Any good TEKA tuners in MA/NH?

[schleppy]

I think my next mod for the SV will be a good quality tune. Not so much for the power increase (I know it would be minimal, if anything), but to smooth out the powerband/power delivery.

I would like to have a tuner reflash with a TEKA, rather than go with a Power Commander. I like the idea of a nice clean ecu flash rather than wiring up a piggyback that I've read mixed things about.

Can anyone recommend a local tuner in the MA/NH area?

Thanks all!

-S

[Wishbone]

never been but rob's dyno is all the rave

[OreoGaborio]

mixed things about Power commanders?

me thinks it's all in the tuner.... betcha you'd be blown away w/ what TLRMan can do w/ a Power Commander & his desktop PC.

[Kurlon]

The nice thing about a PC is the fact that you CAN just unplug it and be right back to a bog standard ECU, no reflashing, etc. Do NOT get a PC3 EX though, those are the CA approved models, and to get that approval they lock out tuning at low throttle positions and below 5k RPM, aka useless for the street.

On your bike, you can run an ignition module along with the PC3, so there really isn't much an ECU reflash can do that a PC3 and ignition module can't. Plus you can add a quick shift kit if that's your style.

[Only Readable by DynoJet Corporate]There, I've done my spiel, please hurry up with the sponsorship cheques![/ORDC]

[keeena]

Rob @ RDS has a TEKA box, thats what we used on my TL. I want to say TL is a 16-bit ECM. Not sure if SV 16 or 32. Give him a call.

Never heard bad things about the PC (other than when they break, which I don't think happens often). Reprogram is cheaper. PCIII gives you more fine-tune capability.

[TLRMan]

Rob @ RDS has a TEKA box, thats what we used on my TL. I want to say TL is a 16-bit ECM. Not sure if SV 16 or 32. Give him a call.

Never heard bad things about the PC (other than when they break, which I don't think happens often). Reprogram is cheaper. PCIII gives you more fine-tune capability.

SV is 32 bit

[schleppy]

(other than when they break, which I don't think happens often). Reprogram is cheaper.

There is my two reasons right there. For the cost of just the PC (with no tune) I can get my ECU reflashed (from what I've seen). The ability to fine tune is nice, but only if someone has the time to do it. I don't really have the desire to teach myself SV tuning, and I don't want to have to pay (or bother someone) to retune/tweak my ecu.

Based on my past experience with car tuning/ecus, I'd rather have it flashed once, and forget it. The more the ECU is monkeyed with, the more chances for niggly little issues to crop up.

If anyone thinks I'm totally wrong, please tell me why. I'm very new to moto tuning, and I'd love to hear all sides of it.

Thanks!

[Kurlon]

Mapping a PC dials it in all in one shot, there isn't any fiddling/tuning afterwards. You put it on the dyno, and the software runs the operator through all throttle and rpm points in the map, dialing it in. Most places that sell PCs give package deals for the custom mapping session with the purchase.

As far as PCs breaking... I've seen one bad one out of the box, I've not watched on fail after installation.

[keeena]

With the PCIII you'll be able to tweak settings yourself, as well as get maps from other folks (if they share). Pretty sure you need the Teka if you want to zero your ECM.

But you are right...once its set (PCIII or Teka), there's no real need to dick w/ it unless you mod motor/int/exh.

RDS has the PC-Link, so there isn't any fiddling around to tune it. Exactly like what Kurlon said - bike is just run through a number of pre-defined throttle positions and software automatically sets fuel curve based on A/F.

The FI on my TL is spot-on w/ Teka box tuning - very happy w/ it. It was much quicker than the PC tuning, a bit cheaper too.

[Edwardo]

A bunch of TL owners had issues with Bad PC2s, but I haven't heard anything about PC3s. I have a Yosh box replica that I built, but that's only for the older 16 bit ECUs.

[978chris]

PCIII simply because of what's been stated before:

- just unplug it and you're back to stock - niggly ECU stuff? you aren't stuck with what's been flashed on your chip. just remove PCIII.

- offers more than a simple ecu flash (quickshift etc - heard TC module is coming)

- takes like 15 minutes to install and you're up and running better than stock with just the base map for your bike. most places you buy from will ask you what's on your bike and give you a ballpark map that will be better than the base map that comes from Dynojet.

- there's a shitload of Dynojet authorized tuners all over the place (yes I know that's no guarantee you get a good person).

- again if you get niggly ECU stuff going on, just unplug the thing. back to stock ECU.

I flash ROM chips for certain things at work all day. Judging by the number of failures upgrading firmware stuff, I really try to avoid making a change to any chip on any piece of electronics if at all possible. Try watching the power go out for whatever reason in the middle of a flash. Don't step on any wires.

What is the cost of TEKA tune/flash + new ECU later when it's toast compared to PCIII + tune?

[schleppy]

^ that is a good point. Unplug and it's stock again. Hmm...

[Edwardo]

PCIII simply because of what's been stated before:

- just unplug it and you're back to stock - niggly ECU stuff? you aren't stuck with what's been flashed on your chip. just remove PCIII.

- offers more than a simple ecu flash (quickshift etc - heard TC module is coming)

- takes like 15 minutes to install and you're up and running better than stock with just the base map for your bike. most places you buy from will ask you what's on your bike and give you a ballpark map that will be better than the base map that comes from Dynojet.

- there's a shitload of Dynojet authorized tuners all over the place (yes I know that's no guarantee you get a good person).

- again if you get niggly ECU stuff going on, just unplug the thing. back to stock ECU.

I flash ROM chips for certain things at work all day. Judging by the number of failures upgrading firmware stuff, I really try to avoid making a change to any chip on any piece of electronics if at all possible. Try watching the power go out for whatever reason in the middle of a flash. Don't step on any wires.

What is the cost of TEKA tune/flash + new ECU later when it's toast compared to PCIII + tune?

It doesn't flash the ECU, just adds time to the injector pulses. You change your settings on the box (cylinder, rpm range, duration) then flick the write switch momentarily, and it's saved. Change the settings for the next cylinder etc..., repeat. It's pretty much impossible to mess up. If you want to set it back to stock, just change the duration to zero and rewrite across all cylinders/rpm ranges. No wiring modifications, loose connectors or anything like that. Not that a PC is a bad thing (you definitely DO get better resolution with one), but the Teka/Yosh box tuning has its benefits.

[keeena]

What is the cost of TEKA tune/flash + new ECU later when it's toast compared to PCIII + tune?

Figure ~$200 for Teka, $425 or so for PCIII+Tune. These are just guestimates, but should give ya a general idea between the two.

Don't need to factory in a "new ECM later"...i don't think they don't toast any more often b/c of tuning.

One more point - you can always sell the PCIII if you sell your bike...get some $$ back.

[978chris]

It doesn't flash the ECU, just adds time to the injector pulses. You change your settings on the box (cylinder, rpm range, duration) then flick the write switch momentarily, and it's saved. Change the settings for the next cylinder etc..., repeat. It's pretty much impossible to mess up. If you want to set it back to stock, just change the duration to zero and rewrite across all cylinders/rpm ranges. No wiring modifications, loose connectors or anything like that. Not that a PC is a bad thing (you definitely DO get better resolution with one), but the Teka/Yosh box tuning has its benefits.

That's not so bad then. Still sounds way more complicated.

[TLRMan]

A bunch of TL owners had issues with Bad PC2s, but I haven't heard anything about PC3s. I have a Yosh box replica that I built, but that's only for the older 16 bit ECUs.

The issue wasn't with the PCII's It was with the crank angle sensor not sending a good signal to the PCII...Easily remedied by powercommander if you sent it back..They would by-pass the timing feature, which in my opinion doesn't really make a lot of difference on the TLR..makes about the same power with -5 deg lead versus +5 deg lead.

[SVRACER01]

mixed things about Power commanders?

me thinks it's all in the tuner.... betcha you'd be blown away w/ what TLRMan can do w/ a Power Commander & his desktop PC.

i think what he means is that the PC3 really doesnt do anything for the SV. (power increase) much like the K&N doesnt. it will help smooth things out a *little* but the HP gains (if any) arent really worth the big $$ for the PC3

[schleppy]

^ that is pretty much what made me lean towards the TEKA tune in the first place.

I know the SV won't get a lot of power out of a tune (if any), I really just want the tune to smooth things out a bit. TEKA seems like the cheapest/easiest way to go.