24 Days
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24 Days
Other than wire brushing and a dab of motor oil, what else do you guys do for rust on cylinder head exhaust studs & nuts? They came off easy enough, but would like to prevent any future trouble. TIA.
You can try some never seize but they are exposed to everything so its tough.
Or you could try something like this http://www.mcmaster.com/#rubber-end-caps/=rbz3ze
If you're talking about your header bolts, I use never seize every time they go back in.
Same for caliper and brake pad bolts.
First time I've ever encountered rust like this on a bike. On the R6, they're studs that stick out from the cylinder head on which nuts screw onto. Not looking to re-do the studs now, maybe on a rebuild. Did some searching prior to posting and consensus seems to be to skip the anti-seize ... not sure why, maybe the high temp does something funky to that stuff? Just looking to arrest the rust for future easy on/off of the nuts.
first time i've ever heard to not anti-seize the header bolts.
curious to the reasoning behind it
The only reason I can think of is you're putting a tacky coating on the bolt, it's in an area where it's going to collect crud. That combined with heat means you'll have a baked on mess to try and ram the nut over when you'll go to remove it down the line?
Electrical is pretty much all back in except for a couple plugs that go to parts I haven't put back on yet. Subframe is on, rear suspension needs to be torqued down but is in place. Rear wheel and head bearings replaced. Progress continues to be slow but it's moving along. Hitting a wall with the front wheel bearings though. No matter what I try I can't get the damn things out.
For those not on Facebook, here's a sneak peak:
http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/157/hz2o.jpg
I got a lot done over the weekend. I mounted the plastics. It looks wicked! Thanks to Lee at Skid Mark Racing/Motorsports.
I switched tanks, which is SO much more of a PITA than on the SV, since the RSV's tank has the fuel pump inside of it. Thanks to Annalisa for giving me a hand and being patient with me.
I also swapped the stock clip-ons for a set of Woodcraft. I also did most of the stickers and replaced/installed heat shielding on both SV and RSV belly pans.
Not much left, except the chain & sprockets, replacing antifreeze with water/wetter, and an oil/filter change.
I can't wait until 5/12 to get this out on the track.
thanks, now I'm not worried about tech at all.
yes, that way he can hear about my 4th race weekend, before he even does 1 lap :D
yea the number, were not suppose to be fancy. I got a couple sets of plan black with an outline and have been wondering what they'll say.
yours looks good by the way.
Attachment 38183
I ran the "chilled" font last year and they didn't say anything. As long as the scorer can read the numbers clearly.
23 days
if you have a 2 digit number, it doesnt matter. the lower the number, the better.
i remember when a garagemate walked into tech with no helmet, flat rear tire, and nothing wired....passed tech.
yet the yellow plate bikes failed tech because our front numbers were 5.5" and not 6". or the "1" had the little tail up top and didnt look like "l"
Attachment 38190
This passes
not according to the rule book though.
if they wanted to, they can fail that
^^^^^ that looks like a kid drew it with a crayon.
and there isn't.
22 Days
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and no not the lower the number the better anymore..... it used to be like that. past champions were allowed double digits and now anyone can get one