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Isn't Alex's running the same custom front sprocket and retainer setup? Pester him to take his off and see what's going on in there.
You lost me at the NUTsert
From what Im seeing with nutserts, there needs to be space on the other side so it doesnt just pull out. The shaft I have is flat around the inside, would jamming the nutsert in be enough to hold it?
And does anyone know where I could buy just one or two to givei t a shot instead of an entire box?
measure the inside diameter and debth of the hole in the shaft (gigaddy) and let me know.
It's all water under the bridge, and we do enter the next round-robin. Am I wrong?
Go to Fastenall in Lynn Salem or Peabody. They may have something.
-Alex
I can resist everything but Pete's mom.
That's pretty small (that's what she said)
I was thinking you could use some spare hardware from a set of bark busters. I may or may not have some laying around, I'll have to check. Even a length of tight fit rubber tube would work, thread in a bolt and it'll hold some decent pressure.
It's all water under the bridge, and we do enter the next round-robin. Am I wrong?
Maybe take a regular steel nut of appropriate size and thread pitch, turn it down on the lathe from hex to round so that it's a light press-fit into the ID of the countershaft bore. Press it in, TIG a couple quick tack welds and call it done
EDIT: yeah, 5/16" is pretty small for this approach... it'd require a pretty small bolt.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/115/3241/=48qn68
Even the Nutsert/Rivet stud approach is only going to offer a really small bolt...
a 1/4" bolt requires a 25/64" hole (which is larger that what you have).
Mike, what do you think about welding the spacer to the back of the sprocket and turning down the face of the sprocket to allow use of the stock clip?
-Alex
I can resist everything but Pete's mom.
The sprocket is going to be hardened steel... tough to cut, and the possibility of losing temper when welding it.
May not have to weld it at all.
Looking at LocTite 603 and 638... 638 looks promising...Urethane Methacrylate designed to bond cylindrical fittings... cures anaerobically, etc...
So, turn a bolt down to proper OD to fit the ID of the countershaft (LocTite has guidelines about bond gap), press it in, let it cure and go racing
https://tds.us.henkel.com//NA/UT/HNA...ile/638-EN.pdf
Oh, I thought you were saying turn down the threads and stuff it in thread side first.
-Alex
I can resist everything but Pete's mom.
How much lateral force will that thing see? That's a small bolt. Then again it held on with hopes and dream before so...
-Alex
I can resist everything but Pete's mom.
What's the outside diameter of a wellnut?
Probably relatively little. The threaded portion of the stud could be fairly large, actually... say 1/2" x 20? The part that needs to be turned down to fit the countershaft could just end at a shoulder that rests against the shaft. so, the remaining threads could be a bit bigger than the hole, as long as there's enough clearance for the ID of the sprocket to pass over it.
Word, let me know if you wanna bring it over... you can get that LocTite stuff at MidwayUSA. 620 or 638 should do it... 620 has higher heat resistance, but I don't recall having felt a really hot countershaft... I think 638 is good to 100deg C.
http://www.midwayusa.com/browse/Brow...1***&pageNum=2
EDIT... maybe 620 would be better... looking at the 638 data sheet, the engine heat could be an issue...