Need Help on 95 ZX6R

[NRrice]

I'm getting ready to start my project on a 95 ZX6R that I pick up over the winter. I'll start with a little history about the bike, it's 95 ZX6R-F1 and has 8k on it, that last time it was run was five years ago. From what the previous owner told me, it runs fine after it start, but when you shut it off the bike will not start again. He said he would let it sit one or two months before he would try to start it again, and let will start and run fine but once you turn it off you just can't start it again until a month or two later.

Got my service manual today and was thinking start with checking wires. My question is what else should I looked for while I'm in there. Also dose any know if there are relay inside the junction box on this bike?

Thanks

[stoinkythepig]

The J box should have 2 or 3 relays.

Get it running first, troubleshoot intermittent problems later.

5 years is a long time, it'll surely need an oil change, cooling system flush, gas tank emptied and cleaned, and carburetors cleaned. It'll also probably need the air box de-mouse-nested, new fuel line, and a new air filter.

Once running, it'll need new tires, fork oil changed, steering head bearings greased, swing arm bearings greased.

Buy a factory service manual and a digital multi-meter, you'll need them.

[nhtodd]

Definitely start with cleaning of the carbs and new air filter and general cleaning of everything you can find. A new uni air filter is only 17 bucks from bike bandit thats what I got. Get rid of the old gas and put in a new fuel filter they're 16 bucks from a kawi dealer. Thats where I got mine. Put some new plugs in it and yea new fuel line is definitely good and of course cleaning the tank. This is what I should have done to mine before trying to fire it. If I had cleaned the carbs at least first I probably wouldn't have fried my starter and what ever else I cooked that I'm trying to find. 8k wow I thought I was good with 16k right on man. Checking wires probably wont hurt either but I would do the cleaning first I speak from learnig the hard way lol. We'll get em runnin though and bring back the classics lol

[NRrice]

Ok here's what I've check after work today, using multimeter.....

1. kick stand switch --ok
2. clutch switch --ok
3. kill switch --ok
4. start button--bad connection and now --ok

here's what I did to fix the start button, first took it apart and found bk/red wire coming into switch terminal and one going out. I use the multimeter to check open/close when the button is push and clearly it was open (not making contact). Now when I first open it up the button box there were spider web inside it where the spring and where the two contact points. I blew it out using air cans but still no contact, next I use 400 grit sand paper fold it small enough strip so I can sand (go back forth) between the two connections points, and while I was sanding back and forth paper is between the two contact points I push down on the start button lightly, I want to make sure the contact is nice and clean. I sand off all black stuff that was on contact point. I've sanded lightly until I see copper/brass and no air gap between the contact then I stop.

Now I have good contact and every time I push the start button I get voltage to loop back out, not sure where that wire is going yet, that the next step.

[NRrice]

I have the service manual (got it today) and multimeter, I also bought gas filter new battery, new plugs I'll be putting that in this weekend. As for the gas tank and the carb it been sitting bone dry all this time.

My bike problem sounds like nhtodd's bike when push the start button not thing happen, that's why I'm starting with the ignition system.

[nhtodd]

Right on man glad to see your making progress and the carbs and tank was dry thats a huge help. Keep it up. I'm so working on my bike this weekend. I got to keep up with you. lol

[stoinkythepig]

My bike problem sounds like nhtodd's bike when push the start button not thing happen, that's why I'm starting with the ignition system.

May want to re-think that and start with the starting system... The factory manual should have a full schematic and a smaller one that only shows starting system stuff. It makes it much easier to sort out.

[NRrice]

yes I will only put the new parts in when I can get it to turn over.

I've also have a chance to open up the J-box and your are right (stoinkythepig) there are to relay in there. one for the starter circuit and the other is head light. Check both of the relay and they are ok.

Checking the relay, I use 9v battery to supply voltage to the pin of the relay and I can hear it clicking, that how I can tell if it working or not. Now there may be other method out there people use.

[stoinkythepig]

yes I will only put the new parts in when I can get it to turn over.

I've also have a chance to open up the J-box and your are right (stoinkythepig) there are to relay in there. one for the starter circuit and the other is head light. Check both of the relay and they are ok.

Checking the relay, I use 9v battery to supply voltage to the pin of the relay and I can hear it clicking, that how I can tell if it working or not. Now there may be other method out there people use.

Relays usually fail at the high power contacts, not the coil. You need to be sure the contacts have continuity when the coil is energized.

[NRrice]

Ok I'll double check tonight with little more juice is 12v good I also don't want to fry anything else in the process.

[nhtodd]

ok wait a minute the starter relay is in the junction box? The box with all the fuses right? Somehow I missed that. I'm just asking cause I'm going to work on her this weekend and focusing on electrical testing. obviously I missed that part lol

[stoinkythepig]

ok wait a minute the starter relay is in the junction box? The box with all the fuses right? Somehow I missed that. I'm just asking cause I'm going to work on her this weekend and focusing on electrical testing. obviously I missed that part lol

There are two relays in the starting circuit. A little one in the J box and a bigger one that activates the starter directly.

[nhtodd]

Yeah after I wrote that last post I pulled out the manual and started studying and lo and behold there was everything I needed to test the starting system. Hopefully it'll be a productive weekend.

[NRrice]

rock on man and good luck this weekend, take your time and do one thing at a time, don't for get to up date the post and I'll do the same.

[nhtodd]

Oh I will and if she comes to life I'm goin to go nuts lol

[NRrice]

Finally some sign of live, I got my zx6r to fire up today, after long day of wires, relay and all the wire connector testing, I finally got the bike to turn over. Next I've put in new plugs, new fuel filter, new battery and fresh gas into the tank (about 2 gallon) and start it up, it took me me two or three tries before it start. After it start the first 30 second or so it smokes like crazy and after couple minute the smoke cleared give it couples of rev and shut her down. Now that my ignition system is all set tomorrow I'll clean out the carb. I've look some pictures of the J-box open when I had it open, but I don't know how to add them here.

[stoinkythepig]

Glad to hear you got it to fire up. Next time you need to start it with dry fuel bowls, put it in gear, leave the clutch out, and hit the starter button. This will make the fuel pump run for as long as the button is pressed (or until the bowls are full) but not the starter. This does not apply to to the ZX6 AFAIK, only the ZX6R (and ZX9R).

[nhtodd]

Right on man now I really got to get mine going. Unfortunately I didn't get to go work on mine today gotta get my car registered first. I'm going to be all over it next weekend though. Especially since you got yours running now lol. If you need any carb cleaning stuff just let me know I have a gallon can of carb dip with the basket that works great for the jets and such.

[NRrice]

Glad to hear you got it to fire up. Next time you need to start it with dry fuel bowls, put it in gear, leave the clutch out, and hit the starter button. This will make the fuel pump run for as long as the button is pressed (or until the bowls are full) but not the starter. This does not apply to to the ZX6 AFAIK, only the ZX6R (and ZX9R).

That's cool tips thanks, but why it doesn't apply to ZX6 AFAIK? what dose AFAIK stand fore?

[stoinkythepig]

That's cool tips thanks, but why it doesn't apply to ZX6 AFAIK? what dose AFAIK stand fore?

It don't think the ZX6 has a fuel pump, it's just gravity fed.

AFAIK= as far as I know.

[NRrice]

Right on man now I really got to get mine going. Unfortunately I didn't get to go work on mine today gotta get my car registered first. I'm going to be all over it next weekend though. Especially since you got yours running now lol. If you need any carb cleaning stuff just let me know I have a gallon can of carb dip with the basket that works great for the jets and such.

Hey nhtodd Thanks for the offer, yesterday after I hook up the fuel tank I added 1gallon of fresh fuel also added seaform into the tank (not sure the ratio but its on the can) and let it run until the fuel ran out. added an other gallon (same mix ratio) and that for a while, rev it up after bike got warm seem to be running pretty smooth turn it off and let it sit I'll start it up again after work tonight.

[NRrice]

It don't think the ZX6 has a fuel pump, it's just gravity fed.

AFAIK= as far as I know.

Thanks make sense

[NRrice]

The J box should have 2 or 3 relays.

Get it running first, troubleshoot intermittent problems later.

5 years is a long time, it'll surely need an oil change, cooling system flush, gas tank emptied and cleaned, and carburetors cleaned. It'll also probably need the air box de-mouse-nested, new fuel line, and a new air filter.

Once running, it'll need new tires, fork oil changed, steering head bearings greased, swing arm bearings greased.

Buy a factory service manual and a digital multi-meter, you'll need them.

Any tips on changing fork oil?

[nhtodd]

Changing fork oil isn't that bad just have to measure how much oil from the top of the fork is in there usually in millimeters or could be milliliters,dang it now I'm going to have to go check cause it bugs me I don't know lol. The manual should give you the specs for it I would hope. I haven't looked at that section yet but I know I will. How's she runnin by the way? The oil viscosity is usually personal preference after the base factory recommendation.

[stoinkythepig]

best bet is to follow the manual. They are not hard to do, but there's a few steps that need to be followed.

Don't go overboard with a fork oil weight increase thinking you'll improve the handling unless you know for sure that it's too soft. Some Kawasaki sport bikes of that era were over-damped in OEM form. My 01 9R had too much compression damping. My clickers front and rear are backed all the way out.