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So, the clutch in my 1994 Yamaha Serow XT225 was toast, so I bought new clutch plates.
I replaced them, and adjusted the clutch, now it seems too "tight"
If I hold in the clutch and shift from N to 1, I can feel it drag. The big problem is that if you come to a stop in 1st with the clutch in, you cant get it into N, you have to be moving to get it into N, or the engine off. Its like the clutch is too "tight".
I checked movement wit the cover off, and the clutch is disengaging completely, and I put the plates back together the same way they came off.
My atk actually does the same when its cold, when you shift to 1st from N, you can feel it drag with the clutch in. With the ATK it goes away when its warm.
It was an issue on the atk (though the atk doesnt shift had), and now that I "solved" the toast clutch on the XT, I now have a similar problem to the atk of the clutch feeling like it doesnt completely release![]()
Sounds like the cable adjustment is too tight.
There should be at least 5mm of play between the lever perch and the lever prior to the cable physically being pulled.
On the ATK it's dragging when cold because of cold oil making the plates sticky. I've been told to work the clutch lever with the bike in neutral while warming it up to help alieviate that.
If your clutch adjustment doesn't have any free play in it, you're essentially constantly slipping the clutch ever so slightly. You'll dump a ton of extra heat and wear into the system and depending on the design you may do things like shorten your clutch push rod or eat the mechanism that works the rod (Early YZ for example). That excess heat swells things causing drag.
Oh no, it isnt snug to the point of not letting the clutch close all the way. I adjust it till the clutch is fully clamped, then tighten the lever just a little less than sung, so there is SOME play in it, but very little, so the lever isnt floppy. Clutch is definitely fully engaging on both.
ummmm, youre supposed to soak the new parts?![]()
bump it back up
I soaked them and re-installed them and its still tight as hell
Should I just buy new clutch plates again?
It was like $35
it shifts soooooooo hard.
edit: ugh I love how I have had this problem for like 2 years and still haven't fixed it
http://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemp...c78c22b/clutch
this replacement shows two types of friction plate, Im pretty positive I only had one type. Any thoughts?
Looks like that special friction is sized to accept a spring (Part #19) so I'd say... yeah, if you don't have that assembly, get it.
I wonder if the onew I bought wasn't supposed to use the spring? I don't know, either way I ordered now plates and a new spring for $80.
How long should I soak them for?
Update: Friggen thing works awesome now! Shifts like butter and easily clicks into neutral!
I didn't have the spring matched with the right clutch plate.
When I bought the first clutch kit, it came all together and I just didn't realize that one plate was a different size.
When I ordered the second clutch kit, it was individual oem parts, the fact that one plate had a different part number slapped me in the face that one plate was actually different.
Is it common that one plate is different to match the internal spring?