sticky throttle/prolonged revving when cold starting? (2009 R1)

[*GhostRide37]

so when i go to start my bike in the morning, first of all it takes 2 or 3 attempts before it fires up- not too big of a deal as long as its not an actual problem. but then once it is started, if i rev up to say 5k and let the throttle go, the bike will sort of continue at that range and slowly come back down. even if i cold start and let the bike get up to temp and then ride, if i let off the throttle it goes into cruise control mode and keeps going- not safe.


the throttle doesnt seem very snappy, so im not sure if its just a cable issue or if its something more. i saw a video on youtube of a guy with similar issues on his 09 R1 and he got ECU unleashed and it fixed it.

thoughts?



p.s. it has slip-ons but thats about it besides cosmetic mods

[Jim]

did you ask me about this already?
i'd try a ECU flash second.
first, would be to let me ride it

[GixerJockey]

Its not a cable issue... it doesn't have cables.

[Jim]

air filter and plugs look ok?
i doubt the injectors would get gunked up on a bike that new

[*GhostRide37]

yeah i did ask you lol. i lubed the cables (or tried to) but it didnt seem to help. my biker pal in town agreed the throttle didnt feel very snappy so i may try some more adjustments.


and of course you can ride it. just not on the crash. i mean track.

[*GhostRide37]

that's funny because my owners manual provides directions for maintenance of the bikes throttle cables. hm

[Jim]

i remember saying to take the throttle off the clip-on and see if there's anything on the bar that might be causing interference.
maybe clean it with some WD-40

[GixerJockey]

that's funny because my owners manual provides directions for maintenance of the bikes throttle cables. hm

Its fly-by-wire throttle. There may be a short section of cable for posterity, but largely not cable controlled.

[*GhostRide37]

Its fly-by-wire throttle. There may be a short section of cable for posterity, but largely not cable controlled.

so what else controls the physical response of the throttle if that the throttle and resistance cables? and assuming the grip is correctly lubed

[GixerJockey]

so what else controls the physical response of the throttle if that the throttle and resistance cables? and assuming the grip is correctly lubed

ECU. The actuation of the throttle sends an electronic signal that tells a servo how far to open the throttle bodies. Its not a matter of distance that a cable and linkage travels like in a traditional cable actuated throttle.

[*GhostRide37]

well while we're on the topic of ECU remapping... where is the best place around the boston area to have this done?

[GixerJockey]

well while we're on the topic of ECU remapping... where is the best place around the boston area to have this done?

Fuck if I know... I live in central Ct.

[Pigman]

use these guys for the ecu....they seem to have it down pretty good.



http://woolichracing.com

[CBR929RE]

ECU. The actuation of the throttle sends an electronic signal that tells a servo how far to open the throttle bodies. Its not a matter of distance that a cable and linkage travels like in a traditional cable actuated throttle.

length of cable doesn't matter, it can still stick. if they're lubed properly then you look elsewhere.

[R7]

Wirelessly posted

As mentioned, its fly by wire. I had a similar issue with my 09 R1 when it was cold...as in cold outside, not starting cold on a normal day. I don't remember exactly what the dealer did, but it was something to do with the fly by wire control box that the cables hook to. It didn't cost me anything and if I recall, there was a service bulletin for it.

[*GhostRide37]

use these guys for the ecu....they seem to have it down pretty good.



http://woolichracing.com

site says that they are in the process of developing yamaha products. only suzuki and kawi at the moment.

[*GhostRide37]

Wirelessly posted

As mentioned, its fly by wire. I had a similar issue with my 09 R1 when it was cold...as in cold outside, not starting cold on a normal day. I don't remember exactly what the dealer did, but it was something to do with the fly by wire control box that the cables hook to. It didn't cost me anything and if I recall, there was a service bulletin for it.

just called the dealer. looked up the VIN and said the only outstanding service update for for some plastic near the headlights... but did say to bring it by and they'd take a look. would you also agree that it sounds like an ECU issue. i may upload some videos to help

[Kurlon]

First issue, if you open the throttle and take your hand off, does the throttle tube rotate back to closed on it's own? If so, you need to chase the mechanical side of the equation, grit under the tube, cables lubed, cables binding if routed improperly, etc.

If the throttle tube quickly and reliably returns to closed but the bike still exhibits the issue you're describing, now we're talking ECU or TPS.

[*GhostRide37]

here is a quick video of the issue



and in case you cant see it, no the throttle is not rotating back closed on its own (or if it is its going very slowly)

[Jim]

Ben, you should be a hand model

[*GhostRide37]

Ben, you should be a hand model

aw thanks

[butcher bergs]

Not sure if it has been stated but your throttle tube should NOT be lubed at all. They are designed to operate dry.

A very common mistake that many riders make which leads to sticking throttles.

Clean it and run it dry.

[Kurlon]

So, this is something with the mechanical side of the house. I'd take the throttle apart, make sure it's nice and clean on the bar, in the housing and in the tube. I don't like to put grease between the bar and the tube as it may retain grit that way. The plastic should slide on the aluminum just fine without lubricant. While the throttle is apart, manually tug on the cables to see if you feel excessive resistance, and lube them with cable lube. You'll want to pop the airbox / tank off so you can put a rag at the other end of the cable to catch the overspray, it's smelly / sticky crap that I'm sure you don't want all over your nice motor. You can also try wiggling the cables while testing the throttle (engine off) to see if moving them a certain way suddenly causes the throttle to snap closed implying a kink somewhere in their routing.

[R7]

Wirelessly posted

The R1 fly by wire works by push/pull cables. Mine did the exact same thing...slow to return. There was nothing wrong with the handle bar twist, it was all on the fly by wire servo....which was solved once the dealer updated something in it

[RandyO]

so when i go to start my bike in the morning, first of all it takes 2 or 3 attempts before it fires up- not too big of a deal as long as its not an actual problem.

it is a big deal it it doesn't start the moment you thumb the starter, cranking puts unnecessary strain on battery and starter , fresh plugs may not make a measurable difference on a dyno, but they make a difference to your starter & battery