08 CBR Dies at Stop Light

[burtonboarder23]

So today was the 3rd time this has happened. Starts up fine, ride it for a little bit (not super hot) come to a stop light and the bike dies. The first 2 times i was able to get it started again after 30 - 45 seconds. Today while i was out at lunch i came to a stop. The bike temp was about 220* and it died. Couldn't get it started again. Pushed it into a parking lot and let it sit for 20 -30 minutes, before having to push it home i tried to fire it up one more time. Bike started right up. Bike is an 08' CBR 600RR with yosh slip on exhaust and 8 or 9k on the odometer. Thoughts? Most posts I've seen point to the battery but would that cause the bike to die and then not fire for a while then all of a sudden work? Going to check that + fuses and connections tonight.

[butcher bergs]

Don't recall if it was the 600 or the 1000 (or both) but the cam position sensor comes to mind. I recall something about engine heat demagnetizing the sensor...

[Paul_E_D]

See stator thread! lol

[burtonboarder23]

Would the Stator have anything to do with the bike shutting off at a stop light though? Ill swing over and give it a read.

[Paul_E_D]

Not really sure about that one. If the battery dies while riding though..

[burtonboarder23]

So quick update, dug out a meter and tested the battery with the bike off and running. was at 12.5 off and 13 while idling. Going to test the stator later tonight.

[jasnmar]

Doesn't feel like stator to me... If it turns over after dying (but just doesn't hit) I have trouble with it being stator (so that's probably it ).

So by "won't start again" won't turn over, or turns over but never runs? Close to running?

Fuel or ignition is where I would be looking. Is the CBR throttle body injected, or something else?

[R7]

I had the same thing happen to a fuel injected ATV I have...tho obviously not on the road. It would always start up and run when cold, once warm, it would shut off and not start again until it sat for a while and cooled off. I took a wild guess and replaced the ignition coil, and it solved my problem

[MHenry600]

Regulator/rectifier? Sounds like a similar symptom...

[ilikenapalm]

See this thread... for dude at post 24, it was a starter motor... 06 hard to/ wont start after warm - Page 3 : Honda CBR 1000RR Motorcycle Forums: 1000RR.net

May be the same for you?

[burtonboarder23]

Once it dies, when i go to start it again it just tries to turns over and will fire for a brief second before trying to turn over again. Its sort of a 2 part issue... why is it dying to begin with and why wont it start. Kid being a pain didnt give me a chance to get out and do anymore with the bike... hoping to dive in tomorrow and see wtf is going on.

Edit: Going to go over connections tomorrow night and make sure everything is tight and clean. a few people on the 600rr.net forums have pointed to a loose or blown fuse or dirty/loose ground. Figure these are some of the easiest things to check so what the hell.

[oVTo]

Voltage at idle is less important than @ 2-3k rpm. It should go to about 14.6 and stay there. But if the battery is so bad the bike dies, it doesn't seem likely it would recover enough to easily restart the bike 30min later. Or maybe that's around 14.2, above 14.0 and independent of revs once it gets to the charging voltage.

I like the coil theory and it's easier to test than checking all the wiring and connectors for continuity.

I had an almost identical problem on my RC51. Same manufacturer, but different model and year, so probably a different cause. But no harm in checking. My problem was caused by the sidestand cutout switch. I confirmed it by removing the switch and jumping the plug, then riding. The bike stopped dying so I replaced the switch and never had the problem again. If I remember right, it wasn't a thermal problem. It was a mercury switch that when riding vibrated enough to open (or close, I forget if it's NC or NO. After the mercury settled, the switch recovered. Intermittent electrical problems are fun. Good luck!

[burtonboarder23]

So today i got around to just checking that all connections i could put my hands on were tight, just for shits also removed the battery tender adapter from the battery and cleaned up the connections on the battery although they were not dirty at all. The one thing i noticed was the clutch cable was extremely loose... like spinning freely on the lever end. tightened that up and made sure the clutch cable was adjusted properly and went for a decent ride, came back and let the bike idle for a bit so it would come up to 220 and the fan would kick on. Sure enough it kicked on like it was suppose to and the bike kept running. Went for another ride after dinner with a ton of stop signs and red lights with zero issues as well.

[butcher bergs]

With what sounds like a sudden change, you might want to just replace that cable. Could be frayed somewhere

[jasnmar]

It was reasonably warm today so it's good to hear that it behaved well.

The problem certainly could have been a loose connection.

If you think it's good, run it. It's all you can do until you know something more.

[jasnmar]

Bergs concern about the cable is appropriate. I just don't think that would cause the problem you describe.

[burtonboarder23]

Yea I think that was just a oh look an issue... Going to log some miles this weekend and see what happens

[butcher bergs]

It's a bit of a stretch but my thought was the cable frayed a bit which would allow the clutch to drag, even when the lever is pulled. Friction heats the plates, plates expand and drag the engine down.

Obviously nothing more than an internet guess