Dzus fastener types?

[Ductard]

Just repaired my race bodywork. I had the "D-ring" style Dzus fasteners on mine, but I thought the flat-headed self-ejecting might look a bit sleeker on the bike. I can cover up the plate with the vinyl wrap I used to wrap the fairings.

But I notice that not a lot of people have those - is there a reason besides needing to have a screwdriver or something else to turn the non-D-ring type? But since it takes a hex key to remove the bolts near the rearsets, it's not like it's a tool-less operation even with the D-rings...

Sometimes I'd have to yank on the d-rings on my other bike pretty hard (guess they weren't perfectly lined up? )

Makes me wonder if people have problems with the self ejecting types getting stuck...don't want to be in the garage cursing some stuck fasteners if I have to do a quick tweak to the bike between sessions / races.

Thoughts? Any other considerations when buying these things? I had a mix of the rivot type and slide-on type before, if I'm not mistaken, the rods were different length...not sure if they make all different sizes but none of my searches have brought up size options.....

[xxaarraa]

No thoughts on self ejecting type. I remember looking into them, but remember the base plates needed to be riveted on so I didn't go that route.

I never run the screws near the rearsets anyway, or if I do, I convert them to dzus also. If possible, you do want fairing removal to be entirely tool-less.

The thing to keep in mind when ordering dzus is the length - they come in various lengths 12, 14, 17 mm etc. You can shim the longer ones if necessary, but you should get the right length for each of your fairing pieces to make things easier.

On one of my bikes, I have it setup so that you can remove the mid fairing without removing the belly. Pretty handy if you are troubleshooting something in the mid section only (coolant, throttle body, etc.). In that case you want to use the mounting points near the rearsets and just convert them to dzus.

[Ductard]

No thoughts on self ejecting type. I remember looking into them, but remember the base plates needed to be riveted on so I didn't go that route.

I never run the screws near the rearsets anyway, or if I do, I convert them to dzus also. If possible, you do want fairing removal to be entirely tool-less.

The thing to keep in mind when ordering dzus is the length - they come in various lengths 12, 14, 17 mm etc. You can shim the longer ones if necessary, but you should get the right length for each of your fairing pieces to make things easier.

On one of my bikes, I have it setup so that you can remove the mid fairing without removing the belly. Pretty handy if you are troubleshooting something in the mid section only (coolant, throttle body, etc.). In that case you want to use the mounting points near the rearsets and just convert them to dzus.

I do like the idea of going totally tool-less, but I have to use the mounting points near the rearset.

The front of my fairings fit into a lip near the radiator, so that if they stay pulled back they stay locked. If that back mount point isn't used, they might be able to rotate forward, then the next time i'm on a straightaway....whooom! Would not be good to be the guy behind me if that happens.

One of those mounting points is messed up as-is, so I've got to drill and tap it either way.

So how DO you convert a hole into a solid piece of metal into a Dzus mounting point?