It's a lot easier to solder with flux.

[OreoGaborio]

Your helpful hint of the day.

Can't believe I ever tried to do it w/o it. Friggin impossible.

[Degsy]

Your helpful hint of the day.

Can't believe I ever tried to do it w/o it. Friggin impossible.

neither can I. What were you thinking? I would say that anything you soldered without flux is probably a dry joint waiting to happen. Most solder comes pre-fluxed (core flux)

d

[OreoGaborio]

Eh, what can i say? No one ever taught me how to do it right.



This time I decided to do some research, first. Woulda been a lot easier if I had more space & wire to work with but I think it came out pretty good.

[butcher bergs]

Most solder comes pre-fluxed (core flux)

You definitely don't want to rely solely on the flux contained in the solder...it's usually not aggressive enough to tin or solder.

Liquid flux...There's no better choice.

[OreoGaborio]

they didn't have any liquid flux, just the paste stuff. Seemed to work just fine. Liquified instantly once it got hot anyway

[Jayspeed]

I've used core flux solder and either had a good easy solder job or it would be stubborn and ball up rather then seep into the wires.

[butcher bergs]

Paste is okay but, admittedly, my job has spoiled me with the liquid.



Maybe a group buy on liquid flux is in order...only $35/ gal...I'm looking at a gallon right now!

NESR price: $5/ fl oz

[OreoGaborio]

A gallon??? hahaha, I bought a 2 oz tin of paste & I'm sure it'll last me a frikkin LIFETIME!

[butcher bergs]

So just a 1/2 gallon then??




Yeah, we go through gallons of this stuff...

[ZX-12R]

Your helpful hint of the day.

Can't believe I ever tried to do it w/o it. Friggin impossible.

Also, cleanliness is next to godliness. You want your two surfaces as clean as possible and grease free for a proper solder joint. Agressive fluxes can take care of slightly dirty surfaces but if you have corrosion it should be scraped off mechanically.

Same rules apply if you are sweating copper pipes and fittings.

[OreoGaborio]

I was just making damn sure that i was getting a good connection since I didn't have a proper crimping tool.



After seeing that picture... I don't think mine looks quite as pretty any more

[ZX-12R]

Paste is okay but, admittedly, my job has spoiled me with the liquid.



Maybe a group buy on liquid flux is in order...only $35/ gal...I'm looking at a gallon right now!

NESR price: $5/ fl oz

$5 * 128oz = $640
($640-$35)/$35 *100 = approx 1729% return on investment

I like your business model!

[butcher bergs]

Gotta pay for these bikes somehow!

[KB]

Flux is your best friend. I use the plumbing flux paste shit on the wires to. I have had the same can for like 10 years now.

I heart flux.

KB

[TimD]

That there looks like a terminal for a GM weatherpack connector? Totally worth the $20 investment for the proper crimping tool. I use those things all the time and there totally impractical to assemble without the crimp tool. With the tool they take 2 seconds to assemble and look like that picture every time.

[Degsy]

I've used core flux solder and either had a good easy solder job or it would be stubborn and ball up rather then seep into the wires.

:-) wires weren't hot enough.

[OreoGaborio]

:-) wires weren't hot enough.

But you are




Aw shit, my name's Pete, not Denno!



Update... after ALL that FUKKING work... it didn't fix the problem

[akira700]

Update... after ALL that FUKKING work... it didn't fix the problem

bummer man.
whats up? You got a short circuit in there some where?

[OreoGaborio]

Charging system isn't charging properly. Not getting a full 14 volts at the battery. (getting less than 12)

I thought it was because I had a fried connector at the reg/rec... common problem.... that's fine... found a different fried connector under the tank... replaced that & no dice.

[butcher bergs]

Rut-ro...

Time to grab your favorite multi-meter and ohm out the harness...that'd be my next move.

[OreoGaborio]

yeah I gotta invest in a good digital multi-tester. All I got is one of those cheap little analog ones.

[butcher bergs]

Dude, Sears Craftsman...I found a decent digital multimeter for like 35 bux.

Auto range, temp, ohms, continuity, digital display, memory...that's all I can think of at the moment.

Thing works the balls! Only complaint is the test leads have proven to be a bit on the short side, IMO. An easy fix however.

[OreoGaborio]

yeah, think I saw a couple down at the local hardware store in the 25-30 dollar range when I was there last week... almost picked one up, too. Gonna have to take a closer look at em & see if I can't support the local guys.

[Jayspeed]

:-) wires weren't hot enough.

Ya thats probably true. I was probably impatient and was thinking "just gimmi a freakin wirenut!"

[ZX-12R]

Charging system isn't charging properly. Not getting a full 14 volts at the battery. (getting less than 12)

I thought it was because I had a fried connector at the reg/rec... common problem.... that's fine... found a different fried connector under the tank... replaced that & no dice.

Electrical gremlins are so much fun to find! Did you bring your revs up when you checked the battery voltage? Have you had your battery load tested? A damaged battery can still show 12V.

In your soon approaching troubleshooting session, you'll end up checking the resistance of the 3 combinations of stator outputs 1-2, 1-3, and 2-3 which should be some low OHM value that varies from stator to stator so you will need a shop manual to know for sure. If the resistance is too high then your stator is fried and you will need another one.

If the stator resistance is fine, then you check the AC voltage output of the stator with the bike running at about 4K RPM. Depending on your configuration (see shop manual) you will see anywhere from 40VAC to 60+VAC from each winding. If the output is fine then your problem likely lies in your regulator. If the output is low then the rotor has probably been partially demagnetized which means you will have to replace it.

Friggin I-Tie electrical systems!