Help me get more power

[R7]

Originally posted by SVRACER01
tire expansion doesnt mean shit if your speedo is run off the front sprocket

errrr.... that's almost funny

[SVRACER01]

what do you mean almost funny?
speedos that run off the sprocket arent as accurate as one that runs off the front wheel

[OreoGaborio]

Originally posted by SVRACER01
what do you mean almost funny?
speedos that run off the sprocket arent as accurate as one that runs off the front wheel

well THAT statment may be true, but your other one isn't.

[RandyO]

Originally posted by SVRACER01
tire expansion doesnt mean shit if your speedo is run off the front sprocket

? no why does your front sprocket drag on the ground or something and that's what drives your bike? it's connected by chain and rear sprocket to the rear wheel, thats what its' doing is counting revolutons of the rear wheel defacto

[By-Tor]

I don't know why I didn't think of this before, but there could also be a problem with the HTEV valve in the exhaust pipe. You will find it between the head pipe and the pipe going to your exhaust can. You can disconnect the cables and wire the valve in the open position. I'm not too sure which way to wire it to hold it in the open position but I think there is a spring in there that will hold it open if the cables were to break. After doing this, take it for another top end run to see if it helped. I have heard of a couple guys having trouble with the HTEV valve. FYI, if you replace the factory exhaust with a full race system from any manufacturer, you lose the HTEV. Honda claimed that the HTEV is there to produce packpressure to help smooth the engine in the lower RPM range. It works in conjunction with an intake flapper located in the air inlet duct before the filter. The truth is that modern motorcycles have to comply with strict noise regulations that are tested up to a certain RPM so many manufacturers install these devices to "hush" the noise.

[Kham]

Originally posted by By-Tor
I don't know why I didn't think of this before, but there could also be a problem with the HTEV valve in the exhaust pipe. You will find it between the head pipe and the pipe going to your exhaust can. You can disconnect the cables and wire the valve in the open position. I'm not too sure which way to wire it to hold it in the open position but I think there is a spring in there that will hold it open if the cables were to break. After doing this, take it for another top end run to see if it helped. I have heard of a couple guys having trouble with the HTEV valve. FYI, if you replace the factory exhaust with a full race system from any manufacturer, you lose the HTEV. Honda claimed that the HTEV is there to produce packpressure to help smooth the engine in the lower RPM range. It works in conjunction with an intake flapper located in the air inlet duct before the filter. The truth is that modern motorcycles have to comply with strict noise regulations that are tested up to a certain RPM so many manufacturers install these devices to "hush" the noise.

i'v heard this before about zx10.

[ssg]

Originally posted by RandyO
speedos at least 10% off? I hardly think so, as much as 10% off yes, but usually less, and a lot of speedos that are off 10% at say 60-75mph are more accurate at higher speeds cause of tire expansion

Hmm, I just figured it was normal to be about 10-15% or so.
My 929 indicated ~162 and gps'd was ~149. I never got a chance to gps the 954, but I just figured seeing 180+ meant safely 165+.

Either way since bara is speaking indicated mph throughout this story, add me to the list of people that think something is wacky with the machine.

By-tor covered most of the tricky stuff (pair/htev) but I'm wondering if this bike is new to you (@13k) or how long you have owned it for? or is this just the first time you've tried wfo on a highway .
Usually the htev will light an indicator on the dash if there's a problem - although if you got it used there is a chance the previous owner just tossed the OE pipes back on and left the cables disconnected at the servo to the valve - which would not light the indicator in most circumstances.

[bara954]

well, i pulled apart the air filter last night, it looked brand new. i used sompressed air to blow it out and it looked the same at the end of this. i put it all back together (there are a lot of screws holding that air filter cover on) i drove it home this morning, it seemed like there was a difference, but im not sure if the tempature drop had anything to do with it. i was able to open it up for a stretch on the highway. i hit 142 in 4th before traffic required me to slow. that seemed pretty good to me, i was almost at redline in 4th. i can only imagine that with the other two gears i should be able to climb past my previous top speed. im still confused about why i topped out like that. it was 630am so it wasnt that warm, but the bike just had nothing for me in 5th and 6th. i guess ill have to wait to see that bimmer again. im still going to check that htev thing out. i think i know what your talking aboiut. hey by-tor, how far is stamford from norwich (the casinos) my bro is stationed at the sub base in groton and lives in norwich, next time im down there we should meet and if you feel like it you can do some trouble shooting with the bike. i appreciate everyones advice, sounds like i just need to get her back to peak performance. the adventure begins.

oh and i bought the bike in '03 with 2500 miles on it, it was all stock. i put the d&d slip on on, everything else i left alone. ive been pretty fast on the highway before, but i think that was probably my fastest. my brothere has a 929 and hes had that to 165, so i know mine must be capable of more than 152

[Kham]

how is the htev or servo valv going help in top speed? it's there for mid range boost or noise reduction. at full WOT it's fully open already.

[By-Tor]

Originally posted by Kham
how is the htev or servo valv going help in top speed? it's there for mid range boost or noise reduction. at full WOT it's fully open already.

True, after 6000RPM it should be in the full open position, but there have been many cases where the valve becomes stuck in the 1/2 open position. The bushings that the butterfly shaft ride on get hogged out causing the valve to stick.

Bara, Stamford is on the opposite side of the state. Just follow the coast line or I-95 south (actually west, I have no idea why they call it south ) to the little hook on the south western end of CT and you'll find Stamford. About a 1.5 hour ride depending on traffic.

[busa413]

I know I'm a little late on this one, but there is a very easy way to figure out if your bike is messed up or if it was something you were doing. Get it on a dyno. When you go there don't worry about your RWHP numbers at all because they very from dyno to dyno. Just get it up there and see if it pulls to redline and if there are any dips that shouldn't be on there (Most bikes have some dips that are common to that powerplant though, like the infamous yamaha 7K dip). When you are doing a horsepower only run it should be measured in wheel speed not RPM's, so you might want to ask if they can do the RPM's check but then again it would be nice to see what your bike can spin the wheel to (Not that i'ts 100% acurate because it is going to be different when you are pushing a wall of air). As long as your bike pulls to where it should hit the rev limiter and their are no dips in your torque curve that shouldn't be there I would say you have nothing wrong with your bike.

How does it feel when you go to redline in other gears? If it feels strong then I would say you don't have a problem.

Now there are only a couple of things that will be different from running to redline in lower gears to running to redline in the top gears that could hurt performance. The frist being the transmission which if there was something wrong you would feel it. The second is aerodynamics, which is what I'm thinking was the problem in this situation. When you are moving above 100 - 120 mph the wind is murder on a bike. I've done a lot of roll-on races with people on bikes and lost several times because I forgot to get down. There is so much going on when you are going those speeds that you might have forgotten to get down as far as you could, and this can cost you a lot of speed up top. Did you have a back pack on? If so that would be your problem right there. I don't know what the CBR954 tops out at, but remember whatever the magazine articles say it does subtract some of that because those are in perfect conditions and with a magazine bike not a show room bike(ever notice the magazine bikes usually dyno higher than the average bike does....hmmm...they get them straight from the factory..lol). O.k. so sya your bike tops out around 170 in the magazines (which I'm thinking it would) subtract a little of that and say in the area you are in say it's evern 165-167. Now add in the fact that you didn't have full leathers on and your clothes are whipping around creating more drag subtract more top speed. Now say that you didn't get in a full tuck, even if you think you were your head pretty much should have been resting on the gas tank....subtract more. Now you put a D&D slip-on can on your bike, did you tune it for the muffler? If not I would be willing to you have a small power loss, even a tiny one....subtract more. Now, are your tires worn out or new? If they are worn out they will be shorter because of the lost rubber which is pretty much like adding a taller gear sprocket(less teeth) and if your bike might not have the power to pull that high a gear up top (not sure).

O.k., so with all that I guess what I'm trying to say is that there is so much that effects your top speed that it could have been a combination of a lot of little things that added up. I would be willing to bet that there is nothing wrong with your bike(except maybe a small dip in power because of the slip-on). Unless you are doing a top speed run and feel like something is slipping or you are hitting a brick wall, almost like a top speed restriction I wouldn't be worried.


Sorry about the long post...lol.

[ftrain]

Originally posted by bara954
thanks for the help shawn, im gonna check out that site tonight

I have hit the 180 mph limiter on my 954 plenty of times on Rt3. Check yo bike son and be careful. At these speeds it is not a game....

[richw]

knock Sensor ?

knock sensor ??

does a 954 have a knock sensor???

I hope your using high test and perhaps a can of a fine fuel injection nozzle cleaner.

Also bought used who knows what went on inside unless you know the guy.

Last but not least

compression test and while the holes are empty throw in a set of Iridium Spark plugs

Back to basics 1st.

Oh by the way does it
power wheely at 100 the gixxer does

[bara954]

hey everyone. thanks for the suggestions. i thought id update you all. i changed the air filter (despite the fact that the one i had in there looked fine) and gave her an oil change. it was my first oil change i did by myself (i usually get ripped off at the shop). i will not be bringing my bike to my local shop for work anymore, the oil was black and it hadnt been more than 2500 mles since my last change. after a fresh oil and filter change i noticed an immediate improvement. power was back up and i hit 142 in 4th (not even redlining, but close) so i can only assume i should be able to get at least 170+ on the speedo with the other 2 gears. i plan on changing the spark plugs and the rest of the fluids along with my chain and tires soon. basically ill be doing the 16000 mile service myself very soon. after that oil change it seemed like a brand new bike, i dont know if my local dealership just said they did it but didnt or what, but ive lost my faith in them thats for sure. it shifts better and is noticeably more powerful since i did the oil. ill be changing it every 1500 miles due to the fact that i ride hard. thanks for all the pointers about being tucked in far enough. i think that was part of the problem, i had a backpack on and i dont think i let the gears go high enough before shifting. i feel confident ill take that m3 next time.

oh and yes it can pull wheelies off the throttle at 100mph, but honestly what 1000 cant if the riders got the balls.

p.s. i drove the '05 r6 and in my opinion it SUCKED. squirrly handling. no power at all below 8000 rpm's. i know the magazines rave about it, but it was no comparison for my bike on the straights (obviously) or in the corners (surprising).

[busa413]

I don't see how changing your oil would give you more power unless they had the wrong oil in the bike and it was slipping the clutch.

[bara954]

i dont know what those hacks at the dealership did, but that oil was black. i mean black. having dirty oil runnig thru yuor engine/clutch/etc can definetly contribute to performance problems. im not sure if they were runnning motorcycel oil or car oil (whicth also will contribute to performance problems) so it does make sense that having fresh il running thru it will result in better performance, although i will admit i did not expect it to make such a big difference. i also changed the air filter, whicth probaly had something to do with bettered performance also. your suggestions also made sense and i appreciate your feedback. thanks again

[ssg]

Do you really want to know what happened besides old oil?

Take a hacksaw to that old oil filter about 1/2" bottom of the can (screw end) and see how full it is.

[richw]

Sounds like a sunny day at the dealership

[bara954]

all right everyone. those power problems seem to have gone away. after a much needed oil change (ill be doing it myself every 1500 miles from now on, because it was black) and air filter change (didnt seem like it needed it but what the hell) my bike is back to performing again. i originally posted i topped out at 152 and i tested it the other day and hit 165 with room to go, so i guess thats that. thanks to all for your advice