TL-R Mods...

[Stoneman]

Now that I've done the airbox mods and TRE mod (okay, now that MARK did 'em), and got a K&N filter, I'm thinking of taking it a coupla steps further. Here's what I'm thinking...

I already have the Power Commander. But I'm thinking of tossing in the Stage I, Stage III, and the new Stage IV kits. Yup! All THREE kits to compliment the PC II. That oughta be good for some hidden ponies, no?

Secondly, I'm seriously thinking of drilling out the baffles on the RS-3 slip-on's I've got on it. Lose a coupla more pounds, open up the exhaust flow a bit, and BAM! More power, right? Not to mention, people will be able to hear me coming from a mile away. Loud pipes save lives, don't they?

Now, seeing as I'll have all this unharnessed power finally released, I'm thinking of dropping my tire pressures down a bit to help get more rubber to the ground. I'm thinking somewhere in the 15-20 PSI range. Now hold on! I know what you're thinking. But relax, when Cheryl's riding pillion, I'll throw a few extra pounds of air in just to be safe...

Advice, suggestions? I think it's gonna ROCK!

[PinHead]

Fucking thing is going to scream man. But no N.O.S. what the fuck?

[Stoneman]

Originally posted by PinHead
Fucking thing is going to scream man. But no N.O.S. what the fuck?

Oh yeah, forgot that stuff! Nitrous, turbo, and supercharger. Yip, tossing it all in there too!

[Degsy]

DROP a few teeth on the rear??? You mean go up a few teeth on the rear, right?

Jay, don't bother with the stage 1 kit, it doesn't do much.

I would suggest running race gas if you are going to drill out the baffles.

degsy

[Stoneman]

Speaking of which, Degs: Do you have any of those carbon fiber (fibre, to you) muffler bearings? I bet those would sound sweet in the Tiller!

[oreo_n2]

Dude, fuck drilling the baffles, just take a sawzall to the header pipes baby!!!!!

[Stoneman]

I wanna keep it legal....

[Rabid1]

Dood....Don't bother drilling the baffles. The extra 1 hp isn't worth the hassle or the noise. Trust me. If you want to see what kind of difference it will make, we'll take the plastic of your Tiller and throw my full Yosh on it. Believe me you wont be that impressed. The next step is more compression (milled heads) and increased flow (cams).
I have a spare set of ported TLR heads your more than welcome to try em. They are a strait Crevier race-bike replica's and good for 2-5 horse with stock cam's 5-10 with the right ones. Ahter that its pistons and cylinders.
Let me know if your interested, I'm hooked up with a machine shop in Kentucky, he's the guy that did my engine internals.

[snaggle]

While you're at it you better address the oiling problem. You don't want to score the cams!

[GMAN226]

Guy the blinker fluid and the air in the tires needs to be changed if you are going to do all those mods. Also with the extra power you may want to pull back the clip ons for a better riding position. If you want you can use my cable stretcher. Also the power pulses on that V-Twin is too much for the carbon fiber (fibre) muffler bearings you should get the Titanium ones.

Any other questions!?!?!?!?!

Gerard

[snowborder]

go for the helium filled tires!

[Stoneman]

I was thinking nitrogen in the tires. Doesn't expand like air when it gets hot. If there's an increase in POUNDS per square inch, wouldn't that add weight too? Therefor, nitrogen in the tires oughta be good for a coupla pounds worth of weight savings...

[Stoneman]

Originally posted by CBR600GER
Guy the blinker fluid and the air in the tires needs to be changed if you are going to do all those mods. Also with the extra power you may want to pull back the clip ons for a better riding position. If you want you can use my cable stretcher. Also the power pulses on that V-Twin is too much for the carbon fiber (fibre) muffler bearings you should get the Titanium ones.

Any other questions!?!?!?!?!

Gerard

I thought Ti muffler bearings were only for triple exhausts?

[Degsy]

Ah, I can answer that one.

Here's what you need.

1. Good set of left handed, ball-ended allen keys
2. A bag of oval offset spirit level bubbles.
3. A small tin of ready-set glue.
4. A jar of checkerboard paint.

Coat the ti bearings liberally with the ready-set glue, then paint with checkerboard paint, leave to er..er... set for 3 seconds. When you set the bearings into the ganglepin holder, be extra careful to use a 6/45ths oval offset spirit level bubble to ensure snodrod-pivot pump alignment. The snodrod left case bearing housing is a mirror image of the right one, so you will need the left handed allen keys to extract the half moon jubkin fixture when you are aligning the second pipe to the main snodrod case joint. Reassemble and ride off into the sunset.

There ya go, should be easy for you now. Call me if you have any problems 1-800-382-5968

degsy

[Stoneman]

Thanks Degsy! I forgot about the halfmoon jubkin fixture. Now seeing as I'll hafta extract it anyway, would that be a good time to replace it with a magnesium one?

And on the snodrod pivot: Does the bobble linkage connect to the right hand side or the left?

[beet]

or a left handed pipe wrench man i need um

[Half Squid]

With all these hard to find tools , one of you should have a board stretcher? I am building a deck and cut a few pieces short.

While I am here does anyone know how long birtch wood will last outdoors? The customer couldn't afford pressure treated.. I should tell them there is no warranty..

[need4speed]

Hey Half Squid,

Give them a tail light guarantee.

[SEVENSGT]

Originally posted by beet
or a left handed pipe wrench man i need um

I DO I DO, don't laugh I really do, it's a RIGID it just sucks cause growin up wit rightys I use my right to hammer