Brake Bleeding

[Slyder]

I haven't forgotten about this, infact I just called around and found another bottle of RBF600 that I am gonna go get this weekend so I can try the above mentioned technique...then I can purge the fluid left exposed to the atmosphere out of the system after leaving the resevoir uncapped, probably over night.

Also I think I over tightened the rear bleeder and it slowly leaks, ordered another bleeder.

Is there something that should be on the threads? I noticed the stock bleeders had nothing but the speedbleeders came with a thread sealer? already on the threads.

[SSearchVT]

The threads should be clean to prevent anything from getting into the fluid. when they are torqued correctly - they shouldn't leak or loosen. That said - it's never a bad idea to chase all of the nuts and bolts every few months.

[R1]

i put nothing on the threads, just proper torque. Also after thoroughly testing the system with some good panic breaking, the above technique works well.

I left the zip tie on for 4-6 hours and plugged everything up and they work great. the new lines are awesome, definitely less brake feel and more oh shit it stops!

I bled the master cylinder at least 2 times before i bled the calipers then i bled the master cylinder again and then used the ziptie trick.



BTW i didn't use the speedy bleed or ez bleed or whatever its called.

[RyanNicholson]

you wont get a stock radial pumper to feel like the older style masters...(completely anyway) i dealt with this issue as well. also i've never used any kind of thread lock or sealant on bleeders.

but +1 on what everyone else said

[Billy]

Slyder,

I might have some information regarding your slow bleeder leak. It might not actually be a leak at all. See what I discovered:

Odd brake caliper air bleeder valve leak? : Suzuki GSX-R Motorcycle Forums: Gixxer.com

[Slyder]

Thanks billy. I haven't searched the gixxer boards and never saw your post.

Mine wasn't as bad as yours. After the first test ride I noticed a little bit of fluid on the rear caliper (caliper is on top of the swing arm, not below it on the K7 1000) so I figured I didn't tighten the bleeder enough...so I tightened it some more, figuring that should be good. I unfortunately didn't know they don't need to be very tight at all. I cleaned it up and stuff....rode it twice for 295 miles and noticed the top of the caliper has the wet look to it. It's leaking but not much.

So I figured I need a new bleeder and hope the hell I didn't wreck the caliper threads. I can't remember how much fluid I put in the master, but I know it's near the full line...might have too much.

As for the front with the radial master...I figured I'd not get it dialed in like the old style...but I do like the old. Last ride with it as is, some air in the fluid, stainless lines, EBC HH pads.....it did do a one fingered stoppie without a problem...it's a definite improvement over stock.

Should be even better when I get the front end straightened out the rest of the way

[Billy]

Slyder

To make sure it's not leaking and that it's not excess brake fluid caught in the bleeder (which was my issue), spray some brake cleaner down into the hollow area of the bleeder and clean up anything you get coming out. If it still is leaking fluid after that, then you might have a leak.

[Slyder]

I'll do just that...but I already ordered a new bleeder for the rear so I'll put that in, bleed them and not refill the master so much...as well as do what you say after.

Hopefully this weekend I'll score another bottle of fluid and get this done

[akira700]

I have put a small length of teflon tape on my bleeder bolts before and it
seemed to stop the leaking and offer a more pressure proof seal.

[Slyder]

I have put a small length of teflon tape on my bleeder bolts before and it
seemed to stop the leaking and offer a more pressure proof seal.

I was currious about doing that but wasn't sure if the fluid would eat the tape or not. So I figured new bleeder, $5, no big loss.

[Kid Thunder]

If you have the Speedbleeders on the front you have take them off & bleed the calipers with the standard bleeders.
Speedbleeders cannot be used on a completely dry system.
Once you get most of the air out of the system switch back to the Speedbleeders for the final bleed
After that the Speedbleeders make it super easy to the bleed or change the fluid.