CRF450 Build/Questions

[Kurlon]

I can confirm most pad style rearstands will grab and lift a narrow dirbike rear end safely, that's how I've been doing maint on my WR250. I haven't tested my front stand yet, but I see no reason it won't work given it fits my CBR250R's narrow setup. When in doubt, go for the cheaper steel based stands instead of the thick walled aluminum ones, you can bend the steel ones as needed.

[JettaJayGLS]

You're kidding right? I got mine off ebay for like $20.

Damn you, making money on me

Honestly, I used a rear stand with the rear spools smutty sold me. And then with the spare sliders he included as well, I put a threaded rod through em and put it on the front for the front stand.

40 for each harbor freight stand, 30 for the sliders, 70 for the belly pan, 5 or so for the hardware to mount everything. Kinda sucks its close to 200 I wouldn't have had to spend last year, but it is what it is, no one said this was going to be cheap.

In other concerns, I mounted the belly pan with 4 hose clamps around the frame. Will this pass tech, or should I throw some safety wire through the loops as well? Perhaps safety wire the actual hose clamps? The thing is real sturdy on there, I'm not worried about it falling off at all, but I know there is always a chance.

Once I get the bike out of my parents house and to my place this week, I'll toss up some pics of my safety wiring for critiquing. I know you guys recommend wiring the brake pad bolts, but the ones on my beringer front are countersunk into the caliper, and I'm not very excited about drilling into such an expensive piece of equipment. Thoughts? And the rear break pad only has one bolt holding it in if I recall correctly, easy enough to wire in. And anyone familiar with CRFs, I wired the transmission oil drain bolt to the engine oil drain bolt, acceptable?

[Kurlon]

Hoseclamps should be fine, they never barked at my hoseclamp pan mounts on my GS at LRRS or USCRA events. As long as your drain bolt wiring is such that both are being pulled tighter, that's fine too.

On the brake caliper pins, do they stick out enough on the other end that you could pinhole them and wire them that way?

[JettaJayGLS]

Hoseclamps should be fine, they never barked at my hoseclamp pan mounts on my GS at LRRS or USCRA events. As long as your drain bolt wiring is such that both are being pulled tighter, that's fine too.

On the brake caliper pins, do they stick out enough on the other end that you could pinhole them and wire them that way?

It's similar to this caliper I found on google, the one bolt on the top right, sure doesn't look like it.

[csmutty]

Damn you, making money on me

The replacement pucks that is

[CEO]

Jay did you use normal hose clamps? I need to go to home depot and get some I guess. But union said he had to special order his or something.

[JettaJayGLS]

Jay did you use normal hose clamps? I need to go to home depot and get some I guess. But union said he had to special order his or something.

Yeah, normal ones fit, but barely. Got them at my local hardware store.

[CEO]

Hmm ok. I'll go for that.

That pin is a tricky one, because there's nothing on the other side with a cotter pin, right?

You could just silicone the head, probably the easiest. You'll have to dig it out each time you change pads.

The other option is to drill through the pin itself and use a cotter pin or wire it to the caliper somewhere... i dunno.

[Kurlon]

Might be worth pulling the pin, getting the dimensions and seeing if Pro-Bolt or others offers a pre-drilled stainless steel replacement? As far as drilling the caliper body for a place to wire to, there is PLENTY of meat to do so, I wouldn't worry about that part.

[JettaJayGLS]

Might be worth pulling the pin, getting the dimensions and seeing if Pro-Bolt or others offers a pre-drilled stainless steel replacement? As far as drilling the caliper body for a place to wire to, there is PLENTY of meat to do so, I wouldn't worry about that part.

That's a good option, looks like silicone for this first weekend though, or I'll check about drilling the back for a cotter pin, but I don't think that is an option on these brakes. I would probably just wire it in line with the caliper mounting bolts before I drilled through the meat of the caliper.

[JettaJayGLS]

So, I went back to my parents house last night to button up some last minute things on the trailer...like lights.

Here are my safety wire jobs and belly pan mounting that I'm questioning. Thoughts? My biggest concern is the oil/tranny drain plugs wired to each other. The Tranny oil drain (in the middle, underneath the bike, is not really being pulled tight, but just kinda pulled in place. Any ideas for this bolt?



And here are some others:



Here is the belly pan, mounted with hose clamps, looks pretty good on there:


And here's the whole kit...and kaboodle:

[csmutty]

Nice! Did you buy the clutch cover? That's a nice cover. Clark has the same one but in red.

[Kurlon]

outer drain wiring is ok, it's being pulled tight. Inner will likely fail as the wire isn't doing anything to impede the bolt backing out in that arrangement.

[csmutty]

outer drain wiring is ok, it's being pulled tight. Inner will likely fail as the wire isn't doing anything to impede the bolt backing out in that arrangement.

I had the same problem with my CRF with the tranny bolt. Did it the same way as he did and passed every time. There really isn't anything to wire it to under there.

[JettaJayGLS]

Nice! Did you buy the clutch cover? That's a nice cover. Clark has the same one but in red.

Came with the bike, holds a bit more oil in there. I dig it.

outer drain wiring is ok, it's being pulled tight. Inner will likely fail as the wire isn't doing anything to impede the bolt backing out in that arrangement.

That's my fear, but I honestly don't know what other option there is to tie it to, without running an extremely long piece of safety wire to the front of the frame.

I had the same problem with my CRF with the tranny bolt. Did it the same way as he did and passed every time. There really isn't anything to wire it to under there.

Hopefully this works for me as well, I don't see the thing backing out, the safety wire, although looks loose in the picture, is kinda an optical illusion as it bends around the bottom of the case. It is actually quite tight on there, I made sure of that.

[Kurlon]

There are likely casting ribs you can drill close by to those bolts?