Boat electrical work?

[Garandman]

We have a 1983 Robalo 21' Center Console. These boats are "Golden Oldies" for a number of reasons, including very robust construction, C. Raymond Hunt deep V design, etc. We have a 200hp Yamaha fuel-injected 2 stroke on it with low hours so it's reliable.

But we have lots of problems with the lights and some of the other wiring in the console. The boat is old enough that there is likely lots of corrosion in the connections, degraded insulation, work-hardened wiring, etc.

We'd like to find someone who was good with boat wiring to go through it and rewire the console. This won't be fun or easy but when we examine the cost of alternatives, seems like it might be worthwhile.

Are there any boat electrical specialists around? The boat bops back and forth between Marblehead and Boston but we could trailer it elsewhere in New England if it made sense.

[Chippertheripper]

http://www.skmarineelectronics.com/

Scotty is as sharp as they come.
Also a ff. Cuz I know you're over there too.

[ɹǝʍoןandɹǝʍoן]

any good electrician should be able to take care of it, boats like walls except there's water underneath!

[stoinkythepig]

any good electrician should be able to take care of it, boats like walls except there's water underneath!

There's quite a few special things to know about boat wiring. It's really nothing like a house. For instance, the 120 volt AC is done entirely with stranded wire, and you have things to deal with like galvanic isolators and such. Also, it's important to know that the boat bonding system (essentially "ground") and the AC neutral cannot ever be connected together on the boat, even at the AC breaker panel. There's also a very specific marine wire color code that's standardized among all brands. It's not like a car that can use any color for any purpose. Unlike a metal car, "ground" wires have to be run to all electricsal devices as well.

That said, a 21 foot CC is not likely to have shore power or a genset, but I think I'd still want it done right if it were mine.

[Chippertheripper]

Nothing on a boat is done with solid core wire. (excluding rg59 and 6u)

[BluGixxer]

A little trade secret, about the wire color,size,and solid vrs stranded. Just like every other trade or job skill , everyone has there own way of doing things, and they will swear to it. I worked on boats/yachts,inboards,outboards, and I/O's, I have seen any combo of wires, but you don't have to worry yourself about that stuff, as long as it works, and is dependable you should be happy.
you relize boats are nothing really that special. Not like airplanes.
Electrolisis is the biggest thing you have to worry about, so educate yourself, get a Bachelors degree in that word if possible.
Factory wireing is very good, it took you this far, if you let someone go on there and start replacing wire, I can almost guarentee you are going to be worse off, someone is going to want to cut corners,and save money/ time. I believe you can buy harnesses in pieces. Panel/console harness,then a yamaha harness back to the motor. But you probably don't need that. If you can use a srewdriver and a spray can, here's a big money saver. There is a product made for marine electric corosion, I have used it a few times, it is a miricle. In a can, almost $20.oo a can its worth $50.oo or more. You can have a rotten connection, with the white and green fuzz growing, spray it, and then measure for a voltage drop. You won't find one. (A little exadurated but not much)
I believe it is called corrosion X. It does last for awhile, up here it would last the whole season(4+5months). The stuff I worked on was salt water corrosion. Use this and only replace the connections that are truley bad.
Chapter 2
Making a whole harness with good connecters heatshrink dieelectric grease and ziptied neatly is expesive, and usually only an insurance claim on a saltwater sunken new vessel would get all new wire. And then you would be lucky to actually get new wire.
Try the corrosion-X, Land and sea does carry it (google it)
If I can be of any help pm me.

[ɹǝʍoןandɹǝʍoן]

There's quite a few special things to know about boat wiring. It's really nothing like a house. For instance, the 120 volt AC is done entirely with stranded wire, and you have things to deal with like galvanic isolators and such. Also, it's important to know that the boat bonding system (essentially "ground") and the AC neutral cannot ever be connected together on the boat, even at the AC breaker panel. There's also a very specific marine wire color code that's standardized among all brands. It's not like a car that can use any color for any purpose. Unlike a metal car, "ground" wires have to be run to all electricsal devices as well.

That said, a 21 foot CC is not likely to have shore power or a genset, but I think I'd still want it done right if it were mine.

sounds like a simple switch to me but as for the marine code I'm sure it's intriguing but I figured most electricians would have a good idea since they need to be licensed in code and I don't think there are separate licenses for boats are there? just residential light & light ind. and commercial or am I wrong?

[Chippertheripper]

You are wrong-ish. Not way out in left field, but by no means "on the money".