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Oh it's something you'll notice. I guarantee.
Zip Tie Alley Racing #444
Signature edit by Tricky mike
It will be a memorable time, Chuck, and once you get to that point you'll want a damper because you'll be hitting that transition faster and harder as your skillset progresses.
Richie, not to take away from your post but I nearly flew into the grass when I was trying the loose on the bars method. Then again, that was on my old FZ1 which was a handful to begin with.
Already learned that....then forgot for a bit until I threw a leg over Scott's 800. That bike seemed to exhibit a characteristic wallow in anything other than a straight line. Not a bad thing as it was obviously a part of that bike's personality.
Good for hacking up teammates too!
FWIW, I have a GPR (rotary) on my SX bike because it was cheap. It works well though and has lasted a season without failure. I was reluctant to buy it because of reports like these, but so far so good.
I had a sprint linear damper on my racebike and it did the job as well. As long as it's rebuildable for a reasonable cost, anything will work.
Rotary dampers are manufactured with an air bubble stuck inside. Its the downfall of the design. This causes cavitation of the oil inside when heated up, and when cold will cause a skip in the stroke. Skips, and cavitation are bad in a damper. Linear dampers perform better but they dont crash as well, and take up more space. Its a trade off.
Zip-Tie Alley Racing
LRRS/CCS #103
PPS | Dunlop | Boston Moto | Woodcraft & Armour Bodies | 35 Motorsports | Pit Bull | K&N
Yes, I realize that I don't crack the throttle WFO like I should be at times.
But I did ended up getting a bracket on the SV for the Scotts damper that's on Annalisa's 900. I'll swap it over when I ride on the track. Takes 2 minutes and saves me $300+.All in good time.
Stay away from Pit Bull imo. I havent used their damper but Ive also havent heard anything good about them. My experience with them is with bike that come into the shop with them mounted on. Everyone Ive seen requires you to drill into your frame to mount it. I have yet to see one Scotts damper that requires drilling to mount.
Zip-Tie Alley Racing
LRRS/CCS #103
PPS | Dunlop | Boston Moto | Woodcraft & Armour Bodies | 35 Motorsports | Pit Bull | K&N
Well you can drill into the headstock of your frame all you want. Ill stick with the bolt on type. The penalty for drilling for your sliders wrong is a few hundred dollars for a new panel from the dealer and a little time swapping it over if you do it at all. You drill the mount holes wrong for the damper not only does it not mount right but you can weaken your frame.
I'll have to double check exactly which two leads you are supposed to jump in that big connector but the other ones in there are not used, I filled it with silicone. YOu can see pretty clearly which two they are though based on the pictures, the other ones I bent out of the way to ensure no contact and then filled with the silicone.
The other large-ish connector you need to put push terminals into it, that's where the switch goes.
Connector I made:
Good to go, the one on the right is where the switch wires to:
Here's the switch:
Damper setup:
Top view with switch good to go:
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Last edited by CEO; 02-04-10 at 11:21 PM.
Zip-Tie Alley Racing
LRRS/CCS #103
PPS | Dunlop | Boston Moto | Woodcraft & Armour Bodies | 35 Motorsports | Pit Bull | K&N