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So my R1 is in need of a chain pretty bad, and going to do the sprockets at the same time also. I was looking on Motomummy and found these kits http://www.motomummy.com/store/home.php?cat=270. I was looking at the Sprocket Specialists set, not set on this at all just cought my eye. The 520 set up is $45 less then the 530. I know that the 530 is stock, should i stay with it? I know the 530 will be stronger, but that much?
I was also considering changing the gearing, maybe.. Any suggestions in that area it has 17/45 stock. Looking for a little more punch down low, -1 up front? I would also assum that a spedo healer will be needed with is why i am uncertain on changing the gearing....My bank account yells at me daily.
TIA![]()
I'd stay with the 530, it'll last longer and stretch less.
Sprocket Specialists would be my choice as well with a DID chain
Yamaha
I'll make the majority of people who look at this thread go ape shit and say go with the 520. On a litre bikeAll the 520 chains he has are a lot stronger than OEM 530's. Everyone will tell you you won't notice a difference between the 520 and 530 on the street, which is correct. But you've already noticed the biggest difference, $$$. As for wear...well, take care of it. IF you're a stunter or generally beat the piss out of your bike, might want to shell out the coin for the 530. If not, go 520 and use the saved $ towards the speedo healer.
Sprockets, I'm -1 +1...but I went up one in the rear to compensate for the higher profile rear tire, as I went to a 190/55 from a 190/50. If you also have a 55 series rear, after having used 190/50 then add a tooth to the rear sprocket. 55 series tire having the larger circumference will be like subtracting a tooth in the rear. If you're not running a 55 rear....try that too, when you get your next set of tires.
If you're wondering, I went with the EK MVXZ 520 and the Driven sprockets. After 1000+ miles, my only complaint is that g'damn white lithium grease EK chains come loaded with.![]()
Even though it's more, scroll down a bit to the stealth. I have a Super Sprocket but I'm guessing the Stealth is close to the same. Steel teeth will last far longer than aluminum so you'll get your moneys worth by next year if you put miles on the bike. As for the Speedo Healer, I'm a Zuki/Duc guy but thought that the speedo sensor wasn't in the gearbox of a yami, making compensation unnecessary. Check it with other sources though 'cause I could be wrong on this one.
Stick with 530, go -1/+2. Losing top end on a liter bike really isn't a bad thing. They go 180+ anyway...
Friends don't let friends wave to Can Ams
How many miles on the first set ?
I always laugh at sprocket swaps except for real racers and big changes for stuntas.
The only time I did it was to avoid a buzz at 72 MPH where I used to cruise. I went up to lower RPM's and did better at the drags because of I less shift.
Want more RPM's in a situation its called 5th gear on a liter bike in the NE you can just put it in 4th and do any twisty road we got. Leave the shifting for the 600
Glen Beck is John the Baptist
Just ticked over 21,000. Does seem a little soon considering my F3 got 28,000 before it needed a new one. But, it has a wicked tight/loose spot and im gettting pretty sick of adjusting all the time.
I had always heard that when you replace the chain you should do the sprockets, not true? The teeth seem ok to my non-expert eye...but, i am considering a gearing change.
Last edited by MysteriousR1; 06-14-09 at 08:49 AM.
Check out the web site http://www.sprocketcenter.com/ Almost overnight service. Unbelievable service and knowledgable staff. Great prices too.Check it out man.![]()
Well, I can't say yet. I replaced the OEM junk at about 8500 miles. I didn't wait for it to wear out. Quite honestly I think the bike will still have the 520 and sprockets on it, when I get rid of it...and that won't be for a few more years.
I have noticed this 520 chain is a lot stronger than the OEM 530 DID chain. I could tighten the 530 to spec and take the bike out and thrash it with a 200-300 mile ride, after it needed to be tightened. Not so with the 520.
Yamahas have the speedo sensors IN the gear box? But even still, changing tire or sprocket sizes is still going to throw the speedo off won't it ?
You did well with you 1st set at 21000
520s are lighter and reduce unsprung weight which is a good thing
I think OEM chains are mid grade now not worse shit etc.
MOst GOOD catalogs will show tensile strength of the chain more is better
Some chains are pre stretched at the factory better for you as initial stretch is designed in to the correct pin spacing.
Check out like Chaparral Motorcycle (sp) to see specs
Your sprockets are junk get them with your new chain. I vote for stock ratios but that's just me.
Next problem is whether to get master link clip or peened over. Even I think the peened over are better but you need to have/borrow a tool. I have always used clipped type materlinks without a problem.
Glen Beck is John the Baptist
Here's my .02-
Stick with the stock chain size, drop the gearing if you don't mind power wheelies and lots of highway revs. Go down one plus 2 in the back.
Definately get a rivet master, I would not run a clip on a high performance street bike.
KP
D.I.D Chain (Rivet Type)
Renthal Sprockets. Without question.
I worked in aerospace manufacturing for years. One thing I learned is there are two types of anodizing processes. One that gives you all those fancy colors and the others is a tan/green color (Renthal color). The reason its that color is because its the hardest anodize available and can't be made into other colors. On top of this, Renthal's been making motorcross sprockets for years. If they can make those last, Road sprockets become a joke.
My vote is -1/+2 with AFAM sprockets, 520 DID ERV3. Reduced rolling inertia, more punch down low, and a strong high tensile rating chain. IMO of course.
Steve
Work Hard---Play Harder
I just ordered a -1 up front to get some better grunt down low myself, and I've been told that just a -1 in the front is usually plenty to get into power sooner, enough that the front end will power up in 1st and 2nd, and this is on a Z1000. I imagine on an R1 you won't want anymore than -1 in the front.
Also from what I understand, a speedohealer is a great idea BUT the problem is that on most bikes the odo is pretty accurate, whereas the speedo has a correction of -6-7%, which from what I take of it means if you go to correct the speedo with the gearing change and the stock correction (about ~11-12% in my case), it will make your odo read lower than it should. You might want to take all that into consideration when you go to program it.
2023 KTM 890 Adventure R
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Glen Beck is John the Baptist
Think its worth getting the chain breaker/rivet kit for a extra $85? Not sure if my shop will just rivit the chain on if i bring it there just clipped on? Unless somewhere near to RI would like to help me out
..will be
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520 chains are as strong as 525 & 530 chains BUT
520 sprockets are not, the reason to stick with 530 is not the chain, its the sprockets
RandyO
IBA#9560
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