Poll: Automotive Oil, or Motorcycle-Specific Oil. 4-stroke Only

[B440]

Please don't turn this into an erl debate. I just want to know how many of you out there use a motorcycle oil in your 4-stroke, vs. an automotive oil (i.e. - Supertech, Rotella, Mobil 1 for cars, etc.)

I may be able to get bike-specific oil at a discounted rate in 1-gallon containers. More to follow.

[RandyO]

my bikes have only had motorcycle specific oil at changes (100% dealer service) but I have topped of when low with whatever I have handy which is never motorcycle specific, most often NAPA 15w40 fleet grade but I have done it with 0w-20 energy conserving as well.

been thinking of switching in winter to synthetic Rotela T6 0w-40 if I can find it (5w-40 is everywhere) just for cold starts when I 'm riding when its -25°f

[PhilB]

I try to use motorcycle-specific oil, but don't always succeed.

Whether (or how much) it matters depends on your bike's drivetrain configuration.
For unit-construction bikes in which the same oil handles the engine, transmission, and clutch, it does matter, because the motorcycle-specific oil is designed to handle those multiple duties.
For bikes like mine (Ducati) in which the same oil handles the engine and transmission, but the clutch is dry, it is somewhat less important.
For bikes that have an automotive-style drive train (some BMWs, Moto Guzzis, Harleys), with separate engine, dry clutch, and separate transmission, using automotive oil has no downside.

PhilB

[gamorg02]

what are you classifying rotella T as since it is JASO MA certified?

[TheIglu]

Mobil 1 for synthetic and Pennzoil regular yellow jug for standard. Never had a problem and all the bikes were wet clutch.

To summarize the next 7 pages of this thread:

The ghosts in auto oil will ruin yer clutch plates! Spend your shiny duckets on moto oil before it's too late! Amsoil is made better but they don't test against other oils cause fuck you they are better that's why! BTW, I'm a distributor, you can buy it from me!

[stoinkythepig]

Mobil 1 15W-50 automotive oil, for the most part (I've tired a few other oils, but always go back because I like the way it shifts with Mobil 1), changed at roughly 6000 mile intervals. I've done 103,000 miles, still have the original clutch, and the oil never needs to be topped up between changes. The engine runs like new.

[Tas]

Have been using Rotella T in both bikes. No known issues.

[scubasteveRR]

My Honda has only seen Honda Motorcycle Oil and Honda filters since I bought it... Which reminds me, time to change that shit before the winter.

[Inferno]

My CBR takes 10w40 for "wet clutch". I need to order this stuff online since autozone charges a pretty penny on that. K&N filter, easier to wrench off.

[gamorg02]

My CBR takes 10w40 for "wet clutch". I need to order this stuff online since autozone charges a pretty penny on that. KTM filter, easier to wrench off.

K&N?

[Inferno]

K&N?

Oops, must have dirtbikes on my mind. I would love a KTM...

[B440]

You guys are funny. So far, it's about 50/50. It seems I've got a fair shot at selling moto-oil if cost is reasonable.

[Inferno]

You guys are funny. So far, it's about 50/50. It seems I've got a fair shot at selling moto-oil if cost is reasonable.

That would be awesome! My 900 takes about 4 qts

[R7]

When I first started riding, I used auto oil...like from the same case I would buy for my truck. Never had a single engine issue, but eventually bought into the hype that MC specific oil was what I should be using. Used MC oil for 3-4 years, then stopped tossing waisted money at oil, and went back to auto oil and have been using it ever since. Still, never an issue...well except my Aprilia really sounds like cement mixer with stones banging around in it, but the dealer confirmed my thoughts that it's just a shitty design in the engine, and they all sound like shit after 3k miles.
I use mostly T6 at autozone, but only because it's always on sale and cheap. If the standard Rotella is on sale, I buy that

[RandyO]

what are you classifying rotella T as since it is JASO MA certified?

the T6 in 0w-40 that I am looking for apparently is not at least on the data sheet I have to speak with the Shell Technical Help Desk

http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/GPCDOC...8en%29_TDS.pdf

[gregp]

I use any oil I can find cheap, and change it as often as I can.

[gamorg02]

the T6 in 0w-40 that I am looking for apparently is not at least on the data sheet I have to speak with the Shell Technical Help Desk

http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/GPCDOC...8en%29_TDS.pdf

Good point I meant the dino, although I know tons of folks that swear by the t6 stuff too for bikes.

[RandyO]

Good point I meant the dino, although I know tons of folks that swear by the t6 stuff too for bikes.

the T6 5w-40 I believe is JASO-MA like the dino 15w-40

[tsorfas]

on the 1000 Motul during riding season, Whatever i can find for winter storage.
track bikes whatever i can find and change often

[Wislon]

I use specific M/C oil (Silkolene 10W50) because:
I have a Ducati 996 motor, and if I break it it'll take me a year to pay for fixing it, so I'm paranoid.
Strong recommendation from serious racer friend.
It does shift better of the ones I tried.
I don't mind having to pay a lot for it, and I have to mail-order it; twice a year, I can handle it.
Cheap budget auto oil goes in for the Winter.

[markbvt]

A long time ago I tried Mobil 1 automotive oil (non-energy conserving) in my Bonneville instead of the Mobil 1 20W50 moto oil I usually used, just to see what difference it made. It was the same at first, but by 3000 miles shifting was noticeably rougher than with the moto oil. This makes sense, as the automotive oil doesn't have the anti-shear additives in it to protect against transmission gear mesh.

If I had an old pre-unit Norton or Triumph, I'd probably run automotive full-synth oil in the engine since the oil doesn't also lubricate the transmission. But in modern motorcycles, I think the moto-specific oil makes the most sense. It's engineered for that application and is, simply put, the right tool for the job.

I have been known to top off with Mobil 1 15W50 auto oil though when I've got no moto oil on hand.

--mark

[KB]

I run mc specfic oil. Whats an extra couple bucks really?

[SprintPoser]

A couple of bucks vs. any trouble is worth the cost to me to buy motorcycle-specific. It may have something to do with the fact that motorcycle engines rev up to between 9500 and 16000 rpm. I don't know of any commercially available cars with rev ranges that high.

[e30addict]

Steep cam profiles put more stress on the oil too. M/C stuff tends to have beefier additive packages. My engines definitely earn their keep so the "boutique" oils are worth the piece of mind for me.

[aldend123]

I buy the MC specific oil. Total cost per year extra really isn't enough for me to care, and I can find it on the shelf at my local Autozone. If I had to search for it, or order online, I might be more ready to consider the regular stuff.