/lock nuts on the steering stem. Or for shade tree mechanics like myself, you can just use a hammer and flat head... No setting torque properly though.
The bike is easier handling with the stock triples... until it's on the ground. Well, I mean some people get used to it. I'm still searching for the right settings. There is no magic bullet. Trying some new geometry this season in hopes of stopping the front tire from plowing and shredding when I'm riding hard.
Paul_E_D
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