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Is there any easy way to see what you need do a better job sanding BEFORE painting / wrapping the bodywork?
Mine came out OK - meaning they pass the 100ft or 100mph rule, but there are definitely some random kernels of resin, etc. that I didn't see until the wrap went over them.
As it was, I would sand, think I was done, feel the bodywork for smoothness, wipe/wash off the dust, then find more spots to sand.
Should I sand/prime/ then sand again?
I saw some filler/primer at the store, I'm guessing that would help too....
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LRRS 919
'12 Ducati 1199 Panigale (track) '08 Honda CRF 250 (ice) '02 KTM 520 SX Supermoto (track)
Bondo
Spray with a scratch coat and any low spot fill with glaze And sand high spot.
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Whats the progression your using on sand paper? Also bondo or any other crack filler needs to be sanded fairly aggresivly from my experiance. I did a fair bit of body work last year to my SV, 2nd time was extensive fiberglass repair.
Thin primer coat should show you the imperfections, where you need another round of filler and/or sanding.
But honestly, it's race body work. At some point the give-a-fuck-o-meter hits zero.
I'm curious what a vinyl wrap would look like over somewhat imperfect bodywork.
What is the consensus on types of rattle can paints and clears to use, to avoid unwanted reactions (cracking) when successive coats are added?
I'm not concerned at ALL with a fancy looking finish. Just need to fiberglass all the misdrilled holes made by previous owners of the bike and figure I may as well change the color of my race bodywork while I am at it.
Also, for patching all those holes, seems like the smart way would be to add the fiberglass cloth to the inside of the bodywork and fill the voids after it cures from the outside with resin, right?
I used tractor paint from tractor supply store. It works, so far.
Yes on the patch from the inside. Once the resin starts to harden, try to smooth and form it on the outside with your (gloved) hand. As it thickens it becomes a great filler.
I will probably just mix the resin (for when I lay the cloth) so hot that is fully cured in 5-10 minutes and then I can fill the holes from the outside with another batch of resin. Anytime I've ever tried to form resin (with surfboards) while it is curing has been a sticky spider web disaster.
What mistake are people making with clear coats that they have to sand it off and start over? Is it mixing brands, or types, or not letting coats dry fully, or something else? Seems like I've read enough horror stories that it is kind of common...
You can get guide coat paint and use that: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c2e3rACDImU
Or you can get guide coat powder and use that instead: 3M Dry Guide Coat Applicator Kits 05861 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
Hit up YouTube and search for "Kevin Tetz" and watch his videos. It's focused on cars, not bikes, but it's about the right way to do DIY work.
You need to block sand to knock down highs and feather stuff
Hand or soft sanding won't blend them just go over
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