typeone's Beta build (250RR)

[butcher bergs]

Vibration causes cracks and breaks at solder joints, that's why you'll never see solder joints in proper vehicle wiring harnesses. A proper crimp connection is solid. Heatshrink over it provides environmental protection.

I'm not sure this is entirely true. Proper tinning eliminates stress cracks and, if done correctly, will end up a more robust connection than crimping. Crimping is, however, far more economical when compared to soldering and I believe that's the attraction to it.

I've seen what some people consider "soldering". It's not balling up wads of solder onto wires until they stick together. That is what will result in cracked solder joints.

[Chippertheripper]

I use solder for wires in my harness. No insulation.

[loudbeard]

I went to MMI. I know what I’m doing here chief.

[typeone]

I'd love to borrow that crimper setup and redo it some day.

you're more than welcome to borrow it, just shout!

-----

well shit, i'm not thinking about the solder joints again then, seems they will be fine. i'm far from a pro at it but they looked good to me. tried to go minimal, joint was secure + two layers of adhesive shrink.

[typeone]

all this dirty talk reminded me i had a mistress to fondle back into commission.. .



no visuals:

- refreshed all carb tubing, added drain loop, T-d upper vents and routed under tank
- fresh front brake bleed
- fresh front sprocket + master link
- tuned the slop out of my MME clutch lever
- installed oversized clutch slave assembly from the 350RR Race edition (larger piston) w/fresh 5.1 fluid
- blue anodized brake banjos replaced OEM switched banjos
- re-lined the battery box with foam to help hold the smaller lithium batt in place, getting some case wear
- fresh grips 'n donuts
- fresh filter

visuals:

- need to finish drawing this w/ color-coding but the harness is very simple now



- finally got the EE rad guards mounted up. the regulator interferred, had to cut a pin that mates with hole in the frame. there is an 8mm bolt but i used some thick double-sided 3M tape to help secure it.



- pegs and brake tip are rounding off, undecided on pegs but went with a Hammerhead tip



- oversized water impeller kit from Boano to help with those times i cook the bike like an idiot on a nasty hill
- side note: OEM basket still looks great, did not measure plates



- Boano kit comes with a nice anodized spacer as well



- XTRIG preload adjuster because Josh picked on me for chewing on the preload rings



- complete w/ 5.4kg Cannon Racecraft rear spring



- fresh OEM rear pads + Galfer disc + fresh bleed



- pipe has been interfering in a few spots after wrecks. clearance for the rad and shroud



- and skid plate/frame



later today:

- coolant system flush with distilled water + vinegar
- Engine Ice
- fresh Amsoil 10w40
- compression test
- rip the yard to find out where i fucked up

---

RIDE IT sunday.

[Kurlon]

- XTRIG preload adjuster because Josh picked on me for chewing on the preload rings

Hah, sure, use me as the excuse for a nice piece of bling, I'm OK with that... How much does it weigh compared to the normal lock rings, and how well does it work for you so far?

[typeone]

Hah, sure, use me as the excuse for a nice piece of bling, I'm OK with that... How much does it weigh compared to the normal lock rings, and how well does it work for you so far?

... did not do a weight comparison but would have been interesting. it's an amazing little device. 8mm socket + Makita low power drill = blissssss

speaking of this area, i searched like hell to find a thrust bearing kit, like the one from Pivot Works, to fit the Sachs. really wanted to test one out but couldn't find anything other than building one from random SKF parts bins. i've heard they make initial travel really buttery. sounds nice for daChop.

[breakdirt916]

Wow, just wow

I this thread

Really shows the exquisite love and care that goes into this bike/owner relationship

Super trick stuff like the pre load adjuster

[aldend123]

- XTRIG preload adjuster because Josh picked on me for chewing on the preload rings

- complete w/ 5.4kg Cannon Racecraft rear spring

Oh that thing looks nice. I've been playing with my preload lately and with enough preload and grime on the threads, I haven't been able to rotate the spring by hand. Hammering the fuck out of it one notch at a time gets old fast. Didn't know that product existed. Just finished putting a 5.4 in the other night. In a way, maybe it's a good thing that I didn't know about it.

[typeone]

I this thread

thnx, dude

Oh that thing looks nice. I've been playing with my preload lately and with enough preload and grime on the threads, I haven't been able to rotate the spring by hand. Hammering the fuck out of it one notch at a time gets old fast. Didn't know that product existed. Just finished putting a 5.4 in the other night. In a way, maybe it's a good thing that I didn't know about it.

keep an eye peeled, i found one cheap(er) on the Amazons for $148 but i've also seen them closer to $100. still steep though for something that gets used infrequently. i'm always playing with sag (because i like beer) so this will be a very welcome addition.

agree on the hammering getting old, the Motion Pro Spanner Punch is a nice upgrade if you don't have one. ~$15 well spent.

[Sideshow]

Very nice! Can’t wait to see that little princess on Sunday.

[typeone]

Very nice! Can’t wait to see that little princess on Sunday.

i'll be easy to find, just look for the bright pink skirt ... wOOFa, gonna hurt so good

[Tekime]

Just beautiful

[aldend123]

still steep though for something that gets used infrequently.

That's why I'm kinda glad I already put it the new spring in. Otherwise I might be tempted.

the Motion Pro Spanner Punch is a nice upgrade if you don't have one. ~$15 well spent.

I have one, but I think I would have been happier with Tusk's. Their tip is more screw-driver shaped. The MotionPro's blunted tip protects the collar better but makes it harder to hold in position. Especially for repeated hits. I probably should file the tip down to give it an angle.

[typeone]

she done good, real good ... the Enduro Spec cartridge kit is shockingly better than the revalved Sachs i was running last season. no drama, straight track. wild.

[breakdirt916]

Perfect

[Paul_E_D]

Drool worthy

she done good, real good ... the Enduro Spec cartridge kit is shockingly better than the revalved Sachs i was running last season. no drama, straight track. wild.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[typeone]

thnx, doods i'm dying to ride again!

i lost 15lbs and went up a hair in spring rate on the shock, it felt a tiny bit choppy, hoping i can tune that out. we set the sag to 96mm but i need to check it again. that XTRIG preload adjuster is just stupid easy to make tweaks with. so fast.

new Sicass start/kill switch worked great, love having one simple switch on the left and that's it.

the oversized clutch slave also worked mint. buttery clutch action. compared it to another Beta with the MME lever only, def a difference in feel.

also tested out some Scott Prospect goggles. they're like a cheaper version of the Oakley Airbrake with super wide FOV. there is almost no foam around the nose area, felt great, much easier to breathe than the VonZipper Porkchops i've been wearing. those have super thick foam, great for no sweat drips but my nose gets pinched off a little. gonna try the light sensitive lens in the Prospects, should be nice in the woods.

[typeone]

X strip forks down, inspect, refresh
X send out shock for revalve + refresh
X inspect steering bearings, i have play ... play ended up being fork bushings, not bearings
X replace front wheels bearings, rear were junk mid-season
X replace linkage bearings
X replace upper shock bearing
X inspect + grease swingarm bearings (may replace)
X repack silencer
X replace chain slider + rear guide
X inspect harness hacks for rub, all has been fine
X replace busted fork guard
X may try new pegs
X replace countershaft seal, it's weeping
X replace countershaft sprocket
X replace chain, it's getting shabby
. replace clutch plates
X replace front axle
X replace rear axle
X check compression
. updated 2018 plastics + graphics
X fresh gripz

[typeone]

started breaking the bike down a bit...

first step was s compression test, she blew a ~210, 195 and 205, good numbers for the S3 high-comp head and thinner base gasket i'm running. top end was refreshed two season ago. bike has amazing torque on slow climbs, been loving the current setup. i've also been running 87 or 89 octane with Amsoil Interceptor at 40:1 consistently.



next was to start inspecting the forks. my play up front isn't the steering bearings, it's the forks when fully extended. i can't remember if i had any play at all when new but the bushings and seals were refreshed last winter. i'll be doing new seals and bushings again, see how it pans out.

BUT, i was super pscyhed to see CLEAN OIL. the outer tube hard coat i had done is working well, no ano shedding. aces.

[typeone]

oh, funny story during the first compression test. i performed three tests, first 2 with the e-start and last with kicker. i forgot i had the wash plug in the silencer, while boosting the bike up to 210 the fucker rocketed out of the silencer splattering spooge all over the wall and celing in my "office"! what a mess ... idiot ... def have to repack that thing this winter, it's soaked, meant to last season.

[Sideshow]

Nice! You were concerned about that coating holding up.

I wonder how the redesigned Sachs ZF forks are for ‘19.
They supposedly fixed the anodizing issues.

[typeone]

Nice! You were concerned about that coating holding up.

I wonder how the redesigned Sachs ZF forks are for ‘19.
They supposedly fixed the anodizing issues.

yeah, i had no clue how much actual wear vs just anodizing i was seeing in the black oil. it's obvious that hard coat is working well. oil is crystal clear now.

speaking of these old Sachs, i'm going to send my current settings to Warren at Enduro Spec to see if i should remove a little preload. i feel like the front could get a hair more plush, i'm still not using full travel. i also went with a mix of 2.5 + 5wt oil, if i remember correctly. might just run 2.5wt next season. just general tuning though, they're still MOUNTAINS better than the previous setup.

on the new ZF's, i haven't read much feedback yet but yes, i believe Beta/Sachs finally owned up to the anodizing issue. i asked Steve at PlusOne if i could run '19 outer tubes with my '13/ES internals, think the answer was yes so that's an option should the tubes be out of spec.

[Sideshow]

You should just do the KYB swap and be done with it.

[typeone]

You should just do the 200RR swap and be done with it.

FTFY