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This might bring up the same thoughts as dino oil vs syn, but here goes. ZX6R with ABS. Per SM no difference bleeding brakes vs non ABS model. Just ABS bike lines are longer. I used one a vacuum pump, starting with the right caliper due to routing, and then the left, then finally the MC bleeder.
Pull the lever on the pump to build vacuum, loosen nipple, close nipple before fluid runs too low or pump runs out of vacuum, add fluid. Repeat until no bubbles.
After that I repeated bleeding by pumping the brake lever a few times, hold lever, loosen nipple, close nipple before fluid runs too low or lever reaches bar, add fluid. No bubbles observed.
Is it necessary to do the manual process after using the pump? I figured pump was most efficient way to remove most fluid and manual way was best to finish the job.
Thanks,
Greg
2013 ZX6R-636
Not related but if you haven't already try speed bleeder valve installed on the caliper. Really love mine. I bled my whole system after rebuilding both front calipers in 10 min.
Four wheels move the body, two wheels move the soul.
Current: 690E. Past: FE250, S1000XR, S1000R, Streefighter S, Monster S2R1000, RC51
To answer your question, I would do one traditional bleed after a vacuum bleed just to be sure.
I haven’t bothered with a manual bleed after the mityvac . So far I haven’t had any issues
2003 ZX7R
1995 916
I've always done a manual bleed after vacuum bleed mostly for peace of mind. The vac bleeders can and will pull air past the threads of the fitting and I make it a point to push even that smallest air bubble out.
What's the difference between a bolt and a screw?
First you screw, then you bolt.
Took a test ride today and so far so good. My first brake bleed. Figure after doing various car, bike and boat tasks time to man up and do my own brake bleed.
2013 ZX6R-636
Did a test ride and all seems good. Thanks for the advice everyone.
2013 ZX6R-636