OMG these oil cooler lines are a PITA

[Ericthejet]

1984 Ninja 900 with the stock oil cooler but with aftermarket lines.
I seem to be having a constant "weeping" from the fitting returning oil back into the sump.

These fittings from the sump and back to it have copper gaskets x2.

What's a fella to do to seal these up?

New copper washers?
Teflon tape?
Loc-tite make a product?

Thanks..as I'm getting tired of the burnt oil smell during start up.

[DuncanMoto]

Wirelessly posted (BlackBerry9000/4.6.0.297 Profile/MIDP-2.0 Configuration/CLDC-1.1 VendorID/102)

Hi Temp RTV or Yamabond may work. That what I've used on a Duc.
You just need to be patient enough for the cure time.
Also... 2 crush washers does not sound right. Check the manual and get new crush washers.

[DuncanMoto]

Wirelessly posted (BlackBerry9000/4.6.0.297 Profile/MIDP-2.0 Configuration/CLDC-1.1 VendorID/102)

2 crush washers total meaning 1 per fitting would sound right.
I do have a high temp RTV in stock.

[Cerberus]

1984 Ninja 900 with the stock oil cooler but with aftermarket lines.
I seem to be having a constant "weeping" from the fitting returning oil back into the sump.

These fittings from the sump and back to it have copper gaskets x2.

What's a fella to do to seal these up?

New copper washers?
Teflon tape?
Loc-tite make a product?

Thanks..as I'm getting tired of the burnt oil smell during start up.

i would not use any kind of sealnt as it could get into the oil circuit and starve a bearing somewhere.

2 new copper crush washers would be the right answer
also, there are some companies that make steel washers with a built in rubber washer/sealing ring that would be pretty ideal for this application
the rubber bit is more conformable than the copper
thats what Mercedes (and jaguars with merc trans) uses for their transmission cooler fitting sealing

you can re soften the copper washers and reuse them..
you heat them smokin cherry red and oil quench them to soften
(the opposite of steel)

[stoinkythepig]

you can re soften the copper washers and reuse them..
you heat them smokin cherry red and oil quench them to soften
(the opposite of steel)

[beet]

[Ericthejet]

Thanks everyone.

Re use the copper gaskets I have might be worth a try before I try sealant.

So, red hot then dip in oil?

Synthetic or mineral?

[DuncanMoto]

Thanks everyone.

Re use the copper gaskets I have might be worth a try before I try sealant.

So, red hot then dip in oil?

Synthetic or mineral?

How about just spend the 50 cents and get some noew crush washers?

[Kurlon]

http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/518-EN.pdf can be safely used if you have to resort to a sealer. It'll cure where it's pressed and cut off from air, but stay liquid otherwise so it can't plug up anything in your motor.

That said, new crush washers is the place to start, and I second the euro/chinese style metal/rubber combo crush washers if copper ones don't do the trick. (My first introduction to them was on Chinese pitbike engines, crap castings, low quality machining, you need more than just a copper washer to get a seal.)

[Hammerspur]

steel washers with a built in rubber washer/sealing ring

http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/518-EN.pdf I second the euro/chinese style metal/rubber combo crush washers if copper ones don't do the trick. (My first introduction to them was on Chinese pitbike engines, crap castings, low quality machining, you need more than just a copper washer to get a seal.)

Are these items you guys are speaking of like common 'sealing washers'?

Those are reradily available many places, don't know if their concave shape is an interference but I've used them in fitments where that contour would have been by flattening the curve out in a small hydraulic press I cobbled together.

Judicious hammer application on a suitable surface would probably achieve an intact re-shape too, or maybe a vise.

[joeswamp]

i would not use any kind of sealnt as it could get into the oil circuit and starve a bearing somewhere.

2 new copper crush washers would be the right answer
also, there are some companies that make steel washers with a built in rubber washer/sealing ring that would be pretty ideal for this application
the rubber bit is more conformable than the copper
thats what Mercedes (and jaguars with merc trans) uses for their transmission cooler fitting sealing

you can re soften the copper washers and reuse them..
you heat them smokin cherry red and oil quench them to soften
(the opposite of steel)

This is all very good advice, I'd spring for new washers and avoid sealants if I could.

Just wanted to point out that copper is not quite the opposite of steel with respect to annealing. To anneal steel, you heat it up to cherry red and then let it air cool as slowly as possible -- this yields soft bendable steel. If you plunge the steel in oil the metal structure freezes in place and the steel is hard and brittle.

Copper actually works the exact same way, but the timescales are very different. In order to "freeze" the copper into a hard state, you need to cool it back to room temp in like a nanosecond, which is pretty much impossible without crazy equipment. So you can pretty much cool the copper any way you want and it's annealed.

(Only reason I point this out is that I was confused by it until someone explained it to me ... and I thought it was kind of interesting.)

[Hammerspur]

In order to "freeze" the copper into a hard state, you need to cool it back to room temp in like a nanosecond, which is pretty much impossible without crazy equipment.

Like a tank of liquid nitrogen, CO 2 or some other inert gas maybe.

So you can pretty much cool the copper any way you want and it's annealed.

Good information, THANX!

[Cerberus]

So you can pretty much cool the copper any way you want and it's annealed.

(Only reason I point this out is that I was confused by it until someone explained it to me ... and I thought it was kind of interesting.)

this directly conflicts with what i was taught.. but to be honest, i just don't know for sure.
i'm gonna half to call my uncle the metallurgist now to find out

[Cerberus]

Are these items you guys are speaking of like common 'sealing washers'?

Those are reradily available many places, don't know if their concave shape is an interference but I've used them in fitments where that contour would have been by flattening the curve out in a small hydraulic press I cobbled together.

Judicious hammer application on a suitable surface would probably achieve an intact re-shape too, or maybe a vise.

not referring to the concave washers with one layer of metal and one layer of rubber.
the ones i am talking about have concentric rings of metal and rubber

i'm referring to what are apparently known as Dowerty sealing washers