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Did anyone ever figure out a LRRS legal belly pan setup that works well with an MX style stand? I know there is the carbon setup out there that's popular, but it doesn't take kindly to being use as a lift point. I suspect I'm going to have to engineer something myself, curious to see what others are doing.
I got by with one of these. All I did was plug the hole. I did end up putting an anti slosh sponge in it eventually since they kept asking me to.
CARBON FIBER SKID PLATES BY ELINE | Products | Parts UnlimitedĀ®
That's the style I think I want, I'll have to poke at some KTM frames to see how close they are to mine on bottom for adaptation. Looks like E-line only covers the aluminum framed YZs which are VERY different on the bottom compared to my antique.
How much of a pain is it to mount/dismount?
Last edited by Kurlon; 04-07-15 at 11:09 AM.
Most including me use a padded front stand and a spool or pad rear stand.
-Christian LRRS/CCS HasBeen ECK Racing
2011 Pit Bike Race CHAMPION!
I can certainly go that route, but I've got a lovely roll on and just walk away center stand setup I've love to be able to retain the use of. It keeps both wheels well up in the air, the front is entirely open and unencumbered for easy wheel swaps, etc. Plus I literally just step off once rolled in and the bike is raised into storage position.
Pit bull in the Rear with the Pad style and cheap under the fork one for the front.... Is how I do my WR
LRRS EX 66
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factoryeffex
Josh,
Check out Hyde skidplates. It is possible they make something that you may be able to make work on the WReck. I use one on my Husky and center stand isn't an issue at all. Might have to seal up a few holes as they are typically made for off road riding but they can be made to work.
Joel
I like the design, thanks for the pointer! They've got a unit they list as fitting YZ250s up to 2004. I'm assuming they intend that to mean 1999 to 2004 as prior is the older (like mine) engine design but I think you're right that it'd be 'close enough' to be viable.
I use the nice carbon belly pan sold on ebay i buy the blemished ones they are like 10 dollars less it fits my wr250x and my kx450 just doesnt work good with mx stand
I bought some fiberglass to repair my bodywork and I keep asking myself "how hard would it be to just make my own...?....?..."
That said, I currently use one of the ebay carbon fiber jobs and a front/rear stand, but I really want to use my MX style stand.
After I bought the stands / pan, I was a little irked to see half the field sitting on normal style skid plates (that no way would hold the fluid the rulebook says you need to) with MX stands and realizing that I could have done that too.
"Where are we going?...and why am I in this handbasket?"
LRRS 919
'12 Ducati 1199 Panigale (track) '08 Honda CRF 250 (ice) '02 KTM 520 SX Supermoto (track)
That, that passes?!I didn't think of using the frame rails for containment, and I thought ziptie mounting was an instant fail. That said, I think I can replicate that. Do you bother taking yours off for tech or is your drain plug easily visible? (Mine's a PITA to find even sans skid plate.)
New tech question - What are you guys using for rim strips? Standard ones are just barely wide enough to cover the spoke ends and are likely going to slide to the side while I'm mounting tires. I'd prefer not to use duct tape if there is a proper wide strip available.
You could check out a manufacturer that sells a street legal 17" spoked wheel for their rim strip part number and buy those.
Husqvarna for example, I happen to have one that's why I looked it up, 17" rim strip for front and rear wheel part number is 8B0082879 Buy it from Hall's Husqvarna in Illinois Store | Hall's Cycles | Springfield Illinois Take the space out of the part number on the link and it will show it to you.
What I have done sometimes is used duct tape but not actually stick it to the rim. I wind up essentially using two pieces to make a strip that is not sticky on either side but protects very well against the spoke nipples. You wind up having to use another small piece to join the ends together as the duct tape isn't stretchy but if done carefully it can be made tight on the wheel.
Good idea, I'm a bit embarrassed to not have thought of that first. Looks like the rear strip for a DRZ-SM is a whopping $5.
Yeah, that's what I'm curious about.....
I'm also looking at it and thinking if I did something similar, some caulking to the frame rails would make it "oil tight" and there are things that could be used instead of zip-ties (like hose clamps) since the rule book specifically calls those out as not being of "workmanship quality"....
"Where are we going?...and why am I in this handbasket?"
LRRS 919
'12 Ducati 1199 Panigale (track) '08 Honda CRF 250 (ice) '02 KTM 520 SX Supermoto (track)
Drag Specialties makes 16" rim strips in a bunch of widths, so I'm going to try a couple of those in 2.25" for $3 while I wait for the Suzuki ones to arrive from back order.
Drin plugs are visible on a CRF so no need to remove it on a
So, Drag Specialties rim strips are the bomb. Being sized for a 16" rim they are a PITA to stretch into place, but they are the perfect width and are made out of thicker rubber than the standard Kenda units. I believe I'm now required to chrome something on the bike, and possibly create an oil leak...