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Well I guess it's personal preference.... a gearing change of -1 +4 has changed your gear ratio by over 15%... that means you'll be shifting a lot more often, wasting more gas, etc... if you normally cruise at 8krpm on the highway, instead youll be cruising at say 9500. that extra buzziness gets annoying after a while.
It's not about not needing the top speed for me, it's about comfort and drivabilityThen again, I don't have a street bike anymore
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Zip-Tie Alley Racing
LRRS/CCS #103
PPS | Dunlop | Boston Moto | Woodcraft & Armour Bodies | 35 Motorsports | Pit Bull | K&N
Yeah it does make me shift more. But an inline 4 1k is a bike that don't need to be shifted much in stock trim. And even with the change I shift less on the FZ than I do on the 650 twin. It only went from about 5200 to 6100 at 80 MPH
Also my millage hasn't really changed. But I then again I look at smiles per gallon more![]()
Last edited by Wishbone; 09-09-09 at 08:45 AM.
~ Life passes most people by while they're busy making grand plans for it.~
i was saying in regards to him not having a streetbike anymore, not your discussion on chain and sprockets
how bout you go be asomewhere else when it comes to that stuff and not take everything as a personal attack on this thread or on you
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http://www.bostonmoto.com/shop/index...duct_list&c=51
we sell drivetrain items
Well, I went and changed the tension on the chain over the weekend.
Changing the chain tension on a SSSA is actually pretty easy.
1. Put VFR on center stand (this was actually the most difficult part, but I got the technique down now -- My first bike, 93 Ninja ZX6 had one, and my g/f's Ninja 250 has one... but the VFR is the heaviest bike, so far, I have tried to put on a center stand. It is all about the technique!)
2. Loosen the pinch bolt.
3. Use supplied tool to adjust tension (checking for chain slack @ various spots)
4. Tighten pinch bolt.
Now I'm okay... for now. I'm going to need a new chain and sprocket set - tightening the chain doesn't change the fact it's got rust on it, and I'm also at the point where the little dummy indicator on my chain guard says "time for a new chain."
Should I do it now, or wait till the new season...?
- HP
Last edited by hqp921; 09-15-09 at 10:36 AM.
If you don't already have one, get yourself a Grunge Brush and a good cleaner (I use Motul Chain Clean) and scrub some of that rust off. As long as the chain isn't binding you should be fine until you get a replacement.
Any local dealers have 'em? I tried to clean the chain a bit, but the Grunge Brush would make it easier.
I feel like if I can get a fresh set of sprockets and chain on there, I can at least start from a good point.
I had to scrape gunk off the center stand that had been flung on there... probably from years of riding and not good cleaning.
I don't need it to be spotless, but it was kinda gross.
- HP
Right down the street from me. Literally. I rode my buggered SV to them to fix.
True to Woonsocket fashion, some kids on the side of the road were making the wheelie motion (while I'm right behind a box truck, no less). Guess they didn't notice the front of my bike was smashed up...
- HP
Zip-Tie Alley Racing
LRRS/CCS #103
PPS | Dunlop | Boston Moto | Woodcraft & Armour Bodies | 35 Motorsports | Pit Bull | K&N
What's going on hurr?
Should I not go to Denno?![]()
he's good with a tool in his hand
Like John & I explained earlier in this thread, it's the size of the chain and the strength it has.
A 530 is the heaviest chain and can supposedly handle more stress put on it. It is the normal stock size for a liter bike.
People do the 520 conversion for weight savings, but supposedly, they do not last as long on a larger CC bike due to the stress the higher torque motors put on the chain.
I use 525 on the 900 and the current chain has 16K miles on it and is still in the mid-green area of the chain guide on the bike.