Brake lever not pulling smoothly

[ChicknStripEatr]

Let me start off by saying, the lever itself has chatter (even when the bike is stopped) while being squeezed, this does not feel related to the master cylinder, calipers, pads, rotors, etc. This just started happening on my way to work this am so I haven't had time to sort through the interwebs or my shop manual for an answer. I figured I would try picking your brains first.

My bike is now 12 years old, would it be out of the question that the brake lever assembly needs to disassembled and the pivot pin/piston assembly/dust cap need a good greasing?

Thanks.

[Degsy]

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Brake master cylinder needs a rebuild.

[OreoGaborio]

Grease the contact point between the lever and the plunger. That should smooth it out again.

[DuncanMoto]

Get a K&L rebuild kit.
Takes about 2 hours including complete brake fluid flush.
If you have rubber brake lines replace them while you're at it.
Rubber on piston gets dried out.
Shortly after the chatter comes leaking.
Shortly after leaking comes failing.
Almost immediately after failing comes wreck.

[butcher bergs]

...would it be out of the question that the brake lever assembly needs to disassembled and the pivot pin/piston assembly/dust cap need a good greasing?

No however do not slather everything in grease. A light coating of something synthetic is a good start.

If the problem is still there, look into a master rebuild. 12 years is a pretty good amount of time so you may want to do it just as a preventative thing.

[ChicknStripEatr]

Grease the contact point between the lever and the plunger. That should smooth it out again.

After poking around google, I have found some folks that use lithium grease or even chain wax on the contact point to eliminate the snagging feeling while pulling the brake lever. Going to try this later and report back.

The cylinder rebuild (and new lines) will be on the list of things to do soon, in the meantime I'll keep at sharp eye out for leaks.

Thanks guys.

[Degsy]

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Get a K&L rebuild kit.
Takes about 2 hours including complete brake fluid flush.
If you have rubber brake lines replace them while you're at it.
Rubber on piston gets dried out.
Shortly after the chatter comes leaking.
Shortly after leaking comes failing.
Almost immediately after failing comes wreck.

Ted speaks the truth.

[OreoGaborio]

After poking around google, I have found some folks that use lithium grease or even chain wax on the contact point to eliminate the snagging feeling while pulling the brake lever. Going to try this later and report back.

Thanks oreo.

No problem. I've had the same thing on some of my other bikes and that did the trick.

But the other guys bring up some good points, so be sure to check the rest of the system. Greasing that spot can get rid of the "snagging" sensation but the rest of the system may need some attention as well.

Like they say, brakes are one of those things you take for granted.... until they're not there when you need em.

[Degsy]

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If it's a snagging feeling, grease the pivot point. If it's chatter, it's the piston seal o-ring.

Do not grease anything past the rubber cap!!!!!!

The only lubricant that should be past the rubber cap is brake fluid.

[DuncanMoto]

DON'T BE AN IDIOT.
Rebuild kits are like $30.
Are you really gonna cheap out and just grease your 12 year old rubber plunger?

Rant over.

[OreoGaborio]

Lets clarify something so we know exactly what we're talking about and not jumping to conclusions....


Do you feel this only when you're slowing down?
Or can you squeeze the lever at a FULL STOP and recreate the symptoms?

If it's the latter, grease the spot I mentioned...
If it's the prior, there may be other issues.

[ChicknStripEatr]

All valid points. I edited my last post after reading some of your responses.

[ChicknStripEatr]

Lets get something straight here so we know exactly what we're talking about and not jumping to conclusions....


Do you feel this only when you're slowing down?
Or can you squeeze the lever at a FULL STOP and recreate the symptoms?

If it's the latter, grease the spot I mentioned...
If it's the prior, there may be other issues.

I can squeeze the lever at a FULL STOP and recreate the symptoms.

[Degsy]

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Lets clarify something so we know exactly what we're talking about and not jumping to conclusions....


Do you feel this only when you're slowing down?
Or can you squeeze the lever at a FULL STOP and recreate the symptoms?

If it's the latter, grease the spot I mentioned...
If it's the prior, there may be other issues.

A bad master cylinder will still have chatter at stop.

[OreoGaborio]

Intelllesting.... guess that makes sense.

How would you differentiate between a chatter & a snag?

[Degsy]

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Intelllesting.... guess that makes sense.

How would you differentiate between a chatter & a snag?

Snag tends to be a resistance then a sudden movement of the lever. Chatter is where the lever goes a bit, has resistance, goes a bit more, has resistance. It's very hard to brake softly at low speed with chatter.

[ChicknStripEatr]

Just walk out of my office to get an exact "feeling" of the lever. When squeezing hard, lever pulls smooth almost the whole way. When pulling the lever softly, pull a very little then resistance, then it pulls smooth for a very little bit, then more resistance and so on.

Lube to get me through the weekend then MC rebuild next week, is this what I'm hearing?

[DesmoTull]

Just walk out of my office to get an exact "feeling" of the lever. When squeezing hard, lever pulls smooth almost the whole way. When pulling the lever softly, pull a very little then resistance, then it pulls smooth for a very little bit, then more resistance and so on.

Lube to get me through the weekend then MC rebuild next week, is this what I'm hearing?

Or, just get what you need in the next few days, and take 2 hours on Saturday morning to just take care of the rebuild.

[Degsy]

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Just walk out of my office to get an exact "feeling" of the lever. When squeezing hard, lever pulls smooth almost the whole way. When pulling the lever softly, pull a very little then resistance, then it pulls smooth for a very little bit, then more resistance and so on.

Lube to get me through the weekend then MC rebuild next week, is this what I'm hearing?

Yep. That's the plan.

[ChicknStripEatr]

Thanks guys.

[darkduc7]

I crashed twice this weekend because of a bad MC. It sucked, I don't recommend it.

[RandyO]

My bike is now 12 years old, would it be out of the question that the brake lever assembly needs to disassembled and the pivot pin/piston assembly/dust cap need a good greasing?

Thanks.

cleaning & lubing pivot bolts on the levers is normal routine maintenance that should be done every time you service the bike

its not out of the question at that age (not sure how many miles) that the perch is worn and needs replacing

[SVRACER01]

i just went through this with my girlfriends 01 GSXR. i got one on ebay for like $20. when i took the old one apart it was obvious that the fluid had never been changed. it was rust colored and sludge like. im gonna do a full brake fluid flush this week. new master cyl took care of the chatter i was feeling before.

[ChicknStripEatr]

UPDATE:

Ok, get out your mental notebooks to write this down.

I pulled the pivot pin and immediately saw lots of biuld-up on the pin, I removed the lever and there was plenty more build up where the lever rotates around the pivot pin inside the MC assembly. Cleaned up all components, applied lithium grease to pin area and other suspect areas of the lever, I also put a dab where the lever contacts the piston. Reassembled and now it pulls nice and smooth. And yes, a new MC is still on my radar screen, given it's age.

Again, thanks for all the help.

[Degsy]

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Hooray! Pete, you were right.