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I just bought my first bike, a 2001 R6. I was wondering whats the best brand of oil and oil filter to use for an oil change?
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search for the word oil on this site, and find yourself 100 threads about it.
I have been running straight vegetable oil for years now with noticeable performance gains. There will be naysayers but let me tell you it is awesome. the motor oil racket is trying to screw you by paying 4$ a bottle or more when you can go down to stop and shop and get the good stuff. Best part? no need to buy the filter! just take some cotton balls and pack the filter receiver real tight and cap it off with some duct tape. I get about 10,000mi out of this setup before i have to change it all out again. Give it a shot, what do you have to loose?
An oil thread
Try to find oil without the "economy oil"
You sound young so little money
goto Wamart get a Rotella like 10-30 or 10-40
They may also have the correct filters.
mostly
BE CAREFULL
Glen Beck is John the Baptist
i am a golden spectro fan myself. There's something in there that makes the tranny shift smoother... I noticed it when I switched brands, then went back to golden spectro. Filters, i use the fram stuff or whatever's around.. OEM if that's easy. Change it regularly and you don't have much to worry about.
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woodsy i find it much better to put coffeemate brand coffee filters into the oil filter.
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i am also devolping some sort of hose that screws into where the oil filter would go, and the other end just dumps it back into where you fill the oil, thus taking the filter completly out of the equation.Originally Posted by csmutty
I just put Castrol in the gas. That way the fuel filter does double duty.
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not nearly as coolOriginally Posted by Woodsy
14 posts and maybe 2 helpful posts...
This question is beaten to death all over the net. Different forums different answers.. Amsoil, mobile one etc etc. Synthetic or dino. you should run 10w40 and run a motorcycle oil. The oil should be JASO MA certified (thats the motorcycle cert). I also think th guy up top that said stay away from the economy oil meant to say the "energy conserving" oil (It will say this on theback of the bottle in the circle that has the ratings on it).
Note... Any 40w oil will never show if its energy conserving or not if its a car oil etc or not. People have had good luck with Rotella synthetic oil from walmart. Anything else just ask. Fram oil filters suck! They ahve been proven again and again to be awful at filtering. A great cheap filter are walmart supertech filters.
I know all you considerate individuals never were a
newbie
themselves
Glen Beck is John the Baptist
So, I should have said "red line" so someone could say "waste of money unless you are racing". Someone else will say "mobil 1" so someone else can answer "it will fry your clutch".
Everybody knows (including newbie here by now) that oil threads are a useless waste of time.
There's a company out in japan that sells oil for his bike through a network of distributors here in the US. They are called Yamaha. Use the one they recommend. If you're racing, use the one they mark "Racing". It's not rocket science.
...and anyone looking to save $2 on an oil filter deserves a blown motor. Use the factory one.
I hope you have a filter wrench, the filter on that bike is a bitch to get off as its placed on the side of the engine and its built into the side casing on 3 sides.
Energy-Conserving Oils
Some are concerned that the new "energy-conserving" motor oils may have "friction modifiers" which will cause clutch slippage. Since that is a legitimate concern it is best to use only oils which are NOT "energy-conserving for motorcycles with wet clutches." Read the back of the container. It clearly identifies this. In general, only the very lighter oils, like 10w30, 10w20, 5w20, are energy-conserving. All 5w40, 5w50, 10w40, 15w40, 15w50, and 20w50 oils which I have found are not energy-conserving and can be recommended for general motorcycle use.
It is commonly mis-stated that "SJ and SL oils have friction modifiers which will cause wet clutch slippage." In reality, all oils have friction modifiers, that's how they work. ZDDP itself is a friction modifier. The real issue is to avoid getting the friction so low, with very thin oils containing extra amounts of friction modifiers, that clutches will slip under normal use. Stay away from energy conserving oils and you should be fine, if your clutch is in good working order.
Above copied from VFR site so pass the salt.
This means YOU CAN buy the wrong oil now so the question was actually necessary
I think you little punks all need hazing but ultimately the answer should be definable somewhere in the retort.
I always look for synthetic virgin dino oil but will settle for Castrol 10-40 gtx
Before you go riding be safe and get some genuine foreskin moto gloves, they are the only safe ones.
Fram sells a FEW different quality filters but which is which is hard to determine yes I usually use stock
Lastly I know you are proud and want to right by your new baby but the best thing for both of you is to learn and be careful. The quality of oil will not matter as the wadded up lump swings from the hook and the statey is taking pics of your carcass.
Last edited by richw; 03-05-10 at 07:35 PM.
Glen Beck is John the Baptist