Stator Question

[mycirus]

What should the voltage be reading while at idle and when you rev. My buddies 600 F3 was loosing its charge while practicing for about an hour in a parking lot. Came back and charged it up and it reads 12.09 volts at idle and when you rev goes up to 12.25 or so. I am thinking the Stator is BAD but its 400 bucks for a new one so I want to be sure. Actually 250 on Service honda, 400 at dealer, go figure. Also does anyone have one maybe? Part # 31120-mv9-671.



Bruce

[Rice-rocket1]

about 12 volts at idle and you should get about 14.5 volts when rev'd over 3k rpm....

the bike will run on the battery under 3k....

[RandyO]

it's more likely to be the Regulator/Rectifier

RR's in bikes are destine to failure by design, stators very seldom go

[mycirus]

Originally posted by RandyO
it's more likely to be the Regulator/Rectifier

RR's in bikes are destine to failure by design, stators very seldom go

Okay, so how do I go about checking this? I asked about a regulator at Motorsports Int but they pointed me in the Stator direction.

Bruce

[mycirus]

Yup, its the rectifyer. 2 of three legs of it are grounding out. So anyone have one, part number SH633-12.

Bruce

[RandyO]

Originally posted by mycirus
Okay, so how do I go about checking this? I asked about a regulator at Motorsports Int but they pointed me in the Stator direction.

Bruce

prolly cause they want you to buy the more expensive non returnable electrical item first

about the only way the stator can go is either sonething lets go inside like a flywheel bolt loosens up and falls out and chews up the windings or you seriously over heat it and the insulation melts off the wire windings and shorts out

in most bike charging systems because they are permenent magnet (PM) type alternators, the faster they spin the more electricity they make, the RR converts the AC to DC then shunts the excess back to ground and dissapates the energy as heat
the heat sinks just aren't efficient enuf and over time, the semiconductors inside get cooked

mounting a computer cpu fan to the rr heat sink will help

I am waiting for a new RR for my SV right now, second one in 130k

[zombie]

you could go here http://www.cyclewareables.com/pages/...ix_stators.htm and order an electrix unit which is reasonable money and in some cases is better than the oem equipment .
I have used them on some of my older bikes with great results.
It's also simple to install and you just bolt it on and only costs $146..


here's another aftermarket product but I have no experience with them and they are slightly cheaper than the electrix unit at 99bux.
http://www.electrosport.com/electros...cal_honda.html
I would lean towards the electrix unit as they have a really good rep in the industry

[Thorshammer]

Electricity is a odd thing.

Before you buy anything, please test what you have.

First, beg borrow or steal a good fluke meter.

at 5k rpm you should have 60 VAC from each leg of the stator.
if you do have this, then shut the bike off, and test the stator for insulation breakdown, by changing the meter setting to ohms and checking between each leg of the stator and then each leg and ground.

Next, fully charge the battery and have it load checked ( it would suck to buy a reg/rec or stator for a battery problem)

start the bike and check the amperage across the main fuse. you should have 5-9 amps, next, turn on the high beam, ground the fan switch so that the fan runs and step on the brake, at 5k rpm you should still have 2 amps if not, and you have good amperage without load, it is the stator, not the reg rec, this is the biggest mistake made by even experienced technicians.

What is happening is the insulation on the stator has broken down, but it won't show up when you do an ohms check, only if you load the stator, then one leg will not produce the VAC you need and the reg/rec can not rectify more than a 10% difference in stator output. So amperage will go into the toilet when the bike gets loaded (electrically).

E