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I'll call. Tap water is fine. (as long as it is soft and doesn't have alot of minerals, Flouride and chlorine won't do much of anything).
www.justfuckinggoogleit.com
"I'd rather ride a slow bike fast than a fast bike slow"
Bikes: Ducati: 748 (Track) Honda: RC31 (Race/street)/ CRF 110 Mini Moto/ Hawk Endurance Racer Kawasaki: ZXR1200R
BOMO Instructor
EX# X
In case it isn't clear i am trying to spark a moto related debate... Silly season is almost over.![]()
"I'd rather ride a slow bike fast than a fast bike slow"
Bikes: Ducati: 748 (Track) Honda: RC31 (Race/street)/ CRF 110 Mini Moto/ Hawk Endurance Racer Kawasaki: ZXR1200R
BOMO Instructor
EX# X
you put Prestone in for the winter when it just sits there and switch out to distilled water+water wetter for the summer and you're done.
LRRS Am #331
Graphic Tailor / Woodcraft / Armour Bodies / Suomy / Cycle Performance Autobody / Shorai / ChickenHawk Racing
I'm for using stock. But what's in a stock coolant? Phospherous? None? Silicate is out for everything these days. DexCool uses no silicate, no phosphate. It's an OAT forumlation, Oraganic Acid Technology. Got a bad rep when GM started with plastic intakes and whatnot, and then peeps took up the 5 year maintenance schedule and they didn't fare well. Some coolants, like Zerex G)-5 are hybrids, they have a little OAT and a dash of silicate to cover the system until the OAT film builds up. Dirty little secret in the Prestone lineup (everyone's lineup), the coolants featuring long drain are ALL Dexcool clones, licensed or not. Most of the Jap brands, bikes and cars, use phosphates, no silicate, no organic acid. Whatever chemistry you pick, settle on it, flush good, use it and leave it be. I'd use distilled, myself, but if the tap water works for you, probably no problem, they put softeners into the coolants to deal with minerals anyway.
Problem with automotive oils in bikes is the lack of ZDDP, which protects gears. SM/GF4 for cars is there's only <800PPM zinc, the zinc supposedly being a contaminating agent of catalytic converters. So they put in less and less, attempting to make up the difference with moly, which is indestructible as regards cats, but like you said, promotes slippage of wet-clutches in bikes.. JATO-standard oils for bikes in SF/SG/SJ have upwards of 1200-1500 ppm of zinc. My 2009 Concours14, in spite of two catalytic converters, they still spec SF/SG/SJ oil with high levels of zinc becasue a catalytic converter fouling years down the road is better than skinning second gear for lack of zinc, or ZDDP. It's all a tradeoff. Lesson is, if the oil ain't SJ or below, it oughtn't be in a bike. Coolant? I suspect it's no big deal what you use, because the formulations are all effective, but for the warranty? Stick with stock.