typeone's Beta build (250RR)

[TheIglu]

Why replace the o-rings on the exhaust? They all leak. Forever. Metal on metal. Just ride it. They all do it. Don't bother.


Said everyone here when I did the same thing, lol.

[Paul_E_D]

Well, you're no designer... lol

Why replace the o-rings on the exhaust? They all leak. Forever. Metal on metal. Just ride it. They all do it. Don't bother.


Said everyone here when I did the same thing, lol.

[R7]

You're not going to keep a bike clean looking and well cared for, if the exhaust is puking black goop everywhere. Everyone gave you horrible advice if they say don't bother changing them

[TheIglu]

Well, you're no designer... lol

Well that's obvious. Have you seen my yard?

ANARCHY!

[typeone]

i don't remember reading that advice (pipe o-rings) but yeah, fuck that noise. $9.99 for all 4 parts.

[typeone]

man in a brown truck stopped by.. .

[TheIglu]

I've got those. In a competition between a 4" sapling and your radiator, they win.

[typeone]

been waiting to pull the trigger for some time now. i regularly get stick pokes and both rads are starting to curve in a bit from dropping on rocks. Beta did a good job tucking things in but these will add a nice layer of protection. pretty psyched.

[Sideshow]

Cleans up nice.

[typeone]

status update for the log a few months into the season.. .

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SUSPENSION

as mentioned, i had the suspension revalved and refreshed by Rob at Motorworx. he set it up for woods with the occasional MX day. first test the bike felt super harsh up front and i couldn't keep it on the trail, lost all my tight cornering ability. tried a few clicks out on comp/reb but still harsh in the rocks, like real frustrating, but i was only trying one click at a time. the cornering i knew was a sag issue. to save time on a ride i added some more preload to the shock but didn't measure precisely, did this twice, still cornered like shite.

after a series of loose tests decided to really spend the time this past Saturday and ended up with compression at 18 and rebound at 14. Robs initial settings had me at 10/8. for the shock sag, i THINK static was around 45mm and race was def way over 100. dialed that back in to 28mm static and 94mm race. (my target is 96mm race.) totally new bike. felt so awesome in the rocks and cornering back to being sharp... kinda too sharp so i'm going to ease up on the sag (s30/r96) which should get the bike feeling great. i'll most likely go up another spring rate from 5.35 to 5.6 (or just under) to lessen the initial preload.

i still have more testing to do but i think i'm going to be impressed with the fork changes. they soaked up the rocks really well, so well that i started to notice the shock more while riding. i think once i dial the sag numbers a bit more and maybe take 1 click out of compression on the shock, the bike will feel fantastic.

one of my seals is leaking ever so slightly, hope that's just a spec of debris, i'm going to try a Seal Mate. never really believed in them but WTF. if that doesn't work, i'll replace the seals (Rob did not, said they looked good) and try a different oil from Spectro 5w.

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POWER

made some other changes over the winter that have been feeling great, but shit i think i hit the holy grail with the last few additions...

current setup looks like this:

- S3 high comp head, 0 - 6,000' insert
- thinner 0.3 base gasket
- fresh top end
- PC shorty silencer
- JD PV spring preload washer (PV in 1 turn)
- XTrainer power valve spacer
- 87-89 octane fuel
- 40:1 Amsoil Interceptor
- carb quad-flow torque wing
- same jetting as last season (38 pilot, leaner red needle, 165 main, A/S ~1.5 turns out)

bike has serious grunt and more pull down low. Saturday i rode most tech stuff in 2nd gear rather than 1st. there is definitely an added pull in the bottom > mid transition, feels so amazing. looking forward to testing back-to-back against a 300.

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TIRES

having a lot of trouble with the redesigned Motoz Tractionator Enduro. they updated the bead and sidewall design. i can't keep the fucking thing glued to the rim. keeps slipping no matter how tight i torque my rim lock. two of us are having the same issue, it's slipping on braking rather than accel.

bought a new Motion Pro larger rim lock to try out, hope that cures it but i think i will try a different rear soon. sucks because i've loved these tires for years now, ran it at 7psi last ride, think it stayed put, but same slip happend at 10psi as well. two rides ago it slipped so bad both the rim lock and valve stem were crooked.

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GUARDS

still need to install the new EE rad guards, keep forgetting i bought them. duh.

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CLUTCH

still need to install the oversized clutch slave from the 350RR once i grab the proper fluid.

--------
DRIVE

master link is getting worn down, think i might need a new chain guide. will upgrade to a TM.

[Paul_E_D]

The TM guides wear the plates and especially the master clips extremely fast.

[typeone]

The TM guides wear the plates and especially the master clips extremely fast.

fark! well that sucks. maybe i'll just go with OEM again + beefier brace (?) i've never had pin wear before but all of a sudden am seeing it only on the master. from almost new i switched to a narrow X-ring, which has been great, but the master wear is recent.

[typeone]

BTW, on the sag stuff... i picked up a Motion Pro Sag Scale II and spanner punch. you don't have to do this work frequently, but both tools are great, def recommend for the box.

[Chippertheripper]

The TM guides wear the plates and especially the master clips extremely fast.

they do. but even a clown like myself can accept that, as my horseys get a new chain annually, whether they need it or not (they do).

[typeone]

i had a TM on my Husky, always ran MX non-oring, and never had an issue.

i'll have to scope Chris' bike, i believe he has been running the same narrow x-ring + a TM guide for a season or so.

[Paul_E_D]

Maybe it is the TM plus the sand, but I could go through a clip in half a season.

[Sideshow]

Rivet that suckah

[Paul_E_D]

Rivet that suckah

With how fast my track eats chains, it's not worth the effort.

[typeone]

Why replace the o-rings on the exhaust? They all leak. Forever. Metal on metal. Just ride it. They all do it. Don't bother.

Said everyone here when I did the same thing, lol.

You're not going to keep a bike clean looking and well cared for, if the exhaust is puking black goop everywhere. Everyone gave you horrible advice if they say don't bother changing them

seems like the brand new FMF o-rings are wearing out already. i've read they are pretty shitty. going to try the KTM Viton o-rings next. little pricier but seem way tougher.

[Paul_E_D]

I think I have some leftover from my 2 strokin days if you want em...

[typeone]

I think I have some leftover from my 2 strokin days if you want em...

appreciate that. already clicked YOU BUY NOW but next time i see you i'll take them.

[Kurlon]

I should have an entire bag of oversized o-rings for KTMs from McMaster Carr somewhere...

[typeone]

thnx, Josh. i should be good for a while with the new set but noted!

[typeone]

X KYB SSS ... 2018 Sachs CC fork swap ... MXT dual cartridge system
X upper fork tube hardcoat
X fresh seals, bushings and fluid
X tstat delete
X trim harness to essentials only
X integrated start/kill switch
. check compression
X inspect clutch
X oversized clutch slave from the 350RR Racing model
X fresh rear disc + pads
X billet idle screw
X install EE rad guards
X attempt to fix pipe-to-frame contact (again)
X fresh grips
. repack silencer
X replace master link
X replace countershaft sprocket
X replace busted fork guard
X inspect / regrease as needed
X fresh fluids all around

[R7]

Pictures or it isn’t happening! I always enjoying seeing your posts of such perfection in maintainance.

Mine is stuffed in my basement for the winter, no plans to work on it.. lol