Marc, I have a variable voltage DC power supply for bench testing. You’re welcome to borrow it.
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Marc, I have a variable voltage DC power supply for bench testing. You’re welcome to borrow it.
The wire harness is laid out in a way that it can only be connected in one direction. I don’t believe the original injectors/throttle bodies were ever removed prior to me replacing the injectors last week.Quote:
Originally Posted by butcher bergs
While I have not checked the timing/cams/flywheel/crank, I’m almost certain the motor has never been opened up. It ran when the prior owner had it, I am able to get it to run by spraying fuel in the throttle bodies with a spray bottle.
I’ll look through the manual this evening to check if there is a sensor that picks up a signal for the injectors.
I’m also going to take my original set and get them sonic cleaned.
Every day I try to start it, it does run a little bit longer. It ran at about 1000rpm for 2-3 seconds today
My thought on the timing check was more about an injector pulse sensor, if there is one, and more specifically, I'm wondering if there's a reluctor wheel and sensor.
Interesting note about the run time increasing. IMO, it's entirely possible there's enough dried fuel in the fuel system that the remaining solids/varnish is causing problems and likely being flushed through now since fresh fuel has been introduced.
the bike is junk, i'll give you $20 to come take it off your hands :mrgreen:Quote:
Originally Posted by R7
So I haven’t had much luck getting it to run, and also trying to start it sounds a bit different. I’ve been messaging a guy in the UK that’s considered the R7 guru, and I think we have found the issue.
He says the valves are sticking in the guides, and the bike is unable to build enough compression to run.
When bikes sit for long periods of time, two things happen. Deposits that have built up on the valves and stems, corrode and cause the valve to stick in the guide, or not seat properly. 2nd, valve springs that have been compressed for so long, are weakened and unable to close the valve fully. In most cases, it’s usually only the valves that were partially opened while sitting.
First step to confirm this, is a leak down test.
I still think there is something off with the ECU, I can’t get it to switch into diagnostics mode while using the instructions from the service manual.
I’m probably going to drop it off to my buddy at the dealer to do the leak down test, and test the ECU.
If the valves are stuck, the head needs to come off I’m assuming.
That’s it for now
How hard will it be to find valve springs?!?!?!?!
Depending on how difficult finding them is, I wonder if it would end up being easier to have them made.Quote:
Originally Posted by xrocket21
Knowing Mark, he'd go to those lengths.
As odd as it sounds, it’ll likely be easier to find an entire head that’s complete, I’ve seen a few NOS heads on eBay, I’d bet the guy in the UK has some.Quote:
Originally Posted by xrocket21
Doesn’t sound like something a few capfuls of Seafoam couldn’t fix
Doesn’t the engine need to be running for sea foam to work?Quote:
Originally Posted by loudbeard
Would those lengths be preloaded or without load? At any rate I'm sure they could be made.Quote:
Originally Posted by OreoGaborio
Just get a couple of guys to spin the crank.Quote:
Originally Posted by R7
I ran into this on my 03 R6. I've got a leakdown tester if you need one. I ended up hooking up the tester while I had the valve cover off, cams out and then would literally 'bop' the valves with a hammer while the tester pushed air into the cylinder. You could hear the sealing improve with the hits, the incoming air would help clear crap dislodged from the seats as you smacked the valves. One cylinder went from 90% leakdown to under 10 in a couple bops.
I could see sticky valves such as gummed seats or guides but the comment about compressed springs to the point of deforming them is a tough one to get onboard with.
Sounds like a simple bore brush and possibly some valve lapping in your future.
Could also pull the valve cover and hit the valve stems with Marvel or a penetrating oil and let it sit for a bit to loosen up any crud.
Not the best update for the R7 project.
I dropped the bike off a few weeks ago to have a Yamaha tech diagnose the no start issue.
He confirmed the valves were sticking, and some of them made contact with the pistons.
I don’t know yet the extent of the damage, but there are at least a few bent valves.
I’ve already reached out to the Yamaha R7 guru in the UK to see what he has for parts.
ew newwww :shock:
How the hell did they make contact w/ the pistons? Any idea?
I would guess the valves were sticking in the down position?Quote:
Originally Posted by OreoGaborio
oh... yeah... that would make sense, wouldn't it...
... where's my coffee?
that's fucking bullshit
Off to Kibblewhite, new valves (oversized?) and springs, get a porting touch up...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kurlon
Not quite.. This goal of this bike, is stock and original as possible.
If there’s no damage to the head, it’ll just be getting the valves that are bent, replaced and whatever springs don’t meet specs. I can get the parts, I just need to know exactly what’s needed.
If the guides are damaged, I pretty much need a new head.
Guides are wear items and replaceable, I wouldn't sweat those being damaged.
For Mark's sake, I hope he's wrong. But knowing him, I feel like he knows something we don't about that bike's head... :sad2:
The guides are unavailable. The one guy in the UK most likely to have parts for this bike, doesn’t have any guides.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kurlon
offer is now $19 because of the busted guidesQuote:
Originally Posted by Jim