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Always kind of wondered, will a rear wheel track itself straight? Just replaced the chain and sprockets on my bike, and adjusted the rear axle assembly so that they look like they're on the same hash mark on either side of the swingarm, then snugged the bolts up. Took a 30 mile ride and noticed that the right side is no longer snug against the adjuster bolt anymore. Axle nut is torqued to spec, chain slack is good, nothing is loose. Should I just snug the adjuster bolt back up to the axle block and forget it?
2023 KTM 890 Adventure R
Are the marks still lined up the same on both sides? if so, sung up the adjuster bolt. It is common for the axle to twist while torqueing the axle nut, moving it out of alignment. A trick to prevent this is to put a screw driver handle uder the top run of the chain and back it into the teeth of the rear sprocket. This pulls the axle evenly against your adjusters. hold some pressure on the wheel while you torque the axle
Is it better to use the hash marks on the swingarm for alignment, or measure the adjuster bolt lengths?
2023 KTM 890 Adventure R
I'll have to try realigning it again tonight. Thanks.
2023 KTM 890 Adventure R
I usually align it based on centering the chain on the sprocket. Spin the rear wheel and adjust until the sprocket teeth are floating between the chain plates and not sitting on one side or the other. This is probably not the best way to do it, but maybe less chain wear?
I always try to run a piece of wire between the swingarm pivot to axle. Once you set that up and the adjusters are snug to the adjuster bolts, R&R of the rear wheel just means pushing the adjusters against the bolts, eyeballing the sprocket to chain alignment and calling it a day. I put little to no trust in the hash marks.
I always used the hash marks as a guide. I then measured the axle center to the end of the swingarm. They were always pretty damned close and it never caused a problem...
Did you grit your teeth and try to look like Clint Fuckin' Eastwood?
Or did you lisp it all hangfisted like a fuckin' flower?
The hash marks are notorously not accurate, plan accordingly. There are 1,000 ways to solve the problem.
Central Mass Powersports #123
1000rr, zx10r, rmz450, RE classic, r6, S4Rs, xr123, sv650(2), cr250 and a box truck that leaks power steering fluid.
I've got a piece of aluminum bar stock from Home Despot that I carry in my chem tote. I can lay it directly on a rear sprocket to verify that the sprocket alignment matches the chain path. It's worth spinning the rear wheel after and observing how the chain rides will point out if the sprocket is slightly wobbly. I also have two zipties with short ends on it so I can quickly verify swingarm pivot to axle alignment. Fun fact, the two alignments do NOT always agree...
I saw a youtube video where a guy placed a used fluorescent tube on either side of the back tire. If the front is in the middle, you're good.
Saw another youtube video where a guy puts the bike on a painted stripe on the floor and rolls it. If you're still on the line, you're good.
Duct tape is kinda like paint if the floor is clean enough
An anal way of using the hashmarks is to measure it with calipers. Usually you can get the teeth in there to measure the length of the exposed bolt as a proxy. Calipers are sensitive enough to detect differences of a 1/6th of a turn in the adjusters.
This is a lot of trouble for lining up the rear wheel. Unless you're on a 125, it doesn't need to do superbly accurate. As far as some of these techniques, careful what you are measuring for. Motors are not usually dead nuts straight in the frame, so front to rear sprockets can look out. GP bikes are actually assembled with motor shims so that the motor goes in straight.
On bike with plenty of torque, you are wasting your time. No real power loss will be detected. And unless you are waaaay out, no handling issues will be detected either. tire flex, chassis flex, and just the way the front end works will compensate for a little misalignment.
Roland Arsenault
LRRS and USCRA #763
2012, 2013 and 2015 Big Fish Small Pond Champion
"The 4 board is an upshift marker, not a brake marker"
Are you following the shimming procedure from the manual? Or just putting whatever you had in there back in? Is your chain too loose? in your case I would try to get one of the tools that measures from pivot to axle, then verify sprocket alignment with laserbeams or something.
Yes
No, I chose the shims that fit snugly in the spaces.
Not usually... maybe it loosened up when the sprocket went? Not sure...
Laserbeams? I thought this was supposed to be a simple bike!
Roland Arsenault
LRRS and USCRA #763
2012, 2013 and 2015 Big Fish Small Pond Champion
"The 4 board is an upshift marker, not a brake marker"
The swing arm marks are notoriously inaccurate. I have an alignment tool that I keep in my toolbox.
Since I'm swapping sprockets every other week for different tracks, I use this alignment tool frequently and be rally keep the rear wheel aligned within 1mm or less.
You guys are overthinking the shit out of this. Use the hash marks or measure the bolts, jesus..... I personally use the hashmarks.
Last edited by xrocket21; 05-20-15 at 07:11 AM.
Since you only have 2 wheels I don't think it works that way with the alignment on a bike. You will track in line with the front and back wheel and a slight miss alignment will not cause any kind of wear or handling issues. The other mentioned issues of chain and probably brake/tire rubbing would be more of a concern on extreme miss alignments.
Check out this YouTube https://youtu.be/4Dw2RZlUoUY
Most motorcycle problems are caused by the nut that connects the handlebars to the saddle