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So if I leave oil (full synthetic) with 1000 miles on it in my bike for the winter what happens that is bad?
will the bike grow a third cylinder?
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06 749R #0047
08 R 1200 GSA
13 Monster EVO 1100
Used oil is acidic. There are multiple kinds of metal in your engine.
acid + dis-similar metals = battery
One of the fears is that there is electrolisis going on inside your motor.
LRRS/CCS Amateur #514 / RSP Racing / Woodcraft / MTAG Pirelli / Dyno Solutions / Tony's Track Days / Sport Bike Track Gear / 434racer / Brunetto T-Shirts / Knox / GMD Computrack
If you are a stickler (i'm not...)
You would store the bike with fresh oil, then change it again before riding in the spring.
LRRS/CCS Amateur #514 / RSP Racing / Woodcraft / MTAG Pirelli / Dyno Solutions / Tony's Track Days / Sport Bike Track Gear / 434racer / Brunetto T-Shirts / Knox / GMD Computrack
I've done some reading on oil. the more I read the more. so I say change it with some cheap autozone then put the good shit in the spring.
www.bostonmoto.com
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Heres a condom. I figured since youre acting like a dick, you should dress like one too.
majority of people leave used oil in there bike every season. and you don't read countless threads about the acid eating away at any vital parts, besides I heard that petroleom based would cause more of a reaction than full synthetic. If you have your bike in a heated garage or somewhere where condesation is not a big factor , and start your bike , let it run long and hot enough any water will boil or steam off , and problem solved .
Beat It Like A Rented Mule !!
Legend in my own mind
So do I change it and then not start it up or change it, start it, stop it, store it.
Im all about procedure....
EVERYTHING is a repost
06 749R #0047
08 R 1200 GSA
13 Monster EVO 1100
Manny, change the oil every other wednesday with the $60 a case Shell or motul stuff. Put the old useless, 2 week old crap back in the original bottles and give them to me for 'recycling'. Between oil changes, don't start the bike. On the other wednesdays (in between oil chnages) switch the spark plugs over so each gets a turn in each cylinder.
Alternatively, you could just leave it and stick some fresh stuff in in the spring, ya fuggin worry-wort.
oil has additives to combat/neutralize the build up of acidic by-products of combustion, so at the 1000 mile mark, with synthetic, you're probably fine without changing it at all.
some people change it before the winter layover and afterward, which to me is wasteful as hell, but to each their own.
if you will feel better, change it, do NOT start it, and put whatever you are going to run in the spring in it (ie, do not change it again in the spring unless you really want to waste the money)
and don't start it over the winter unless you bring it up to FULL OPERATING TEMPERTURE before shutting it down.
Get out while you can
Find your own path
ehhh... I'll be lucky if I even stabilize the fuel
LRRS/CCS Amateur #514 / RSP Racing / Woodcraft / MTAG Pirelli / Dyno Solutions / Tony's Track Days / Sport Bike Track Gear / 434racer / Brunetto T-Shirts / Knox / GMD Computrack
I always put fresh oil in before i store it. It usually needs a change anyway by then and i put fresh oil in before i ride it in the spring. I look at it like a precaution and an extra flush. It my be wasteful but it's more of a routine for me now. I've done the same thing for 15 years and if i didn't now it would feel like i was doing something wrong.
I know a fellow who drains the old in the fall and fills the crankcase up to the top of the filler hole for winter outdoor storage.
With everything covered in oil all is good?
He has a tag on the ign. key to remind him BTW.
I run my bike up every 3 weeks.
My procedure the last two years has been:
1.) Take bike out for a last long ride. Stop at the gas station near home, fill it up as high as I can, pour in stabil, ride home.
2.) Put bike on stands, drain out the oil, fill the crankcase with fresh oil, all the way up to the top of the fill hole (overfill to remove air from the crankcase, lessen the chance of condensation).
3.) Pull battery, clean chain, wipe down exposed metal bits with wd40.
4.) Cover the bike, cry, and head inside to go on NESR.
So far my bike has never failed to fire right up come spring time.
LRRS/CCS Amateur #514 / RSP Racing / Woodcraft / MTAG Pirelli / Dyno Solutions / Tony's Track Days / Sport Bike Track Gear / 434racer / Brunetto T-Shirts / Knox / GMD Computrack
You can all stop being such pussies and just get some electric gear and not put the bike away for the winter.![]()