heated gear?

[Chippertheripper]

30's in the morning and have not tapped into the heated stuff yet.

although cold tires and freshly damp roads = loose rear end and skidding stops

Me neither, but I want heated gloves badly....

[RandyO]

although cold tires and freshly damp roads = loose rear end and skidding stops

that's hamfistedness on your part

[MattR302]

if you go buy one of the kits you put under regular grips don't go with the tusk (could be other names for it) one where there is a resistor. first off i don't like the 'low' setting just putting out heat elswhere (resistor) and secondly the pads are of a lesser quality.

something like this is the kind i'd recommend:

http://www.casporttouring.com/cst/motorcycle/16011.html

if you replace the resistor with a 2-pin flasher relay, it pulses the heaters on and off (like a turn signal, duh) for a low setting, this saving ~50% power.

Can't comment on the quality of the pads, but I just put those Symtec's on my FZ, and have a set of Cycle Gear Trackside brand ones to go on my DR.

[nhbubba]

something like this is the kind i'd recommend:

http://www.casporttouring.com/cst/motorcycle/16011.html

i tapped directly into the headlight line for the vmax and the fan line for the hawk.

I bought a kit like that off fleabay for like $5. I took the money I 'saved' on that purchase and invested in a nice Warm 'n Safe hard-mount controller for the grips. This is (IIRC) an adjustable switching supply, not a resistor. So theoretically my draw is lower when I turn the heat down.

The $5 heating elements were a temporary solution. Although they have worked okay. 2 seasons later and they are only marginally heating now. They were never as effective as I hoped as I mounted them under the grips which have grip-puppies on them. So there is a lot of material between my paws and the heating elements.

I may cheap out again and get another $5 set and mount them between the grips and the grip-puppies this time. $5 every couple of seasons is reasonable money.

[Chippertheripper]

This just in:
http://www.motorcyclegear.com/street...er_gloves.html

$188 with free shipping and a $30 gift card. Fuck.

[stoinkythepig]

if you go buy one of the kits you put under regular grips don't go with the tusk (could be other names for it) one where there is a resistor. first off i don't like the 'low' setting just putting out heat elswhere (resistor)

If that extra heat is not going to the resistor, it simply goes to the regulator. Most of our bikes have permanent magnet charging systems that waste excess power as heat. That resistor might actually prolong the life of your regulator. Oddly, the typical motorcycle charging system is happiest and will last longest when output power from the regulator is at max power. That said, if you need that power elsewhere because of other loads, then a resistor-based low setting is not desirable.

[e30addict]

This just in:
http://www.motorcyclegear.com/street...er_gloves.html

$188 with free shipping and a $30 gift card. Fuck.

$116

http://www.motorcyclecloseouts.com/s...c+rider+gloves

[Chippertheripper]

I can't tell if those cone with the wiring and junk...

[e30addict]

My guess would be probably not. Which is the better deal would depend on if you already had the bike wired or not.

[Chippertheripper]

I don't. But it's coming. It's inevitable.

[e30addict]

Best investment on accessories I ever made.

Ride until they salt the roads; bike usually comes back out in March sometime. Nice and comfy.

[nt650hawk]

This just in:
http://www.motorcyclegear.com/street...er_gloves.html

$188 with free shipping and a $30 gift card. Fuck.

I have those. well maybe the first gen ones.

[Chippertheripper]

Gloves only, just called.

[nt650hawk]

Gloves only, just called.

mine came with the cables and controller. Ted treated us well.

[nhbubba]

I gotta figure out sizes. I think I'm going to pull the trigger on Firstgear stuff from MC closeouts. This looks like the jacket for me.

[gamorg02]

if you replace the resistor with a 2-pin flasher relay, it pulses the heaters on and off (like a turn signal, duh) for a low setting, this saving ~50% power.

Can't comment on the quality of the pads, but I just put those Symtec's on my FZ, and have a set of Cycle Gear Trackside brand ones to go on my DR.

not a bad idea. the symtecs are on the vmax and work well. i put the 'tusk' ones on the hawk and the leads snapped twice on me, i tried a replacement set and they are good so far but put extra tape around where the leads are.

I bought a kit like that off fleabay for like $5. I took the money I 'saved' on that purchase and invested in a nice Warm 'n Safe hard-mount controller for the grips. This is (IIRC) an adjustable switching supply, not a resistor. So theoretically my draw is lower when I turn the heat down.

The $5 heating elements were a temporary solution. Although they have worked okay. 2 seasons later and they are only marginally heating now. They were never as effective as I hoped as I mounted them under the grips which have grip-puppies on them. So there is a lot of material between my paws and the heating elements.

I may cheap out again and get another $5 set and mount them between the grips and the grip-puppies this time. $5 every couple of seasons is reasonable money.

yea not a bad idea with the adjuster and i couldn't imagine mine working well either with grip puppes. I just have one layer of rubber grips over each (oury on the hawk, stock on vmax).

If that extra heat is not going to the resistor, it simply goes to the regulator. Most of our bikes have permanent magnet charging systems that waste excess power as heat. That resistor might actually prolong the life of your regulator. Oddly, the typical motorcycle charging system is happiest and will last longest when output power from the regulator is at max power. That said, if you need that power elsewhere because of other loads, then a resistor-based low setting is not desirable.

not sure i explained myself well. I took the resistor circuit right off as i didn't want to hide a .25"x.25" x 4" box that could get who knows how hot when the system was on low. I prefer the non-resistor setup as they actually have a different path (i assume shorter length of wire) through the grips for the low setting without having another piece of the circuit heat up instead.

plus the pads are better built on the non-resistor symtec setup.

[MattR302]

If you don't want to use the resistor, there's also a way to use a DPDT switch to switch them so they are either in parellel (high = 100% power) or in series (low = 25% power). I don't recall the wiring diagram, but I'm sure you could find it online.

[gamorg02]

If you don't want to use the resistor, there's also a way to use a DPDT switch to switch them so they are either in parellel (high = 100% power) or in series (low = 25% power). I don't recall the wiring diagram, but I'm sure you could find it online.

I already cut it off and just use on/off on the high setting.

[breakdirt916]

wait...I have the ones you posted...and the switch is what's a PITA for me...I don't like the size, the pins are exposed to the elements, and it's an awkward shape

how do you cut it off and use on/off on the high setting?

I'd be happy with a pre-wired automotive switch like this:

[gamorg02]

wait...I have the ones you posted...and the switch is what's a PITA for me...I don't like the size, the pins are exposed to the elements, and it's an awkward shape

how do you cut it off and use on/off on the high setting?

I'd be happy with a pre-wired automotive switch like this:

on the symtec ones i still use low-high as i found a small place on the vmax plastics that can hold it well.

on the 'tusk' ones i just cut out the low circuit out completely and put a waterproof on/off switch on the handlebars. It doesn't 'click' well with big gloves on so i need to find something better for next year.

pic:

[breakdirt916]

ok nvm...I'll figure out something for that darned switch

any idea what kind is it? SPST? DPDT? SPDT? DPST? XXXX? YYYY? WTFWTFWTF?

that one looks pretty snazzy though!

[duganc1717]

mine came with the cables and controller. Ted treated us well.

+1

[breakdirt916]

okay, retarded question - does the throttle heater element go between the plastic throttle thing, and the grip? or between the clip on and the plastic throttle thing?

finally did a quick and dirty install today...didn't have any JB weld and just slid the grip right on top...didn't have any automotive primary wire, so I just used what I had in the house...don't have the switch mounted (just hanging)...

but good news - it works!!

[Chippertheripper]

Tube and grip. Although I really want to tell you bar and tube just because that's almost dumber than anything that's been posted here in a while.
Alright, nevermind, there's been fucktons of asinine political garbage...

[breakdirt916]

pfft... you're just fussy because hands are just cold...go get those heated gloves already!

but that's what I thought...the instructions say "The Throttle side heater is installed on the throttle sleeve under the rubber cover."

first ride on "hi" they took a little while to heat up...so I though "meh, they're just lukewarm"...but on my return trip the clip ons were already warmed (?) so it got nice and toasty quickly

bike's electrical seemed to handle it just fine...under load turning it on showed no dimming; just slight dimming when idling

also installed an LED taillight flasher thingie today...add my Sena and I'm techie'd out...my oldie fzr is the ride of the future