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Set up the new air filter with the No-Toil system right from the start. It's easier to clean the filters and you don't have a toxic mess when your done. I have 3 filters in rotation so I can clean all 3 at the same time.
Ok... I see they make oil... I don't see anything about a 'system'? Is this like Amway? Am I going to have to get you guys to buy 70 filters so I get a free filter?
The "system" is the oil and a tube of grease. The grease is for a rim job.
They make a cleaner as well. Most of us just clean with Borax powder or laundry soap with Oxy clean in a 5 gallon bucket of water. I thin the oil with a little rubbing alcohol to make it easier to work into the filter.
Last edited by Fast_Eddie; 06-02-10 at 05:40 PM.
Show and tell time. First up is the air filter, nowhere NEAR as bad as I was expecting. Sticky as all hell, inside didn't look too bad, and the airbox appears to be clean after the filter.
Next is my exhaust which is staying in place by sheer force of habit. None of the mounts are in use save for the last one that's just phoning it in. Two sets of bushings, some bolts, and that'll be much better.
Wirelessly posted (BB Tour: BlackBerry9630/5.0.0.591 Profile/MIDP-2.1 Configuration/CLDC-1.1 VendorID/105)
Remember that motosport.com is your friend at times like these! And if you need a hand let me know.
-Brian
15 S-Works Venge
The rear wheel came off fairly easily, all things considered. The axle nut was VERY dry at first but eventually came off without resorting to big tools. One chain adjuster bolt just fell out, the swingarm will need to be helicoiled on that side. The other bolt came out dry, swingarm threads are good, bolt needs to be tossed.
The frame on the other hand shows some serious signs of abuse. The first pic shows the type of issues I'm up against. Blow out a welded nut? No problem, big washer and nut on a much bigger bolt will do, right?
The swingarm pivot is worse. You remember me noting one side wasn't tightened down? That isn't QUITE correct. The second pic shows what I first saw, turns out that isn't even the right pivot bolt, and the frame has had a portion busted off. Instead of nuts on each end, the OEM pivot bolt had an oval shaped 'top hat' at one end that fit into a recess in the frame, acting as a captive retainer. At some point someone managed to blow out a chunk of frame allowing that pivot bolt to spin, I'm guessing an impact wrench and beer were involved?
Question now is how do I fix it? The current setup isn't safe, you can't properly tighten down the pivot bolt, and without some welding an OEM bolt won't function in that mess either.
Other finds:
Swingarm/linkage bushings are all done - you all correctly called that one.
One bolt on the rear brake master is nearly stripped, that'll be fun to remove.
I'm also not 100% convinced this is a WR250. The tank, seat and shrouds are wrong as have already been noted, and the swingarm doesn't have bosses to bolt the optional kickstand to on the side? I dunno if this is a YZ250 with a donor motor, a YZ converted WR or what. Any way to nail that down?
One more mystery solved, pics say it's a 1992 WR250, VIN confirms. Now I have to re-lookup all those GD part numbers again... bah! : )
No idea what the swingarm is, as a 1992 WR250 should have a pair of bolt bosses for a side stand, and the chain adjusters are snail style... guessing YZ250?
Last edited by Kurlon; 06-02-10 at 07:57 PM.
ahhh, familiar territory...old bikes FTW!
I "bought" a 1999 RM125 until I was told by the registry that it's a 1998 model upon getting my off-road plate
not as bad as mine, but get the no-toil, or new to keep that new top end running clean
whoever owned your bike, must've owned mine because I also had some hack job fasteners that resulted in warped holes and parts hanging on by a thread. I'm sure most people will tell you to fetch whatever you need from your local hardware store, but I'm a fan of making a list and ordering all oem bolts. But no big deal, it doesn't matter either way...
how strong is the piece that's left? and what does it attach to?
ha...I must've jinxed your swing arm chain adjuster bolts, sorry
hmm...I can't really tell from that photo, but if it's anything like my bike, than whatever you have right there, should be enough. when I get home, I'll check my bike, but I think the section that's missing is just part of the OEM cut of the frame. The pivot bolt cap is pretty flat, and should fit into the recess without spinning.
this is one from an FZ, but shows how flat the swing arm pivot bolt cap can be:
maybe you can see it on mine:
either way, the nut shouldn't sit on that side...the previous owner put it in backwards
I'm not sure about the correct way to do this, but I'd start by looking at pictures of the parts on ebay and the microfiche.
Last edited by breakdirt916; 06-02-10 at 09:30 PM.
I just did some research on eBay, and it looks like one of two things has occurred. Either everyone has busted their frame at the swingarm pivot in exactly the same way, or I misread what I was seeing and my frame is fine. I like option #2, so that's what I'm going with. I still need to order a swingarm pivot bolt though... What's there now is not the OEM bolt, not sure what it was sourced from, but it's far from right.
alright i have a dirt question and just saw this so figured some of u cool dirt guys can help me out. I got a 00' yz125 think the kickstart shaft like return hook broke on it (notorious yz problem). anyhow i cant get my right side engine cover off. I took out all the bolts from the clutch cover, right side engine cover, and coolent pump. I also relised theres a little spring thing to release the clutch or something i got that out. still cant pull the engine cover off.
#1 i think it might be stuck hitting the pipe
#2 i think it might be getting stuck on the seal around the kick start shaft.
Kurlon, Look-up pro-tek bolt kits on ebay. I bought one for my KDX and it had better than oem versions of all those nice 8m flange bolts, caliper bolts, carb bolts, everything.
You've scored a basket case there.
mtocrossnut: Have you tried tapping it with a heavy rubber mallet? That should at least show you where it's hanging up.
ya dude what Paul said, get the pipe and kickstarter/etc out of the way and tap all sides of the case with a rubber mallet. you should start to see it walk itself off, the gaskets will be pesky and not come off easy.
Kurlon- ya if that filter isn't ripped and shitty clean it in gas quickly and then use notoil oil/cleaner from that point on. I have a pale I use just for filter cleaning and put the notoil cleaner in and clean 4 filters in like 10 minutes, and in my kitchen! it does rule.
LRRS #399
MX #505
Anyone tried using the plastic welding kits Parts Unlimited and Tucker Rockey carry? Basically a gussied up soldering iron and plastic 'welding rods'? I'm wondering if that would be the best way to replace the one buggered up captive nut I have in my gas tank?
The protek bolt kit looks killer, I just may have to snag one of those. I also found Maier has some of my plastics on close out, something to keep an eye on.
here is some info kurlon
http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/sho...t=melt+plastic
LRRS #399
MX #505
ya I have a 19" rear you can have but I figure your rear is probably 18"
LRRS #399
MX #505
on the tank bolt, i've had that in the past as well. i tried the plastic putty route but it only held temporarily. i would suggest a good plastic friendly epoxy as mentioned in Seth's link. roughing up the area and creating some sort of 'grab points' will help keep it in place as you will be 'pulling' on it when tightening down the shroud bolt. anti-seize is a must. keep the bolt threads clean and smooth so you dont yank it out upon disassembly in the future.
the metal putty stuff works good for holding subframe nutserts and recessed bolts in as well. i had to use some on my Husky when it was brand new, still holding like a champ after tons of disassembly.
same here on a rear tire, if it's 19" i gots a free Pirelli hanging on the wall.
Last edited by typeone; 06-03-10 at 08:35 AM.
Beta 200RR
I do? I didn't think they looked all that bad? Remember, I'm also total super noob so I dunno if I could tell the difference between a new tire and a shagged out teflon donut strapped in place of a tire.
18" rear, 21" front. Dunlop D756s at both ends.
Edit: Took the shrouds off, this isn't the first time this bike's been a project, one radiator is marked '92 YZ250', the other '89 YZ250'. Are there such a thing as dirtbike salvage yards?
Last edited by Kurlon; 06-03-10 at 11:40 AM.
yup. a friend of mine is good friends with these guys: Sky Cycle Salvage no clue if they would have stuff you need but worth a shot, i would call rather than use the website.
Beta 200RR
motocross nut: it should fit snugly, but it should (if coming exactly straight, when removed from the bike) at least break loose. I can't tell if something is in the way that you might be missing, can you take a picture? Also, on one of my bikes, the oil filler cap is on the right side engine cover. Take it out, and it gives you an extra point to gently (note: GENTLY!) pull from as your tapping it with a rubber mallet.
K: it seems like everyone got the gas tank bolt sorted out, so the only other personal notes I'd add are:
-I don't know how much less noob you are than I am (because I certainly can't tell the difference b/w a good and bad tire), but I would recommend against a new tire just now unless it's free
-I haven't had good luck w' dirt bike salvage yards (sky included)...they usually don't have that particular part you're looking for because everyone else wants the same parts, and they're probably already sold. I recommend you scour fleabay and search craigslist for the ones you want.
-others might say no because it's towards the end of your list, but I say good deals on old bike parts don't last, so buy the plastics now if they're cheap (but let us know the price before you pull the trigger)
-hooray! the frame's not busted!
-Paul's right...you might be in a similar boat as myself with this bike...
So, plan for the weekend is to suss out the motor after making a couple no parts needed chassis repairs. I need a helicoil/timesert for the swingarm, I'm going to try cleaning the one bad captive nut in the tank with a tap, and flush the brakes. Then it gets shoved uncerimonially back together with a clean airfilter and carb, fresh gas, and we'll just see what it does, shot bearings, bushings and all.
Anyone have a guide/etc for the powervalve assembly? I figure while I'm cleaning the carb and air filter it wouldn't hurt to clean and lube it as well. Seems to be a common sore spot on two strokes?
Last edited by Kurlon; 06-04-10 at 06:49 AM.
what do you mean sore spot, like needs to be cleaned alot or broken?
LRRS #399
MX #505