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Hey guys,
New to the site, I am having an issue with my 1983 Honda nighthawk cb650sc. I just bought the bike and had the starter die on me, I replaced it and went for a drive having the bike die on me I then replaced the battery and tried again same thing dead battery, I then got a new stator and it still did not work, I then bought a new reg rec and it started charging, I took it for a drive just to have it die on me once more, in all my testing i placed my old stator back on to see if it was just the reg rec and nothing, so i put the new one back on and again nothing, now a bought a new reg rec and still nothing and now I cant get the bike to start, the battery is at full charge, 12.94V i put it on the bike and when i turn the key on the charge drops to 10- or 9 V. and when i try to start the bike the battery dies instantly with not enough charge to start going to about 9-8v. what should i do I'm so frustrated right now and can not think straight. Please any help would be great,
I tested the ohms ion everything, stator yellow wires good at .8 ohms and the power and ground wire is at 4.5 ohms is that good? its a field induction stator not a perm mag.
my reg rec has no reading on two wires and on the other other its extremly high does that mean its blown and I need a new one?
JL
Sounds like you may have a bad ground... start checking every ground to make sure they are all clean and tight
https://www.facebook.com/LRRSBT1R #54 EX 2007 SV650 "Work hard. Play harder. Die broke and happy!" Boston Tier 1 Racing Pirelli Tires Woodcraft-CFM Armorbodies Penguin Racing School Vortex Shorai Batteries DP Brakes Riders Discount SIDI Leatt
IIRC the 650 uses an alternator, not a plain stator? If the brushes are worn out it won't charge despite having everything else new.
Since your battery is dropping just by turning the key coupled with the overall age of the bike, I would be looking for shorts in the system. With a fine toothed comb, look over the entire wiring harness for nicks that may cause partial shorts. Look for evidence of animal involvement since mice and chipmunks like to chew on wires sometimes. Disconnect and inspect every electrical connector on the bike and look for evidence of overheating.
If that doesn't reveal anything then leave all the connectors unhooked, reattach the battery, and turn the key on. With the key on, see if your battery is still drooping. If not, one-by-one start reconnecting the harness while watching for the voltage of your battery to drop (start with the key cylinder connections). When you find the connector(s) that cause the voltage drop, try to identify what it controls and report back here.
A rec/reg contains diodes which can't be measured using the OHMs setting on a multimeter. They need to be tested using the diode check feature. If you use the OHMs setting and connect the leads backwards, the diodes will appear as open circuits (no reading).my reg rec has no reading on two wires and on the other other its extremly high does that mean its blown and I need a new one?
"...i would seriously bite somebody right in the balls..." -bump909
His reg/rect isn't quite normal, as he has an alternator setup. (I just looked at the parts fiche and confirmed.) Part of the big voltage drop could be the reg/rec calling for more current and maxing out the feed to the exciter coils in the alternator. Unplug the stator coil assembly, and see if you get the big voltage drop still. If you do you've got a short somewhere else you need to chase.
Replacement brushes: http://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/...NIb25DQjY1MFND
I looked up the fiche after I posted and realized it was an alternator.
OP, here is the wiring diagram for your bike to help you out. While not common, it isn't unheard of to get a brand new bad battery.
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"...i would seriously bite somebody right in the balls..." -bump909
Is the alternator driven by a belt? I know kawasakis are. Those belts strip or break all the time.
Gear driven, the starter clutch is on the same shaft.
started raining but I got some fast tests in, so the major draw is from my low beam head light, it hits 11.5ish and then quickly starts dropping all the way to 9.89v. with the reg rec I got 537 between the blk and white wires, that connect to the stator than 935 on the red- green coming into the reg/rec than 855 on the blk to green and open on the blk to red. there was no extra drop when the reg and stator where placed on.I am possitive the stator is good as I have no conectivity on the yellow wires and 4.5 ohms on the black and white wires.right now I am still not able to start the bike and I am sure its flooded now so going to try again in a few days just recharging the battery.
JL
If you have no connectivity between any of the yellow wires, either your field or charging coils or the brushes are shot.
CHECK
THE
BRUSHES
Seriously. Forget everything you know about bike charging systems, yours uses a badly designed car style alternator that is also rebuildable. The primary failure mode isn't the actual coils, it's the brushes. If they don't make good contact you'll never, ever, ever get the bike to charge no matter how many parts you throw around the problem.
sorry I meant I have no connectivity to ground, and the ohms readings between each yellow wire is below 1 ohm. and the power to ground wire on the the stator reads 4.5 ohms which as far as I've read is normal. I was only able to find two actual ground connections to the bike one at the starter and thats tight and one at the spark ignition coils I checked the main ground wire going to every connector and they look to be good, and the only major draw right now is the head light when I turn the bike on. is it illegal to place a switch on the bike to control when the running light turns on? so that I can control the draw from the battery when starting the bike?
Was the 537 between the blk and white on the alternator side, or regulator side? Alternator side you see 4ohms.