0


possible.Originally posted by Mystery Squid
Actually, Kham, I thought of a way....
Ride the thing in whatever gear you may choose right up to the max rpm allowable, and note what speed that is... Let's assume, that speed is 45mph. This means for every hour of engine operation, you will have covered 45 miles... Thus, if you put it on a stand, put a throttle lock on it, put it in the gear that yielded 45mph at the max allowable rpm, you can calculate how long you need to let the thing run...
![]()
130 miles so far. so 370 miles left. @45 miles/hr divided by 370
370/45~8.2 hrs more or less.
![]()
now i need to find a stand.
"fuckit!"
so what's the result you got? man i dont have time for this.Originally posted by legalspeed
Then don't take anyone's advice, do the research yourself. find out what an aspertite is. Find out why break-in is the last step in the manufacturing process. Figure out what the difference is between an engine builders various piston designs and ring materials and why it is important
In short, learn the science behind what we are talking about. Then all the guess work and mystery will vanish.
This is what I did after reading many of these threads, got sick of guessing who's right and what I should do with my brand new $10,399 bike.
"fuckit!"
but there is nothing wrong with being conservative is there?Originally posted by 02SuperHawkRdr
There was a guy on another board that bought a Ninja 250R a while back. Attached to the tach was the sticker that said not to exceed 4k rpm for the first 500 miles and than 6k rpm from 500-1000 miles. He mailed Kawasaki directly to complain that 4k rpm in 6th on the little Ninja was only 35 mph, which he felt was unsafe. He got a reply from Kawasaki that 5 or 6k rpm would be just fine...which made him happy as he could now do nearly 55mph and at least safely ride in moderate traffic. I also find it interesting that the Honda I just bought said to avoid full throttle and high rpms until 300 miles were on the odometer. No guidelines after 300 miles. Maybe Kawasaki just tries to be very conservative figuring that they leave some room as a safety precaution to keep warranty claims down. After all, we know Kawasakis have been the prefered bikes of squids everywhere for some time.![]()
"to break-in or not to break-in?" that is the question.
as i add more miles to the bike i had 2 hrs thinking the quesiton.
this is for R7,
if it's just a heat cycle then the break-in process would be
1. fire up the engine to normal temp.
2. shut off engine for 1/2hr - 1hr
3. repeat step 1 and 2 for number of times.
this is for GMS1000,
i dont understand why it would be bad to take it easy.
"fuckit!"
heat cycles involve more then that, you want to bring the inerds of your engine(pistons, rings, valves, seals) up to running temp, then vary the load on the engine(vary RPM's) to raise and lower the temp.
Now here's what I really feel. It's your bike do what you want, I have and will follow MFG's instructions to break in, but you ain't me
that's what i've been doing. for someone, like me, who doesn't know much about engine is likely to follow the manual.Originally posted by SEVENSGT
Now here's what I really feel. It's your bike do what you want, I have and will follow MFG's instructions to break in, but you ain't me
it's ok w/ me if experts w/ differing theory wants to prove themselves.
"fuckit!"
fuck the experts it isn't their brand new bike. It's yours, take your time and follow the MFG's directions...