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24 Days
Other than wire brushing and a dab of motor oil, what else do you guys do for rust on cylinder head exhaust studs & nuts? They came off easy enough, but would like to prevent any future trouble. TIA.
Last edited by Gecko; 03-31-14 at 08:25 AM.
John
CCS/LRRS Expert #69
LRRS Rookie of the Year 2004
"Speed has a kind of affinity for me, it's the time God and I have our little talks."
You can try some never seize but they are exposed to everything so its tough.
Or you could try something like this http://www.mcmaster.com/#rubber-end-caps/=rbz3ze
First time I've ever encountered rust like this on a bike. On the R6, they're studs that stick out from the cylinder head on which nuts screw onto. Not looking to re-do the studs now, maybe on a rebuild. Did some searching prior to posting and consensus seems to be to skip the anti-seize ... not sure why, maybe the high temp does something funky to that stuff? Just looking to arrest the rust for future easy on/off of the nuts.
John
CCS/LRRS Expert #69
LRRS Rookie of the Year 2004
"Speed has a kind of affinity for me, it's the time God and I have our little talks."
The only reason I can think of is you're putting a tacky coating on the bolt, it's in an area where it's going to collect crud. That combined with heat means you'll have a baked on mess to try and ram the nut over when you'll go to remove it down the line?
Electrical is pretty much all back in except for a couple plugs that go to parts I haven't put back on yet. Subframe is on, rear suspension needs to be torqued down but is in place. Rear wheel and head bearings replaced. Progress continues to be slow but it's moving along. Hitting a wall with the front wheel bearings though. No matter what I try I can't get the damn things out.
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For those not on Facebook, here's a sneak peak:
I got a lot done over the weekend. I mounted the plastics. It looks wicked! Thanks to Lee at Skid Mark Racing/Motorsports.
I switched tanks, which is SO much more of a PITA than on the SV, since the RSV's tank has the fuel pump inside of it. Thanks to Annalisa for giving me a hand and being patient with me.
I also swapped the stock clip-ons for a set of Woodcraft. I also did most of the stickers and replaced/installed heat shielding on both SV and RSV belly pans.
Not much left, except the chain & sprockets, replacing antifreeze with water/wetter, and an oil/filter change.
I can't wait until 5/12 to get this out on the track.
thanks, now I'm not worried about tech at all.
Tim
LRRS #44
Superbike Services 44
Last edited by timmyho414; 04-01-14 at 06:17 AM.
Tim
LRRS #44
Superbike Services 44
23 days
if you have a 2 digit number, it doesnt matter. the lower the number, the better.
i remember when a garagemate walked into tech with no helmet, flat rear tire, and nothing wired....passed tech.
yet the yellow plate bikes failed tech because our front numbers were 5.5" and not 6". or the "1" had the little tail up top and didnt look like "l"
LRRS Am #331
Graphic Tailor / Woodcraft / Armour Bodies / Suomy / Cycle Performance Autobody / Shorai / ChickenHawk Racing
^^^^^ that looks like a kid drew it with a crayon.
and there isn't.
Tim
LRRS #44
Superbike Services 44
LRRS/CCS Amateur #514 / RSP Racing / Woodcraft / MTAG Pirelli / Dyno Solutions / Tony's Track Days / Sport Bike Track Gear / 434racer / Brunetto T-Shirts / Knox / GMD Computrack
22 Days
- - - Updated - - -
and no not the lower the number the better anymore..... it used to be like that. past champions were allowed double digits and now anyone can get one