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I imagine that is pretty good advice even for us mild track-day goers.
I've learned a little bit about helmets over the past few years working at a shop so I guess I'll add my .02 -
- Basic $100 helmet will get you a polycarbonate shell with a DOT approval. No requirement on the amount of shell sizes a manufacturer must produce. Theoretically they could make one shell and just use more or less padding to create the different sizes... Padding/liner usually isn't too comfortable.
- $150 - $200 - You can now get a polycarbonate shell with a DOT and snell approval. Basically just a reinforced polycarbonate shell so it will actually end up weighing a little more than the basic helmet. I believe manufacturers are required to have at least 3 shell sizes to pass snell for XS - XXL. Most of the increase in cost comes from purchasing the snell certification. Good example of this is the HJC CL-16.
In this price range you can also get a polycarbonate shell with DOT and ECE (european standard) ratings, such as the ICON airmada or alliance, or many scorpion models. These helmets may be able to pass snell, but the company either didn't want to pay for the certification or they didn't want to produce the minimum number of shells. ECE is a much different test than snell and in my opinion much less relevant. Basically any DOT helmet will pass ECE.
Nothing above here is race legal.
Also as mentioned earlier HJC just came out with the FG-17, which has a fiberglass composite shell. DOT and Snell. Had a chance to try this helmet out a few weeks ago and it's actually pretty nice for $200. I don't see why this helmet wouldn't be race legal....
-$300-$500 you start to get into some nicer helmets such as the RPHA-10 (formerly RPS-10) and the Bell RS-1. Now you essentially have fiberglass/carbon fiber woven shell. I don't know much about the Bell production, but RPHA-10 isn't produced at HJC's chinese factory. They are made at HJC's headquarters in Korea and they require more sophisticated production mostly because of the handwoven carbon fiber. These helmets are obviously stronger and lighter weight. Race legal as long as manufactured within the past 5 years...
-$500+ and you start getting into the Arai's and Shoei's... The premium helmets on the market. Essentially the same shell make up as the last group, but usually more carbon fiber and therefore even lighter weight and stronger. Great fit and finish,nicer EPS liner, excellent ventilation, race aerodynamics, and a great reputation. Can't go wrong with one of these helmets....
If you are on a strict budget I would look at the RPHA-10 or the RS-1, or try to find an arai, shoei, bell star etc. on closeout. Racing is very expensive, but you obviously don't want to skimp on a helmet. If you really can't afford more than $200 than you really can't afford to race. Sorry, just being honest.
LRRS #313
Trust me, there are plenty of ways to save money and still race. Buy used parts and gear, do your own wrenching, pack your own lunch, don't buy a dedicated race bike, don't do track days. But Sheppo is right: don't whine about the money you'll spend, and don't scrimp on the safety gear.
'02 SV650 street|woods|race LRRS #128
How does not buying a dedicated track/race bike save money? Are you suggesting racing a street bike instead? That's always seemed more expensive to me. I mean you can race an untitled, wrecked/rebuild, whatever hulk you bought off CL for a few hundred $$$. Can't street that.
Just curious what bike the OP is gonna run?
"I'd rather ride a slow bike fast than a fast bike slow"
Bikes: Ducati: 748 (Track) Honda: RC31 (Race/street)/ CRF 110 Mini Moto/ Hawk Endurance Racer Kawasaki: ZXR1200R
BOMO Instructor
EX# X
LRRS Am #331
Graphic Tailor / Woodcraft / Armour Bodies / Suomy / Cycle Performance Autobody / Shorai / ChickenHawk Racing
I'll just leave this here, but expires in 15 mins.
Buy a $492 Shoei Qwest and get a $343 gift card. So this is became a $149 helmet.....
http://www.motorcyclegear.com/street...le_helmet.html
Last edited by RocketPunch; 04-18-13 at 10:49 PM.
I have only retired one helmet because of age. Every other one has been retired due to crash damage.
Im going to leave cost out of this because it really should not be the determining factor in buying a helmet.
The main factor should be fit. A poorly fitting helmet will make a 8 lap sprint race miserable. I can wear my helmet all day without it bothering me.
Since youll be racing with us the build material is also important. As others have said stay away from plastic helmets.
After you figured out those two then think of what features you want.
For me I wear an Arai. They are expensive but Ive walked away from all my crashes with no head injuries. Ive highsided and landed on the helmet, I had my bike piledrive me into a tire wall, and Ive been hit on the crown on my head by a bike. The other nice thing is when I do need to replace it I can run over to street and comp and get one.
It won't work for everyone, but if your street bike is "sporty" and already set up for track days it shouldn't take much to make it a full on race bike. A street SV is a good (maybe the best) example that is reliable, simple, easy to convert, easy to fix, and very competitive. Realizing that full bodywork is not necessary will also save a lot of money and time. Just wanted to throw out some ways to save big bucks getting started while not compromising on fun, safety, or competitiveness.
'02 SV650 street|woods|race LRRS #128
brady, you aren't human. Let's just get that out of the way first. But yes it can be done.
LRRS 878 Clapped out Gixxah
Here's my take ... Spend the extra cash for a great helmet !!!!! Worry about buy'n another one when that time comes !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
" 17.1.6 The rider’s number must be displayed on the helmet."
Where do you guys get these from ?
Thanks ..
Miles should have some smaller numbers at the track. Might be able to pick something up at Staples or a craft store. They wont look great but they should do the job.
I get mine made at http://doityourselflettering.com/. Design your own they make them and ship them to you. Ive been happy with what they have made. Probably someone more local that can do it too. Right now time is against you considering we are starting this week.
you can get little numbers at the hardware store or home depot also.
LRRS Am #331
Graphic Tailor / Woodcraft / Armour Bodies / Suomy / Cycle Performance Autobody / Shorai / ChickenHawk Racing
I am with Rocketpunch, racer on a budget= sharpie and duct tape.
"I'd rather ride a slow bike fast than a fast bike slow"
Bikes: Ducati: 748 (Track) Honda: RC31 (Race/street)/ CRF 110 Mini Moto/ Hawk Endurance Racer Kawasaki: ZXR1200R
BOMO Instructor
EX# X
If you do it right, and don't plan on changing your number, all you need is a sharpie.