0


anyone have on the of the cheap 1/4" clickers? (like this or this?
I've got a 1/2" torque wrench that I picked up from a cheap tool supplier a while back (one of those "truckload tool sales" where they unload an 18-wheeler or two for a day at a conference center or similar and sell stuff) that's worked rather well, so it's rather tempting...but the cheap one I got on fleabay was completely off, so...thoughts? Pointers for other cheap options also appreciated.
For the amount you're likely to use it (as in, not everyday like a professional tech), then either one of those will be fine. Just take good care of them. Keep it in the box when you're not using it. Always back it off all the way when you're done using it. Never use it to loosen fasteners. It's not a regular ratchet.
LRRS/CCS Amateur #514 / RSP Racing / Woodcraft / MTAG Pirelli / Dyno Solutions / Tony's Track Days / Sport Bike Track Gear / 434racer / Brunetto T-Shirts / Knox / GMD Computrack
Sears, at least in the Rutvegas Mall, does not have any 1/4" drive torque wrenches, whether they be beam-type or clicker-type; the website shows a KD Tools beam-type wrench for $53.99, an Armstrong for $80-something, and up from there. That, and the clicker-type wrenches are far easier to operate on some bolts (since you don't have to see the gauge on them as you're applying torque).
Thanks for the replies.
That range is good (20-200in-lbs) for a decent amount of small fasteners.
+1 GixerJockey really summed it up.
Check with Bond Auto or a Fisher Auto Parts store if you got one near you down there. I picked up my 1/2" for $20 or so last year at Bond.
The Bond here doesn't carry a 1/4" drive; they do have a 120-960 in-lbs (i.e. 10-80 ft-lbs) 3/8" drive that I bought a couple weeks ago in that price range.
I did order the 1/4" drive torque wrench from Amazon, along with a set of 3/8" long-reach hex sockets (damned smart computers, suggesting other stuff I might want).
Personally I would stay away from the clicker type. They have a tendency to go out of calibration over time. The beam do also but no where near as fast.
agreed.
beam type is inherently a better tool. and if it gets out of calibration, you just repoint the pointer to zero.
i always used a 1/2 drive clicker for the things that needed to be in the ballpark, 1/2 drive beam for things like torque to yield head bolts, a 3/8 clicker for smaller, less critical torque down tasks(or blind access torque down)and 3/8 beam type for the small precise stuff
Get out while you can
Find your own path