Blue Pipes

[toocrazy2yoo]

So, On this GSX-R-powered 2002 Bandit 1200, the exhaust pipes are stainless. Up high, where they come off the engine, they're blue. Then going down, the blue fades to gold. At the bottom, they're perfect shiny chrome. It doesn't bother me they're blue, it actually matches the blue of the bike, but is it indicative of trouble? They're consistent, that is, they're the same blue and the same proportion across all four pipes. I gotta feeling the exhaust is so damned hot the pipes can't help but be blue.

Am I (as usual) fulla shit, or is all well as long as I don't mind the blue?

Oh, and BTW, the bike runs flawlessly. No sputters, nothing indicating trouble.

[KillBill]

That's normal....manifold pipe is blue due to the temperature that the burning fuel heats it to

[#1 masshole]

you're screwed man, better sell that thing before it blows up!

[palanon]

If it's the stock exhaust and jetting, it sounds like it's running lean. The stock pipes are double walled and usually don't blue like a single wall SS exhaust. Gold from the head to the mid pipe is normal.

It's no biggie. If you want to start the mod addiction, go to Holeshot.com and get a jet kit based on what you want to do. If you want to stay mostly stock, get the stage 1.

Also, go to Maximum-Suzuki.com. Probably the best site for Bandit information.

[toocrazy2yoo]

you're screwed man, better sell that thing before it blows up!

Damn! And I just took the sweetest little ride on it, too. A hundred miles. Busy day. 500 miles to get to Virginia from Massachusetts, and 100 from Dulles to the baby Blue Ridge and back on the bike. I was as one with it.

Sorry, (M)asshole! I ain't sellin'!

[palanon]

Oh, yeah! I remember you!

Fun bike isn't it? Sometimes it's hard not to let my inner hooligan out when I ride mine.

[#1 masshole]

Damn! And I just took the sweetest little ride on it, too. A hundred miles. Busy day. 500 miles to get to Virginia from Massachusetts, and 100 from Dulles to the baby Blue Ridge and back on the bike. I as at one with it.

Sorry, (M)asshole! I ain't sellin'!

dammit! well it was worth a try.

On my K5 1K the titanium headers did the same thing over time.

[toocrazy2yoo]

dammit! well it was worth a try.

On my K5 1K the titanium headers did the same thing over time.

Titanium headers? Jeez, last time I bought a bike, titanium was only found in NAVAIR. In effect, for motorcycles, unobtanium.

What must THAT have cost?

[#1 masshole]

it was oem. light as hell too!
I tried selling it but no takers. I should just melt it down for cash.

[Slyder]

Titanium headers? Jeez, last time I bought a bike, titanium was only found in NAVAIR. In effect, for motorcycles, unobtanium.

What must THAT have cost?

Not toooooo much more than stainless. I have a slip-on for my bike, and the mid pipe is Ti. It's got a lot of blue on it, but it's also got purple pinkish greenish color where the mid attaches to the collector. Ti headers aren't all that blued, they being OEM I think they are thicker walled than the mid pipe. Ti looks cool when it gets hot.

I don't think it was much more than $100 more for the Ti mid pipe. I forget offhand

[toocrazy2yoo]

Well, I'm gonna sit tight with the pipes that are on it. The bike's only got 3490 miles on it as of tonight. My first literbike. No need to downshift, just do a little roll on and it's down the road. Amazing...

[#1 masshole]

yeah my oem turned blue-ish but not straight out blue. It does have pretty thin walls though. My full yosh system header feels heavier, maybe it's just me.

[richw]

May be a little lean also low restriction is higher temp mostly just deal

Various oxide compounds form at different temperatures.

Also "stainless" comes in doz. of formulations and properties. Remember the name
Stain Less not stain proof

Don't be forever polishing them off to bright because they are rotting to the outside so you might hasten a hole

[toocrazy2yoo]

If it's the stock exhaust and jetting, it sounds like it's running lean. The stock pipes are double walled and usually don't blue like a single wall SS exhaust. Gold from the head to the mid pipe is normal.

It's no biggie. If you want to start the mod addiction, go to Holeshot.com and get a jet kit based on what you want to do. If you want to stay mostly stock, get the stage 1.

Also, go to Maximum-Suzuki.com. Probably the best site for Bandit information.

What would a StageI installed cost me? Would the dealer put install it? Do you have to mess with the computer? I don't know shit about bikes beyond plugs and oil changes. I'm better off finding a shit hot tech or shop to do this stuff than fuggin' it up and taking it to them in the end anyway. ESPECIALLY when it comes to carbs and internals..

[palanon]

I forget now. I think the kit is about $100 - 150.00. No computer. The Bandit has a T.P.S. ( throttle position sensor ) but no fancy computer.

It's real easy to do. It does involve taking the carbs apart. Any reputable shop can do it. It would be a good time to get a slip on can but, not necessary. You could also go the poor mans route and shim the stock needles to richen it a bit.

If you can't find a shop in your area, you can get the Holeshot kit and bring it up to me one day. It's only a couple hours of work and I'll give you a lesson in carbs. There easy once you've done them a few times.

I like the holeshot kits because they're designed specifically for the Bandit and include stainless hex bolts to replace the crappy float bowl screws.

[rbrais]

So, On this GSX-R-powered 2002 Bandit 1200, the exhaust pipes are stainless. Up high, where they come off the engine, they're blue. Then going down, the blue fades to gold. At the bottom, they're perfect shiny chrome. It doesn't bother me they're blue, it actually matches the blue of the bike, but is it indicative of trouble? They're consistent, that is, they're the same blue and the same proportion across all four pipes. I gotta feeling the exhaust is so damned hot the pipes can't help but be blue.

Am I (as usual) fulla shit, or is all well as long as I don't mind the blue?

Oh, and BTW, the bike runs flawlessly. No sputters, nothing indicating trouble.

Stop jerkin off your bike half way and you've solved your problem.

Bikes that have nice shiny chrome pipes actually have shields that are chrome. Can't do anything about the pipe itself changing color.

[toocrazy2yoo]

I forget now. I think the kit is about $100 - 150.00. No computer. The Bandit has a T.P.S. ( throttle position sensor ) but no fancy computer.

It's real easy to do. It does involve taking the carbs apart. Any reputable shop can do it. It would be a good time to get a slip on can but, not necessary. You could also go the poor mans route and shim the stock needles to richen it a bit.

If you can't find a shop in your area, you can get the Holeshot kit and bring it up to me one day. It's only a couple hours of work and I'll give you a lesson in carbs. There easy once you've done them a few times.

I like the holeshot kits because they're designed specifically for the Bandit and include stainless hex bolts to replace the crappy float bowl screws.

Tx, dood! Might take ya up on it! When I get up to N.E., that is!

[Kurlon]

I don't like the stainless hex bolts in that application... too many people over tighten them, and strip the carb body instead of mucking up a cheap screw head.

[toocrazy2yoo]

I don't like the stainless hex bolts in that application... too many people over tighten them, and strip the carb body instead of mucking up a cheap screw head.

Better the E-Z Out than new carbs, eh? I can buy into that. I'll have to bring my torque wrench!

Yeah, right.

[Kurlon]

Better the E-Z Out than new carbs, eh? I can buy into that. I'll have to bring my torque wrench!

Yeah, right.

Hey, just reporting what I've seen. I have the proper size screwdrivers and bits for my hand impact driver. I have yet to run into a carb with a stubborn screw that I can't remove, no stripped heads yet. I have however dealt with carbs where either the plastic top on a CV carb was cracked, or the body stripped from people using allen head bolts and over doing it with an L shaped allen key.

[palanon]

Hey, just reporting what I've seen. I have the proper size screwdrivers and bits for my hand impact driver. I have yet to run into a carb with a stubborn screw that I can't remove, no stripped heads yet. I have however dealt with carbs where either the plastic top on a CV carb was cracked, or the body stripped from people using allen head bolts and over doing it with an L shaped allen key.

It's not just for carbs. It amazes me sometimes how clueless people can be about any torque values. Tightening screws or bolts doesn't require applying force until your muscles shake.

I also have all the drivers and bits necessary. However, the screws used are crap ( purposely soft to avoid over torquing ). Plus, the hex bolts make it quicker and easier to do jetting changes without pulling the carbs.

[richw]

My brother got and gave me a gunsmith torque driver for screws etc.

So you don't ding a screw on some Pidgeon grade pc.

works on other stuff well too

[Ninjajim]

Your pipes look fine. I do tig welding. As you heat stainless the metal changes in its state because stainless is a cold steel process. If you want to know more about cold processes look them up. Those pipes look normal my Zx-14 headers look fairly blue with 19,000 miles on them. Don't bother with any mods just yet. Ride that liter bike and forget the pipes:-)

[toocrazy2yoo]

Hey, just reporting what I've seen. I have the proper size screwdrivers and bits for my hand impact driver. I have yet to run into a carb with a stubborn screw that I can't remove, no stripped heads yet. I have however dealt with carbs where either the plastic top on a CV carb was cracked, or the body stripped from people using allen head bolts and over doing it with an L shaped allen key.

Nah, man, I wasn't funnin' ya. Just me. I don't even have a torque wrench, but we used em for EVERYTHING in NAVAIR. And you're right, everything that comes out of a shop or factory is gorilla-tight. Especially fastening plastic items, even the factory with shit like puke tanks for the cooling system, W/S washer tanks and air boxes, stuff is wrung on there so tight, you'd swear it's deliberate.