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The Shinkos have scared me off because their DS offering is known to have the tread blocks separate from the tire. That and they are known to wear fast.
Meanwhile the PR series of tires have a rep for bing very good on-road AND wearing like iron at the same time.
I'm a cheap mo-fo. Really, very cheap. I even DIY'ed my last tire swap. So the cost of swapping rubber is mitigated somewhat. But I still went for the PR3's. I'd rather be riding than save a few bucks.
I have had the PR3's on my 'strom for about 5k miles now, including a track day and several 'spirited' rides with these jokers. I like the tires a lot.
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Last edited by nhbubba; 04-01-13 at 07:17 PM.
Gino
HAWK GT Racer Expert #929
2012 CCS LRRS ULSB Champion
2012 CCS LRRS P89 Champion
2008 CCS ULSB National Champion
ECKRACING Bridgestone Street & Competition Woodcraft MOTUL On Track Media Pine Motorparts Vanson Leathers
FYI IMHO Many in Adventure bikes have used SHinko 705? there was a lot of delamination and lugs ripping off
I believe that the tires can be really damaged if mounted with excess bead seating pressure greater than 60 PSI
Some monkeys run the tire right up to line pressure which could be 125
The cheaper tire / carcass being weaker and more prone to this abuse
I f she don't pop let her off lube it up try again with some beating in the uncooperative area
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i never set the regulator on my tire machine over 60 psi, which is controlled for bead breaking, clamping and the inflation/bead seating. i can't believe some people would put 100+ psi into tires that seems nuts.
i agree with most of what people have said. i heard the same thing about the 705 issues a few years back but it seems from advrider than they solved that when IIRC switched the 705 to be radial for most the size options. i could be mistaken
as i said before i've run the verge on the vmax and liked them quite a bit. i can lift up the front end with just a throttle twist on wet roads (i didn't mean to) with those tires. I just fitted some advance ones and can update later. Had shinko (711 maybe?) on my harley and they were just fine. i have the podiums on the hawkgt and they seem good as well. they are cheaper, and i imagine for most street riding are perfectly fine. i probably wouldn't use them on a track though as i read similar results that they just weren't as good as the name brands. I ran the tourmaster on the vmax before going to radials and those were very nice. would get 7-8k out of the rear and sticky as hell.
only problem i've seen on some of them the radial runout is a bit more than i would have liked to see. i wouldnt' call myself a very aggressive rider but have no problems pushing the vmax to my comfortable limits on them. at that point its usually a 30 year old chassis thats the issue. i only have 500 miles on the hawk with the podiums so i can update more later if need be.
Good to know...we've gotta get in a ride this season!
If I get them will you teach me how to do that?
From what I'm seeing here, the shinkos would probably be fine but it's probably worth upgrading a bit to the Bridgestones. PR3s seem baller- maybe I'll put them on the next bike.
I ran the Shinko 705's on the KLR, never had a problem. Loved them really.
The Shinko Bias Ply on the front of my Vmax has a lot of run-out, but it sticks well enough.
I'd go PR3's man. They are hugely popular for a reason.
2021 KTM Duke 890 R
2020 BMW R1250GS Adventure Exclusive
1982 Honda CB750F Super Sport
I retract my 'halfway worn out' statement from earlier after I took a closer look. It's more like 3/4 worn out.
What's the difference between a bolt and a screw?
First you screw, then you bolt.
Pilot Road 2 is the mileage tire.
Pilot Road 3 is the all weather tire.
Putting his hands in the air, like he just doesn't care.
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Dave - Motorace - Michelin
-Pete
NEMRR #81 - ECK Racing
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Went with the BT-23s, FYI.
Car tires next time?