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oh ok just checking. hard to tell in the pictures, but yours look pretty much the same as mine. I'm not sure if they made clipons with different bar angles, but almost seems like yours may not sit quite as low as mine. I'd have to look again; probably just in my head.
I found the stock bars waaaaay too low. I went with 1.5 in riders from woodcraft. I have now lowered the clamps a little though. 1" rise would be perfect.
glad to hear I'm not the only one finding an issue with that! I may have to look into risers...
your avatar pic is exactly how I'm trying to position myself. the pivot point where my arm hits the tank means I either stop putting my head down, or let go of the bar lol.
So my bike has been having some starting problems lately.
This is how my past few track days have gone:
Night before leaving for the track, I arrive at my dads house (where the bike is kept) and she fires right up. I load her onto the trailer, she spends the night outside, I drive to the TD in the morning. Once I get to the track it typically doesn't start. The bike will cycle, make all the noises, turn over a couple times, then click and stop trying to start. Once it re-cycles and goes through all the noises, I try to restart and same thing. I eventually bump start it and it purrs like a kitten. Sometimes this fixes the problem and it starts the rest of the day flawlessly. What has been happening recently, is that it will start all day until the last few sessions, where it will have the same problem and not start. Sometimes I can wiggle the negative terminal and get it to start, other times I need to bump start it again. Once started, it runs great.
Thoughts? Is this regulator/rectifier related? As far as I know, its the stock on one there. Haven't looked up the vin to see if it warrants a replacement, but I don't have a title for the bike so getting it under warrant is probably not possible.
Battery seems fine, but I honestly haven't tested it.
Bike runs perfectly once running, its just the starting that I'm having problems with.
Didn't Paul has a similar issue last year on his Daytona? I think his was R/R related...
Put a volt meter on the battery when it starts acting up. Also odd that playing with negative terminal sometimes helps...
Yes. Get the recal part for the r/r and inspect yours stator for blackened wires in the windings
OP, check out my thread about my VFR regulator/rectifier (and general charging) problems. I've done a lot of the homework in terms of figuring out what components should be doing what thing at what voltage.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kurlon
For example, your stator is essentially a primitive alternator. It puts out an AC voltage, and that voltage varies at different RPMs. At low RPMs you might see 5-10 Volts AC (VAC); at 5,000rpm your factory manual may well show a 40 or even 50 VAC number.
The stator's output goes into a regulator/rectifier, whose job it is to both a) convert AC into DC and b) make sure the DC output is the right voltage. (On modern cars, the regular/rectifier is built into the alternator itself.) So if you're getting the correct voltage out of the stator, you need to see if you're getting the correct voltage into the R/R. And if you're getting the correct voltage into the R/R, you need to make sure you're getting the correct voltage out of it, too. Your factory manual will tell you; it's probably in the order of 13.2VDC - 14.4VDC give or take. Again, higher rpm numbers will mean higher output.
If your R/R is putting out the correct voltage, you need to check your battery. You can have a healthy charging system but a sick battery and vice-versa. If your battery, fully charged, never exceeds 12.2VDC or so then most specifications would consider that battery faulty. Much below the 12V figure and your bike will struggle to crank over.
I'm betting battery.
TIL I have a trick BMC filter.
In the process of checking my valve clearances. Anything else I should focus on checking while I have it apart?
Intake are all in spec. Exhaust are either on the loose end of spec, or right at .330, which is .05 loose. It is kinda tough to be sure as there is no god damn room to slide the feeler gauges in. I can't tell if I'm using a ton of force to get the gauge in because of how its positioned or because I'm compressing the valve spring.
My first inclination is to leave them be...better loose than tight, especially if I am being a bit too forceful with the gauge.
Yes, pretty much never tighten exhaust clearances. They are going that way on their own and motors supposedly make a little more power with slightly loose exhaust valve clearances.
Thanks Paul, glad to confirm...I'm still nervous with the valve issues you and Ken had. The motor has less than 10k miles on it, but they are all track miles.
Finished out the day with new plugs, replaced coolant with water, drained oil, and put on a new rear tire.
After taking inventory, here's the shortlist to get done during the offseason season:
-New Battery: need suggestions for best bang for buck. I don't need crazy light, I just want good.
-Woodcraft stator cover: I removed the busted up and welded one to force myself to get a new one. It will make a good spare, but it has always bugged me.
-Safety wire up what I can easily
Once that's taken care of I'll be able to fire her back up and work on the following throughout the season...
-Suspension
-New exhaust and tune
-Quickshifter
Replaced water with coolant??
Or does she live in a warm spot?
The latter. She's mighty toasty in my dad's basement.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chippertheripper
Not sure how to avoid the valve issue. Besides lowering the rev limiter rather significantly.
That doesn't sound like any fun at all. It already is a low revving bike (compared to the inline 4s)Quote:
Originally Posted by csmutty
Problem is the valves float at high rpm and hit the piston. Could try stiffer springs but that would also wear out the valve seats faster.Quote:
Originally Posted by JettaJayGLS
And I have absolutely no desire to pull the head and send it out to get it re-cut....Quote:
Originally Posted by csmutty
I'll just deal with any valve trouble when it comes.
I had valve issues. Ken did not. The bike actually revs out quite well, and that is the problem!
Picked up a new shorai for $100 :dunno:
Do you guys recommend finding a tuner who uses TuneECU or should I just get a power commander and go to anyone? Anyone you recommend? Ballpark on price?
Paul, I read your motor swap thread so I know you got a guy ;)
Go to John at Dynosolutions. He will use a PC, or Tune ECU. Tune ECU saves you 300 or so dollars.
You're not going to reap big HP benefits, just get the fueling sorted and working right across the board. It will sweeten an already sweet motor. After riding an R6 and this thing back to back, I would take the triple every day of the week. I did drag race Cole Hall a bunch of times on the loooong ass straight at NCbike, and it was a wash. the 675 is indeed fast. The chassis on the otherhand... Yamaha all day long.
Yeah, I am not looking to squeeze out some more ponies.
Everything seems fine, but I don't know for sure. I think Scottie and Q downloaded/tweaked a custom map. I know they built a custom exhaust. I just want to get rid of the unknown. I also have a check engine light that comes and goes that would be nice to have cleared up.
John is your man. Might cost you 100 bucks total? well worth it
Well that is fantastic. I was expecting 300+Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul_E_D